# I want the truth.........of reloading



## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

So I want to learn how to load my own rounds. I wish I shot alot more than I do. But realistically I probably wouldn't load more than about 200 or so a month on average. calibers I currently have...25-06, .270, 30-30, 45acp, 38/357mag, 9mm, 380 auto. So id like to know from those of you who do load and have for some time what you would recommend as far as gear, and more importantly why? I've done a bit of research myself but would like to see what you have to say before I share what I have concluded.

Thanks

Cheddar


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## Springville Shooter (Oct 15, 2010)

Spend the most money on your scale. I personally would recomment a digital/dispenser style. Accurate, consistent charging will make the most difference. Also, get a good chamfer and flash hole debur tool.-----SS


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## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

If you were only going to reload 200 rifle a month I'd say a single stage press would be fine... but once you start talking Pistol it would drive you NUTS to do that on a single stage.

IMO, a Lee classic turret will work great for your needs. Can be reasonably priced as well. Watch some video's on Youtube with people reloading using different presses to give you an idea of whats involved.

I tumble then resize and decap my rifle brass on a single stage, followed up by hand priming using a RCBS hand primer, then charge with powders thrown via a simple Lee Perfect measure into a pan on a balance beam scale, and trickle charge in the final few grains via a power trickler (frankford arsenal) to an exact amount. From there I seat bullets back on the single stage.

Pistol I just use the turret with a autodisk powder measure and primer feed. Can crank out 150-180 rounds an hour of pistol easy. I did 100 .223 on the Turret Sunday, it was a pleasant experience not having to swap dies so frequently.

Thats just me though. If I had money to burn I'd opt for a Dillan 550 for .223 or pistol.


-DallanC


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## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

I think seeing the equipment in action is the only way to go, so you can fully understand what the features mean. I don't like any of those that you listed, otherwise I would be glad to show you my setup. I use RCBS and a Hornady prep tool and Hornady auto scale. I am in Davis County.


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## longbow (Mar 31, 2009)

Mr.CheddarNut said:


> So I want to learn how to load my own rounds. I wish I shot alot more than I do. But realistically I probably wouldn't load more than about 200 or so a month on average. calibers I currently have...25-06, .270, 30-30, 45acp, 38/357mag, 9mm, 380 auto. So id like to know from those of you who do load and have for some time what you would recommend as far as gear, and more importantly why? I've done a bit of research myself but would like to see what you have to say before I share what I have concluded.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Cheddar


Reloading ain't cheap! Well, maybe it is, but you'll find yourself getting this bug in your head and you won't be able to stop. Soon you'll be keeping track of load data, fps, grains, temps and powders, blah, blah, blah. Someday I see your wife coming out to the garage to check on you and there you are sitting slumped over on a stool in front of your reloading bench, papers of data scattered about, a block of charged brass in front of you, calculator in hand, multiple reloading manuals open across your bench and several ammo boxes marked with precise loading data on the lid. She'll say, "Cheddy, what's wrong?" And slowly, with a tear in your eye, you'll raise your head and say, "after all this work, I can only get this Tikka T3 to shoot a half minute of angle! why God, why."
You're already circling the reloading drain. It's started to suck you in. HA!

Look on the bright side. You won't believe how much your shooting ability will improve.:grin:

That didn't answer your question much but misery love company.


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## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

"Cheddy, what's wrong?"....

That is hilarious!! Certainly a few things to consider. What are your opinions on some of the "starter" kits that companies put together? Lee Challenger kit? RCBS supreme master Kit? Hornady LNL etc. Better to buy individual pieces or are these a great value for the money but more importantly are the items included of good quality. In other words if one was to buy one of these kits would he then after initially using it be searching to replace components? Thanks guys.


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## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

oops..............one other thing. Since we all know money is always tight with everyone here is what I have found as far as kits. New...

