# Reloading questions



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

On this Sierra manual they list at the bottom an accuracy load and then a hunting load, what do they mean by the hunting load? http://accurateshooter.net/Downloads/sierra243win.pdf

I am loading some zmax and partition in 223 and as it is not a boat tail it is a little difficult to get it started, so when it goes up in to the die it sometimes cuts off a part of the tip; how do you keep them straight when they won't really go down into the brass at all? I have noticed now that I have an electric case prepper that the chamfer helps a little, but kind of hard to make consistent loads when half of the visible part of the tip is shaved off.

How many times do you guys use your brass? I spoke with a guy at the range who only buys Lapua since he says that he can use them up to 50 times and therefore worth the extra cost.

Thanks guys!


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## reb8600 (Sep 8, 2007)

I am not sure what the mean by hunting load. As for the accuracy load, your results will be different. Your dies should not be cutting off any of your bullet, I have never had that happen. What dies are you using? To get them to go in straight, you may have to hold them to the point of pinching your fingers. I have always used RCBS dies but am really staring to like the Hornady dies. It is easier to keep bullets straight. How many times you can reload your brass is going to depend on caliber, how hot you load them and how much they stretch in your chamber. Also depends on if you full length size or just neck size. I am not sure I believe someone is getting 50 times out of their brass.


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## BPturkeys (Sep 13, 2007)

As to the how many times can you reload a round of brass...brass always stretches with every shot so you need to check your overall length and trim as needed. Eventually all the metal will migrate you to the neck area. After you will have trimmed the brass a number of times it will get so thin it will start to split, normally down around the bass. Also, as brass is worked(stretched and re-sized), it hardens and will start to split, usually around the neck. To help prevent this you need to anneal the bass(maker it soft again). One way is to stand your brass up in a square cake pan with an inch or so of water in the bottom. Play a propane torch over the neck and shoulder area of the case until it is red hot, them just tip the case over in the water(quick cool). That will make the brass soft again.
PS...not recommend to do this procedure in your loading area...you know, open flame and all that.


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## sagebrush (Sep 8, 2007)

Hunting load is just that a hunting load. Not intended for target shooting. I have used the hunting load info and did get some pretty good accuracy with them. It will depend allot on you and you set up how welll they perform.


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## James (Oct 7, 2007)

> but kind of hard to make consistent loads when half of the visible part of the tip is shaved off.


Have you tried a different seating punch?


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## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

You need to chamfer it a bit more on the inside of the case, then carefully start the flat base bullet into that chamfer as you begin the seating step.

Really though, I dont think I use a single flat base bullet anymore in any caliber.


-DallanC


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## Al Hansen (Sep 7, 2007)

Use that RCBS neck reamer on the inside of the neck of the die. Just what the guys are sayin. A lot of the varmint bullets are flat base. V-max and Z-max's are flat base. Reaming the neck a bit really helps with the seating of the bullet. I agree with Reb. 50 loads ???? :shock: I guess you could if you did'nt use any powder and just shot rubber bullets. And again the guys are right depends on how "hot" you load them up.


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## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

I have RCBS fresh from the factory. I am not familiar with a neck reamer.


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## Bo0YaA (Sep 29, 2008)

I have a forster case trimmer and Ive been looking at one of these for multiple reasons including the perfect 14 degree chamfer to make loading flate base easier. http://www.brownells.com/reloading/case ... 72413.aspx


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## Huntoholic (Sep 17, 2008)

This is the way that I have always taken the accuracy versus hunting load.
Usually in a particular weight section, they will show a bunch of bullets for that weight. All different kinds of bullets. Accuracy refers to the best combination for what is listed. The best hunting load is based on only bullets used for hunting.


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## Al Hansen (Sep 7, 2007)

Huge29 said:


> I have RCBS fresh from the factory. I am not familiar with a neck reamer.


Neck reamer is probably the wrong word. I went and checked the little box it comes in.  It's called a "Deburring " tool.


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## BPturkeys (Sep 13, 2007)

A deburring/chamfering tool is a BASIC part of any reloading bench. Buy one and use it every time you trim. Properly chamfered brass will greatly increase the ease of inserting the bullet. I have used a RCBS tool for 40 years and it still works just great. All major brands of reloading equipment make one and they are all good. Cost around $15-$25. 
PS..I think I spent about $3 for mine...a long time ago


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## Bax* (Dec 14, 2008)

Huntoholic said:


> This is the way that I have always taken the accuracy versus hunting load.
> Usually in a particular weight section, they will show a bunch of bullets for that weight. All different kinds of bullets. Accuracy refers to the best combination for what is listed. The best hunting load is based on only bullets used for hunting.


Agreed. This is essentially how I understood / interpreted this as well


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## Frisco Pete (Sep 22, 2007)

As mentioned the brass case may have small burrs on both the inside and outside of the mouth and the bullet may not start in smooth. Use a deburring tool. Most deburring tools are double-ended, with a series of angled cutters, one set for the inside and another for the outside of the case mouth.

Insert the appropriate end into the case mouth and a quick twist of the wrist removes the burrs and lightly chamfers the inside of the case mouth for easier starting of the bullet. Turn the tool over and repeat the process with the outside of the case mouth.
Don't get too carried away - you don't want a knife edge on the case mouth. Just enough.

The Accuracy Load listed in the Sierra manual is the one they felt was the most uniform and accurate in their test barrel - NO REGARD for velocity is considered in the accuracy context.

The Hunting Load listed has other considerations. Most hunters are concerned about getting full velocity from their chosen cartridge because it both flattens trajectory making longer range hits easier and it increases terminal energy on game. This is why hunters buy Magnums, after all. If you will notice, in most cases (but not all) the Hunting Load is faster than the Accuracy Load. They look for a good _ballistic blend_ of speed and accuracy for this selection, knowing full well that minor reductions in accuracy are insignificant on big game due to the size of the vitals and the advantage that a slightly flatter trajectory may offer at hitting where you want at indeterminate ranges.

And keep in mind it is only a general GUIDE _not_ gospel. Your mileage may vary, so to speak.


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## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

Thanks guys! I do have the debur tool and even picked up the motorized Hornady version last week. On the larger calibers it is not an issue as even the non boat tails go in ok, but the 223 is really tight and difficult to get in there. I have noticed that I can get a better bevel on there with the motorized tool; just wondering if there was a secret I missed somewhere. Thanks for the help guys!


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## Bo0YaA (Sep 29, 2008)

I just ordered one of these. Cant wait to give it a try. After resizing 400 brass in one day and using the hand tool to debur them all I was over it lol.

http://www.forsterproducts.com/client_i ... UT-001.pdf

Here is is in action,


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