# Reloading



## 90redryder (Oct 10, 2011)

I love to hunt and go shooting, and in order to be able to go shooting more I need to learn to reload because it gets pricey buying shells everytime I go shooting. Can anyone give me an estimate on how much it costs to get all the needed supplies? Also, whats the best way to learn books, dvds or just talking to people that already do it?


----------



## DeadI (Sep 12, 2007)

You can get into a kit for a few hundred. It comes with a book, but if you have some one to show you the ropes a bit it sure helps. I have been learning this year, my dad has done all of our reloading in the past but this year I figured what the heck if he has all the equipment I might as well learn how to do it so I can develope my on load for my rifle. It really isn't that hard to do.


----------



## Springville Shooter (Oct 15, 2010)

I would strongly suggest that you have a mentor as you start reloading. Not essential, but it will help you alot and you could avoid something that could possibly be dangerous. When I first started loading, I set my seating die incorrectly and was crimping the bullets too tightly into the case. When my mentor noticed this, we tried to pull some of the bullets and were unable to get them out without a special pulling die. Who knows if these loads would have built too much pressure due to my mistake. He was then able to teach me how to correctly adjust my die for seating. Also, use the heck out of this forum. I know there are no less than 50 expert handloaders that are on here who are a great resource. I will offer any of my knowlege/experience to anyone who wants to start loading.--------SS


----------



## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

Rifle? Shotgun? Caliber? Cost varies quite a bit between reloading a 9mm lugar and 12GA 3.5" Steel Shot.


-DallanC


----------



## Narient (Jan 9, 2011)

Midwayusa sells a Lee setup for around $100 that I like very much. I highly recommend it.

http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/622290 ... deluxe-kit

I had to liquidate mine last year, but will be getting another. I preferred not utilizing the auto index and just rotating the dies by hand after I'd used one die on all of the reloads. For several calibers, I also have some decent reloading data I'd be happy to share.

As for the cost of the other supplies, it's been a while for me, but my .44's and .223's cost almost the same to reload.


----------



## James (Oct 7, 2007)

A good manual is the first order of business. The manuals have "How To" instructions.
A mentor would be great too. 
It is very likely that you can find a lot of what you need to get started on EBay. (If you are inclined to go that route)

Just a for instance, I have found that if I am buying bullets, I can reload for about half what factory ammo costs. That is considering using used brass. If buying new brass it will cost more the first loading. 

I cast my own lead bullets for handguns and shooting costs much less doing that. Of course, then you have more tools to buy. 

Yes, the tools cost some up front, but pretty soon you will be shooting more and possibly more accurate ammo. After you have loaded for several years the cost of the tools doesn't even matter. I have paid for the tools many times over in savings on ammo. 

For a barebones setup you will need a press, shell holder, scale, dies for the calibers you will reload, and a reamer. Some presses come with a priming arm for priming, or you can get a hand priming tool. A powder measure is a good investment too. Then you will need powder, primers and bullets. 

How much will all this cost? Depends some on the brands you go with and how you shop. I would think you can get started for around $200.


----------



## Bax* (Dec 14, 2008)

Lots of good advise here. One point I would make is that reloading makes you spend more money than you did before. Once you start realizing the savings per round, you feel like shooting a little more and then a little more, and suddenly you are spending twice as much per outing. BUT you are shooting substantially more each time so you get more enjoyment out of it as well.

I have a Rock Chucker Supreme and really like it. I bought the whole kit a couple of years ago for about $300 + reloading dies and shell holders. I think my initial investment was around $500 with powder, primers, and bullets included. But it was great to have a hobby on those cold winter days where you didnt feel like going out.

Also, I might suggest buying a bullet puller as well. Its nice to have for the "oops" times


----------



## magpie (Aug 15, 2011)

Books in this order:

1. The ABC's of Reloading.

2. Lyman Reloading Manual.

3. Choose from the following: Nosler, Hornady, Sierra, Speer, etc.(depending on the bullet(s) you want to reload).


----------



## 90redryder (Oct 10, 2011)

Thanks guys all those posts were very helpful. I am in no position to buy all the equipment right now, but you will probably see more posts from me once I get started reloading.


----------



## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

My advice. Do not skimp on the press, do not skimp on the scales. Other things you can get away with cheaper solutions but quality Press and Scales will save you alot of heartache down the road.


-DallanC


----------



## Springville Shooter (Oct 15, 2010)

Amen to what dallan said. If you are going to cheap out on the scale, then I would advise that you forego reloading all together. There is simply no point in going through the trouble of handloading rifle cartridges if you don't weigh your powder charges accurately and consistently.---------SS


----------



## Mojo1 (Sep 8, 2007)

Get yourself a RCBS Rockchucker kit, they run less than $300 It will have all you need get you started less the dies,cases, primers, bullets and powder. 

You might want to get someone to walk you thru the first time.


----------



## stick_man (Sep 10, 2007)

PM sent to you. I am in PG as well and wouldn't mind helping out a new reloader as time permits. What caliber(s) are you talking of reloading?


----------



## bullsnot (Aug 10, 2010)

Springville Shooter said:


> Amen to what dallan said. If you are going to cheap out on the scale, then I would advise that you forego reloading all together. There is simply no point in going through the trouble of handloading rifle cartridges if you don't weigh your powder charges accurately and consistently.---------SS


Just curious but what is a would be an accurate scale and what would be considered not to be? I am just using a Lee Safety Powder scale like the one in the link below. I use a powder measure to get close and then weigh every single charge and fine tune with a trickler. Now this is a very slow process but I figured it was accurate and would ultimately improve the accuracy of my rounds. The shooting tests seem to support that but just wondering if there is more to be had.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shooting ... t104661180


----------



## Critter (Mar 20, 2010)

A beam scale such as that Lee scale has weighed millions upon millions of rounds with no problems. You don't need a digital scale to be a safe and accurate reloader but a set of scale calibration weights can come in quite handy at times.


----------



## Moostickles (Mar 11, 2010)

When you get into it a little more, look into the Lyman 1200 DPS (Cabela's Item: IK-214950). It is a bit pricey, but saves a ton of time if you like to measure your powder for every single load. It will automatically pour and measure the powder for you each time you set the tray down.


----------



## James (Oct 7, 2007)

I have two scales. Both beam scales. One is an oil dampened scale by Webster. It was my first scale. The other is a magnetic dampened scale by Ohaus. The two always agree. They have been around quite a while and I see no reason they wouldn't last for my kids and grandkids as long as they don't get dropped off the bench. No batteries needed. The accuracy is machined into the beam. It is not ever going to change. I think I prefer these over a digital scale. 

Years ago I bought a Lyman 55 powder measure. It has been a time saver and throws powder charges close enough for me. I just weigh about every tenth charge as a safety check after getting it set up. On most powders it will be within .1 grain. On some rifle powders it may be off .2, but I have not ever been able to tell that the .1 or .2 grain made any difference in performance. Its a darned small part of the 46-50 grain charge for a rifle load. You can weigh every load if you wish, but I have never found it to be necessary nor even desirable.


----------