Lee 50th anniversary reloading kit $138.38 

RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Kit $300.00 with $50 rebate

Hornady LNL Classic Kit $300.00 with 500 free bullets (of select calibers)

:shock:


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## fishreaper (Jan 2, 2014)

The lee challenger kit is what I started out with, but that is about the only lee product you should buy. They may sell the bare minimum, but they sell each individual part in other cases that is useless without two other individual parts, among other things. I particularly like hornady's custom die, especially the seating die, because you don't have to worry about aligning the bullet in the case, it does it for you. Just set it on top and rock. 

First time around, I'd recommend your least expensive rifle first, lest you make some mistakes that hurt the rifle's insides. 

There is so much more that can be said about reloading, but I'd end up writing a 10 page paper myself, and I'm only a little more skilled than a novice, I like to think.


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## coolspringoutfitters (Dec 30, 2013)

I'd take a good look at the Lyman T-Mag kit... I reload a bunch do different cartridges and it's nice to just switch off the turrets... I also use a power trickler... It's way accurate at throwing any load you want.


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## Fishrmn (Sep 14, 2007)

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25792/catid/1/BL_550_Basic_Loader

No sense buying a Lee, or RCBS, and ten years down the road wishing you could have a Dillon Progressive. Buy the Dillon Basic. Tool heads are interchangeable. If you want to upgrade to make it a progressive, you're already half way there.

⫸<{{{{{⦇°>


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## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

Mr.CheddarNut said:


> oops..............one other thing. Since we all know money is always tight with everyone here is what I have found as far as kits. New...
> 
> Lee 50th anniversary reloading kit $138.38
> 
> ...


Well like I said, with money to burn Dillon is king. However out of everything posted so far, I seriously think you will hate pistol reloading on a single stage press. IMO I'd recommend this as a starter kit to get the basics, then you can upgrade the weak links (better scale, maybe a hand primer etc etc):






IMO 200 rounds a month isn't alot, especially if you spread it out over the calibers you mention. As for cost... you probably wont be saving alot unless you opt for cheap components like plated bullets for pistol plinkers etc etc. What you do gain is always having ammunition even when stores are out, as well as better fine-tuning of said ammo.

-DallanC


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## Fishrmn (Sep 14, 2007)

$259.00 for the Dillon Basic. No auto prime, no auto powder measure. But you're already loading all stages simultaneously. I wouldn't consider anything else.

⫸<{{{{{⦇°>


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## Dodger (Oct 20, 2009)

+1 for the Dillon. I got the 650 a couple years ago, although I had some limited experience with a friend's 550 as a teenager.

I showed it to my brother in law who ran a single stage RCBS press. The next day he sold his RCBS and bought a 650.


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## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

DallanC 

Wow that seems like the way to go. To get into reloading at that price I dont think you can go wrong. Money is always an issue with me. Dillon seems to be the the most preferred but it seems to me id be in the $500+ range to get Dillon brand stuff? 
I am sure I will save some coin over the long run but I really would like to just learn how and put another skill in the toolbox if you will.


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## Dodger (Oct 20, 2009)

Mr.CheddarNut said:


> DallanC
> 
> Wow that seems like the way to go. To get into reloading at that price I dont think you can go wrong. Money is always an issue with me. Dillon seems to be the the most preferred but it seems to me id be in the $500+ range to get Dillon brand stuff?
> I am sure I will save some coin over the long run but I really would like to just learn how and put another skill in the toolbox if you will.


Dillons are more expensive but if you load over the long term, you'll be better off. Plus their warranty is amazing.

If you want to just learn the skills, learn it with someone else using their equipment.

I'm in SLC and I'd be happy to show you how to do it, if you want. Come over with some powder, primers, bullets, and brass and you can reload anything you want (that I have) with my machine so you get the hang of it. From your list, I've got 45 and 357.


