# Sagegrouse shells



## tjr (Jun 16, 2010)

What do you all use for shells when hunting sagegrouse? I have used 3" steel 4's and smaller lead, but don't seem to get the knock down power I want. Any suggestions? Thanks.


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## ram2h2o (Sep 11, 2007)

Use lead # 5 and #6's and don't have a problem. Use Hi-brass high power not the low brass stuff.


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## josh12ga (Nov 23, 2011)

I have Always used 5's lead with a 4 as my last shot.. never had many problems...


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## Bears Butt (Sep 12, 2007)

I have not hunted sage grouse in a lot of years, but we always used #4's or 5's as our go to loads. I likened shooting them as hitting helium balloons as they flew up. Big and slow.


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## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

In 12, 16, and 20 gauge I use #5 lead high-brass; same shells I use for pheasants.

In 28 and .410 gauge I use #6 lead high brass, but I'm changing to the spendy classic doubles shells in #4 and #6 this year.

We have a lot of sage grouse in Wyoming and this year is no exception.


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

Good suggestions so far. They aren't waterfowl, so I would ditch the steel, and go with lead. If you are insisting on using non-toxic shot, remember that to get equivalent mass to a lead pellet, stell pellets must be 2 sizes larger. So if you feel that your number 4 steel is inadequate, switch to size 2 or 1 instead. Or better yet, buy some HeviShot. It's expensive as hell, but has the density to compare to lead in a non-toxic load. Another thing to remember is that steel loads are faster than lead in general. You may be leading too much, and shooting in front of them. Chances are good that's what is happening if the birds you are shooting at are flushed inside 30 yards. A steel load of #4 shot is PLENTY to kill a boomer out to 40 yards if your dead on though. Put a bead dead on those buggers under 40 yards and they'll crumple just as dead as with lead.


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## Bret (Sep 7, 2007)

2 3/4 1+1/4 oz #4s 1500FPS copper coated lead federal premiums are my first choice. The same load in Prarrie storm will work too, but be sure you open up you choke. I hate the way that PS load patterns, too tight.


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## TAK (Sep 9, 2007)

wyogoob said:


> We have a lot of sage grouse in Wyoming and this year is no exception.


When is the season start? I have threatned to go many years but this year might be the year!


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## 90redryder (Oct 10, 2011)

I take it sage grouse are alot bigger than ruffed grouse... I shot a ruffed grouse with #6 and completely ruined all the meat, the only thing left was two wings and two legs.


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## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

TAK said:


> wyogoob said:
> 
> 
> > We have a lot of sage grouse in Wyoming and this year is no exception.
> ...


Starts September 15.


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## TAK (Sep 9, 2007)

wyogoob said:


> TAK said:
> 
> 
> > wyogoob said:
> ...


And I just happen to have a porch pass! BWHTR ???????


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## bwhntr (Sep 12, 2007)

Yes, but we can only kill 2 and still have nothing to eat.


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## bwhntr (Sep 12, 2007)

I vote we stick with our forest grouse plan.


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## TAK (Sep 9, 2007)

bwhntr said:


> I vote we stick with our forest grouse plan.


10-4!


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## gpskid (Jul 24, 2012)

Sage grouse are slow flyers, doesn't take much to take them down, a light load 5 or 6 shot lead is sufficient. I've hunted them for over 32 years now, back when you didn't need a permit and could kill 6 in two days in Utah.
My 8 year old grandson kilt his first with a 410 with a load of sixes, knocked it down out of the air, they are really not a strong bird, big, but not tough like some birds.










The toughest part is figuring out how to cook them...so u can eat them


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## Moostickles (Mar 11, 2010)

90redryder said:


> I take it sage grouse are alot bigger than ruffed grouse... I shot a ruffed grouse with #6 and completely ruined all the meat, the only thing left was two wings and two legs.


Shot size has nothing to do with meat damage like that. Sounds like you were too close when you shot it. It wouldn't have made a difference if you had #9 or 00-Buck on that bird, it would have looked the same.

Choosing a shot size is finding a balance between spread, pellet coverage, and energy/penetration at range.

For example, #7-1/2 or #8 is great on dove and quail because you get a spread with heavy pellet coverage (needed for small fast moving targets). And the birds aren't that big, so penetration isn't as important. If you take a shot at a dove using #2s (less pellets) there is a good chance the bird will fly through the pattern.

Now if you try to use #8 on a duck (steel of course) that is at the edge of your range (35-40 yards), you will definitely hit it, but chances are it will keep flying because the pellets didn't have the energy to penetrate deep enough to cause immediate damage.

Ok, I'll breath now... :mrgreen:

That being said, #5 or #6 is perfect for rufts. Another thing to keep in mind, if you use a smaller shot size, you will be picking more pellets out of your food at the dinner table.

Like I said, it's a balance...


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## TAK (Sep 9, 2007)

90redryder said:


> I take it sage grouse are alot bigger than ruffed grouse... I shot a ruffed grouse with #6 and completely ruined all the meat, the only thing left was two wings and two legs.


You are Choked to tight. I shot 6's at about everything... 4's Kansas Phez though. Even though 8's will kill chit, they put to many BB's in the bird.


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## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

I shoot #6 for all upland birds. Choke the gun at open or skeet, let the bird get out away from you, pull the trigger, go home with meat.


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