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## BPturkeys (Sep 13, 2007)

Mr.CheddarNut said:


> DallanC
> 
> Wow that seems like the way to go. To get into reloading at that price I dont think you can go wrong. Money is always an issue with me. Dillon seems to be the the most preferred but it seems to me id be in the $500+ range to get Dillon brand stuff?
> I am sure I will save some coin over the long run *but I really would like to just learn how and put another skill in the toolbox if you will.*


Gee, why don't you just get on YouTube and watch a couple videos, I wouldn't spend any money on equipment. It's kind of like wantin to learn how to change a flat tire, once you done it a couple times, you know all that you need to know....right?


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## lifes short (Sep 11, 2013)

I think reloading means different things to different people. I enjoy sitting in front of the TV in the evenings and do different parts of the process. I wipe off every brass at the range as I shoot. In my semi autos I shoot 5 rounds pick up the brass wipe them off shoot 5 more and so on. Same thing with my rifles, inspect case, wipe each brass as I shoot. When I get home I trim to length, go sit in easy chair chamfer inside and out of case necks, lube and size the rifle casings, go sit in front of a ball game and wipe off the cases. Clean each primer pocket. Then in the tumbler they go. The next evening seperate the media and roll the cases around between two towels to clean up the tumbling dust, back in the easy chair to check for walnut in the flashholes. Load up the RCBS hand primer and while watching the news prime them up. Then for rifles the powder measure gets set a little light and dribble each load up to the correct weight. Unscrew the sizing die and screw the seating die in and seat the bullets.

The only difference for pistols is no lube, the flare die, and powder measure set for the load.

I guess my point is I enjoy the time I spend cranking on my old Rock Chucker it is not a chore. My buddy on the other hand hates sitting and reloading. So I guess different strokes.


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## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

BPturkeys said:


> Gee, why don't you just get on YouTube and watch a couple videos, I wouldn't spend any money on equipment. It's kind of like wantin to learn how to change a flat tire, once you done it a couple times, you know all that you need to know....right?


I disagree Turkey. I can change a tire as well as a slough of other items on a car, but im not a mechanic. I balance my own check book but Im not an accountant. Id like to learn how and really learn how well and experiment etc. Thats just how I am. Plus I feel there is no replacement for hands on experience.


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## Fishrmn (Sep 14, 2007)

Mr.CheddarNut said:


> DallanC
> 
> Wow that seems like the way to go. To get into reloading at that price I dont think you can go wrong. Money is always an issue with me. Dillon seems to be the the most preferred but it seems to me id be in the $500+ range to get Dillon brand stuff?
> I am sure I will save some coin over the long run but I really would like to just learn how and put another skill in the toolbox if you will.


Did you look at the Basic?

$259.00

⫸<{{{{{⦇°>


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## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

Fishrmn said:


> $259.00 for the Dillon Basic. No auto prime, no auto powder measure. But you're already loading all stages simultaneously. I wouldn't consider anything else.
> 
> ⫸<{{{{{⦇°>


So as far as cost what am I looking at for the other items neccesary?


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## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

Mr.CheddarNut said:


> So as far as cost what am I looking at for the other items neccesary?


Looks like: Scales, funnel, dies, shell holder, chamfering tool, neck brushes, lube tray (or spray), loading blocks, micrometer, powder thrower, primer tray, case length trimmer.

Optional but make your life easier: Tumbler, hand priming tool, primer pocket tool.

Probably forgetting something....

-DallanC


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## Dodger (Oct 20, 2009)

Mr.CheddarNut said:


> So as far as cost what am I looking at for the other items neccesary?


Some of that depends on which press you get.

I think Dillon's Square Deal loader is a better value than the basic loader. If you buy the Square Deal, the only other thing you need for the machine is a set of dies and you are ready to reload 1 caliber. If you buy a 357 machine, you buy the 357 dies and you are loading 357 that night. The Square Deal is $379.

I would say you should buy a scale as well. The Dillon scale is $70. The RCBS scale is probably much less.

Everything else you can make do without for handgun reloading. A $10 set of calipers from Harbor Freight would be a good extra.

Eventually you'll need a bunch of other things like tumblers, case trimmers, etc.


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## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

Oh! Most importantly, several GOOD reloading books!


-DallanC


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## Fishrmn (Sep 14, 2007)

Dodger said:


> I think Dillon's Square Deal loader is a better value than the basic loader. If you buy the Square Deal, the only other thing you need for the machine is a set of dies and you are ready to reload 1 caliber. If you buy a 357 machine, you buy the 357 dies and you are loading 357 that night. The Square Deal is $379.


Isn't it a WHOLE LOT harder to change dies and shell holders on the Square Deal?

⫸<{{{{{⦇°>


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## Dodger (Oct 20, 2009)

That's a fair point.

It does come with everything you need (except dies) to get started though. You'd be into a conversion and a die set with a new toolhead/powder measure another $200 if you went with the Basic Loader, just so you could load your first round. I don't think it comes with a conversion.

A 550/650 would be ideal, IMO.


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## Fishrmn (Sep 14, 2007)

I've got a 550B. Sold a 650. Wouldn't own another 650 if ya paid me. The Basic is a 550 without some of the automatic stuff. If you have a Basic, you can add all of the automatic stuff and turn it into a 550B. It just saves you a couple of hundred bucks to start. Changing calibers is a snap. If you don't want to buy another tool head, you can change dies on the one included.

The Square Deal is also basically a pistol caliber only deal. It won't load rifle calibers.

⫸<{{{{{⦇°>


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## fishreaper (Jan 2, 2014)

lifes short said:


> I think reloading means different things to different people...
> ...I guess my point is I enjoy the time I spend cranking on my old Rock Chucker it is not a chore. My buddy on the other hand hates sitting and reloading. So I guess different strokes.


I enjoy the time spent even on my little single stage press, but I'm certainly not shooting enough where time is ever limited between outings. I take pleasure in trimming it all, then resizing all of them, priming them off press, and charging them via powder thrower and weighing each charge by scale (triple beam balance kind of scale, came with the lee challenger. Kind of odd adjustments at first, but makes more sense later) Each component at a time just feels like the right process. It also keeps a relative novice like myself from making mistakes, with just one thing going on at a time.

Just my view on it.


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## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

So I have been watching videos on different equipment for a couple hours now. So many questions. It seems that a turret style set up is definitely for me. From what I can tell the Dillon seems to be the smoothest operating press. No wobble chatter etc. If I had the money I would simply just buy the best there is! Funny thing I noticed. The RCBS turret requires you to manually turn the turret with every pull of the handle. I think that would get old quick. For value it seems you just cant beet the Lee. What are the thoughts from those who know?


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## Frisco Pete (Sep 22, 2007)

My vote is for the DILLON BL550. 
I started with and have a single stage Rockchucker but going to the Dillon RL550 was a huge improvement when it came to loading pistol and other high volume rounds. They are smooth, they have a lifetime no-questions-asked warranty, they are the standard by which all others are judged.

When I started there was no Basic Loader version, just the progressive RL550, I have often used my RL550 like a single stage press. It is easy to do by just installing the die you want and leaving the powder measurer off etc. The press itself is based on a Rockchucker frame (a Rockchucker served as the prototype frame basis) so it has that strength. With the advent of Dillon's Basic Loader version, we now have an ideal platform for people like you who are new to reloading and have a mix of both rifle and high volume pistol rounds to reload. You can get it cheaper than a full progressive and use it like a turret OR a single stage, yet can go full RL550 with a few add ons down the road.
You don't have to buy a press and then buy another one (progressive) down the road when you realize that you are spending way to much time and motion loading the pistol stuff on the single. Therefore, unlike many of us, you are saving money by getting a more versatile press.



> I think Dillon's Square Deal loader is a better value than the basic loader. If you buy the Square Deal, the only other thing you need for the machine is a set of dies and you are ready to reload 1 caliber. If you buy a 357 machine, you buy the 357 dies and you are loading 357 that night. The Square Deal is $379.


The Square Deal is not a better deal than the BASIC LOADER because it ONLY loads pistol rounds specified, and can't load your "25-06, .270, 30-30" rifle rounds. In addition I believe the dies it uses are _specific only _to the Square Deal and are NOT the universal threaded dies that you use in the 550 series and every other press made by all manufacturers. In some ways the SqDl is a dead end.

Any reloading companies dies, rifle or pistol, can be used in a 550 - though I think Dillon pistol dies are the best for that purpose, though I do use RCBS in a couple of pistol calibers.


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## Dodger (Oct 20, 2009)

^^^ What he said.

I didn't mean to imply that the Square Deal isn't without issues. I think you get more for your money for the initial purchase but, it has limitations.

I said the 550/650 is what I would go with, if $ wasn't an important factor.r

And why all the disdain for the 650? The auto-indexing? The priming system? What? I love mine.


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## Fishrmn (Sep 14, 2007)

Yup. Couldn't get used to auto indexing. I wish the Basic had been available 40 years ago. Might have saved a lot of money.

⫸<{{{{{⦇°>


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## Dodger (Oct 20, 2009)

Makes sense. I've found I make better bullets when I'm doing the exact same thing every time. Switching from auto-indexing to one that doesn't would probably mess me up too.


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## Frisco Pete (Sep 22, 2007)

With auto-indexing, instead of using your thumb _ala_ 550, I think it would be harder to correct mistakes and go back. Every pull of the handle advances things, whereas with the 550 it only advances when you want it to, so you have better control.

Not to say that once a 650 is set up and you are just running thru the loading it doesn't work terrific, but if you have one of those "_Did I..._" moments, then the control you have with the 550 is appreciated, especially if the answer is "_Yup, I sure did_  "


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## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

So say I buy the 550B. What auxillary equiptment would be recomended? Like what scale, case prep tool, book etc...

Cheddar


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## Frisco Pete (Sep 22, 2007)

Most everybody makes a decent beam scale. Most people I know have an RCBS (mine is a 5-10) which are made by Ohaus.

Electronic scales can be tricky and some cheap ones are not to be trusted. Handy but not beam-reliable.

Really this goes fo most reloading equipment like case trimmers or case prep stations, or or case chamfer tools. Basically all brands are decent - RCBS, Lyman, Redding, Hornady, etc.

The ABCs of Reloading is supposed to be a good book to start with. I really like the Speer manual, then the Hornady, and the Lyman, followed by Sierra and Nosler. I have them all to refer to. We had a thread on manuals earlier on this forum that you probably should look at.

I prefer Dillon pistol dies, as mentioned, and (anymore) Redding rifle dies. Most of my rifle dies are RCBS and work just fine. Like other items, die quality is fairly close. Lee has some unusual dies that are both a good deal and work well. These are their Lee Factory Crimp die (for your 30-30) and their Dead Length bullet seat die for rifles is very good at seating bullets straight, but most seat dies are just fine. If for some reason you neck size only, the Lee Collet neck size die is tops.

For rifle hunting rounds I use standard full-length sizing dies and set them to partial full-length resize. I don't want to take the chance of a neck sized only case sticking or not chambering during a hunt.


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## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

Thanks Pete, clearly I have a lot to learn ahead of me but I am getting pretty excited about it. I forgot to mention earlier that I have a buddy who wants to go in halfies on the equiptment. I think its a good idea and will save some coin


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## Dodger (Oct 20, 2009)

Mr.CheddarNut said:


> Thanks Pete, clearly I have a lot to learn ahead of me but I am getting pretty excited about it. I forgot to mention earlier that I have a buddy who wants to go in halfies on the equiptment. I think its a good idea and will save some coin


Do you and your buddy have a lot of the same calibers you want to load? That would help a lot.

If you got the 550, you'd need a set of dies for the conversion you select when you get your machine (Machines come set up to handle brass for a particular caliber but you have to supply the dies that resize/charge the bras and seat and crimp the bullet for that caliber). So if you get your machine set up for 357, you have to buy some 357 dies in order to reload.

The only other musts are a scale and a load book to load safely. (I like the caliber specific load books that have all the recommended loads from all the manufacturers for a particular caliber). But if you went for a big manual with everything, that works too. A set of calipers would be good if you want to reload a non-revolver cartridge.

The machine is $439. http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/23594/catid/1/RL_550B

The dies from Dillon are about $65. Another $50 for an RCBS scale.

Then, brass, powder, primers, and bullets and you're reloading.

For every new caliber you want to load, you'll need to get a Dillon conversion for that caliber ($70), new dies ($65), and (optionally but recommended) a quick change so you can keep everything set the way you like it ($103) http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/23602/catid/2/RL_550B_Deluxe_Quick_Change_Assembly


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## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

Dodger said:


> Do you and your buddy have a lot of the same calibers you want to load? That would help a lot.
> 
> If you got the 550, you'd need a set of dies for the conversion you select when you get your machine (Machines come set up to handle brass for a particular caliber but you have to supply the dies that resize/charge the bras and seat and crimp the bullet for that caliber). So if you get your machine set up for 357, you have to buy some 357 dies in order to reload.
> 
> ...


So I understand a different set of dies for each caliber... but are you saying that im looking at an additional $70 for a conversion kit plus $103 for a quick change deal essentially, $230 or so for each caliber to keep it simple?? :sad: I presume the quick change is the plate to keep all dies on one thing so you dont have to screw them out??


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## Dodger (Oct 20, 2009)

Mr.CheddarNut said:


> So I understand a different set of dies for each caliber... but are you saying that im looking at an additional $70 for a conversion kit plus $103 for a quick change deal essentially, $230 or so for each caliber to keep it simple?? :sad: I presume the quick change is the plate to keep all dies on one thing so you dont have to screw them out??


Yes, you need a conversion kit for each caliber And, to keep it simple, you need a quick change for each caliber. The quick change includes a tool head that you screw the dies into, a powder measure, and a powder die.

Having a quick change for each caliber means that you can switch loading caliber to caliber reloading in about 10 minutes. You don't have to use a quick change, you can screw your dies in and out each time you want to change calibers. But then you'll end up with a few rounds each time that you probably have to pull apart because they aren't loaded right while you are tweaking the dies to be sitting in the right position.

If you have the quick change and want to load the same bullet, you install the right conversion on the machine, pop in your quick change and tool head, and you are ready to go.


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## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

Well my buddy only has one of the same calibers as me.


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## Dodger (Oct 20, 2009)

Too bad. But that's a lot of caliber changing too. 

You can also work into reloading slowly. Pick the top calibers you shoot and get dies/conversions/quick changes. 

I still need to get setups for 30-30 and 44 and it's been over a year since I got my machine.


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## Frisco Pete (Sep 22, 2007)

.25-06, .270, & .45 ACP all take the same shell plate and locating pins. That saves caliber conversion money.

Here is a chart of caliber crossovers for the Dillon from Brian Enos:
http://brianenos.com/pages/dillon/cal.conv.chart.html

You don't need a separate powder measure or even separate tool head for each caliber. The more you have the nicer it is, especially for calibers you load a lot, because the tool head is then pre-adjusted - however with the die lock ring locked in place from the original adjustment session. So you just screw them into the free/empty tool head. Some die lock rings don't lock the ring to the die, just to the tool head. If you have that type (Dillon & Lee for example) they can be changed out easily for locking rings that lock to the die from Redding and RCBS. They can be ordered separately and are cheap.

Of course the powder measure will need adjustment from caliber to caliber or load to load. As mentioned, its nice have pre-adjusted powder measures, but expensive. I have added powder measures etc. over the years in order to have a caliber-dedicated tool head pre-set, but it isn't necessary, just convenient.


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## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

I appreciate all the input from everyone and after careful consideration based off of a couple of factors I have decided to go with the Lee Classic Turret press kit. I am ordering it tonight along with a tumbler, corn cob media and walnut media. Does anyone have any recomendations as to any other must haves to get started that I should order (other than dies)???
Thanks again
Cheddar


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## HotWapities (Aug 26, 2010)

I would definitly get a case trimmer. Brass grows as you reuse it. You should keep it trimmed up from loading to loading.


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## Bax* (Dec 14, 2008)

Mr.CheddarNut said:


> I appreciate all the input from everyone and after careful consideration based off of a couple of factors I have decided to go with the Lee Classic Turret press kit. I am ordering it tonight along with a tumbler, corn cob media and walnut media. Does anyone have any recomendations as to any other must haves to get started that I should order (other than dies)???
> Thanks again
> Cheddar


I am lazy and dont want to look back through the thread so if I am repeating myself or someone, just ignore this post.

I agree with HotWapities that you will want a case trimmer.

Additionally, make sure you have calipers. You want to be sure you dont seat bullets too deep, or trim your cases too short. This is a very important investment.

I personally like having a trickler for extruded powders to get my loads precise. Some guys will tell you this isnt necessary, but I personally like having one.

A case prep center is pretty handy as well as it allows you to clean the flash holes, de-bur, and chamfer quickly. This tool isnt necessary, but does move the process along quickly.

Good music is also important while reloading. Hiding in your shop for a couple hours is good for the soul and lets you listen to some tunes that you forgot about.

Have fun!


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## fastcamo (Aug 27, 2012)

I've have most all the loaders, Dillion/RCBS etc, I personally prefer the Lee Classic Turret press, very cheap to set up for each caliber, quick and easy. I push 180 rounds an hour with it. Each pistol and some rifle set ups have there own preset powder drops, because it was cheap enough to go that route, so every turret head is ready to go. I also use the RCBS chargemaster, and other scale for my long range and big caliber hunting loads, so each powder charge is exactly the same, just leave the powder drop out of the turret on those calibers and use a funnel and do each one by hand.


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## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

If you like the lee turret and reload rifle, this thing is cool:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEE-Perfect...928?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257b57ca40

-DallanC


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## Fishhuntthendie (Feb 27, 2014)

Just my two bits...and I shoot a lot of rifle (reloaded 130 rounds last night for this weekend)--mostly long range stuff....free handgun ammo..so I don't reload pistols but I shoot a lot of pistol as well...

1. Must have a case trimmer (brass stretches and necks need to be trimmed or you wont be able to reuse your brass after a few reloads). I trim after every 2-3 reloads depending on caliber and neck stretch.
2. Case prep center will save you a ton of time if you end up doing much reloading. Not necessary if you are just doing hobby reloading and you can use hand tools but if you get addicted to it like most of us reloaders, you will want a case prep center. I wish I would have bought one right off the bat but money was tight 20 years ago. I consider it one of the best investments I have made for my reloading bench and you can usually get a decent one for around $100. I believe mine is a Lyman but there are several models available that all pretty much do the same thing.
3. Good quality electronic scale (I use the RCBS Chargemaster and I love it). If you really want to get into accuracy/long range shooting...or accurate rifle loads...this is a huge help. I used a balance scale and powder trickler for many years...and it will work...but it is slow. I can usually seat a bullet and have a powder charge done for the next round. This will speed up your reloading by 2X and increase your accuracy/consistency in your ammo quite a bit.
4. Single stage press of your choice...but make sure to get good quality dies. They do make a difference, particularly if you get into VLD type bullets, etc.

Be advised that reloading and tweaking handloads to squeeze the most accuracy out of your rifles is very fun...but also addicting. My wife was giving me a hard time because I was priming cases last night in the family room while watching the NCAA Tourney games. Combining two of my favorite hobbies at the same time...hoops and reloading.


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