# New Bow



## CPAjeff (Dec 20, 2014)

Another one of these threads . . . sorry.

So I am in the market for a new bow. I dabbled in archery a few years ago, but never really took the time to understand the intricacies of what sets certain bows apart from each other.

My plans:
1. Shoot as often as possible - nightly. I have the room to shoot out to 70 or 80 yards. 
2. Shoot during the winter and throughout the year at different 3D shoots and other events.
3. Hunt elk in a limited entry unit, learn the unit and then draw an archery tag in the future.


With all of that being said, what really sets bows apart? For example, I stopped at Wilde Arrow the other day and shot the Hoyt Powermax and another Hoyt, which I can't remember the name of it now... and both seemed identical. What difference in noticeable performance does the entry level bow have to the top-of-the-line bow?


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## kdog (May 4, 2015)

CPAjeff said:


> Another one of these threads . . . sorry.
> 
> So I am in the market for a new bow. I dabbled in archery a few years ago, but never really took the time to understand the intricacies of what sets certain bows apart from each other.
> 
> ...


If you are new to archery it will be difficult to tell, (given that you have shot some, I would try different brands, looking for the one that feels right in the grip and draws well) especially if you only tried hoyts. I can tell you there is a very different feel, especially from brand to brand. but again that will be hard if you have not shot much.

I will also say that the difference between a 1500.00 bow and an 800 bow is not going to be all that significant. For me I have bought most of my bows as a last years model, used etc. and reaped significant savings. I am still in love with my 2012 elite answer and my hoyt carbon spider. the elite was used at 350 bucks and looks and shoots great, the hoyt was new but last years model and got that for 500 bucks. In both cases, since I am left handed I bought them sight unseen and they worked. I had a hoyt CRX that did not work out, I sold that and bought the elite, as an example, if you are right handed you can try a lot of bows and see what works. I would by a mid range bow, shoot it a lot and then after a while you will start to see what you like and don't like and can then better test bows from there.

Most of the main brands all make great bows, it is hard to go wrong.


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## RandomElk16 (Sep 17, 2013)

I don't have a great answer for you that will fit so many differences in one post. There is a whole bunch of mumbo jumbo that you will start caring about down the road (or won't) but find a bow that fits you, your budget, and feels comfortable. People did fine with their M70 and 700 30-06 with a 3-9 Bushnell.... but here we are with engraved turrets on 6.5's and crap, while uncle bob still kills stuff with his 40 year old setup still. 

Hunters are tech geeks in our own way. 

Most important features? That it fits your draw length and poundage requirements. 


The Powermax is a great bow! So was the Charger. It will kill stuff just fine! But as you shoot more you may start becoming a tech nerd. 

For your first bow I wouldn't overthink it. Buy a main brand from a pro-shop, and buy something comfortable. It won't fail you- and if you decide it will resell better. I personally would go to more than one shop so you can try different brands AND different salesmen/shops. One will have you comfortably walking out of the door with your purchase.


EDIT: If you are not archery hunting this year, and buying a flagship (anything above a cheap PSE or the powermax), wait a couple months. All the new bows drop and old ones go on clearance


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## High Desert Elk (Aug 21, 2012)

The Powermax is a great bow to start with and will serve you well years into the future. The difference between it and a "flagship" is well, I'm not sure other than the wow factor and tunable yokes maybe.

I have shot "flagship" bows for a few years now and when the one I currently shoot grows old and retires, I will not get another one. I will simplify to something in the Powermax world. I do have a mid tier bow, however, that is hardly ever shot, so I may just simplify to that.

For starting out, smooth draw and comfortable valley which means stay away from speed bows.


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## RandomElk16 (Sep 17, 2013)

High Desert Elk said:


> The Powermax is a great bow to start with and will serve you well years into the future. The difference between it and a "flagship" is well, I'm not sure other than the wow factor and tunable yokes maybe.
> 
> I have shot "flagship" bows for a few years now and when the one I currently shoot grows old and retires, I will not get another one. I will simplify to something in the Powermax world. I do have a mid tier bow, however, that is hardly ever shot, so I may just simplify to that.
> 
> For starting out, smooth draw and comfortable valley which means stay away from speed bows.


HDE - I mean, the Powermax will get it done and is a nice bow. I wouldn't simplify what a higher end riser and cams do to "wow" factor though. I'll agree that it's a preference not a necessity though. (Like I said earlier about where we went with rifles now days, necessity vs preference)

Jeff I text ya earlier, but one piece of advise I would give to anyone reading this - I would stray from the Fuse package. It will work fine for a bit, but you will inevitably want to upgrade most things. I am always happy to help people budget shop accessories.


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## High Desert Elk (Aug 21, 2012)

RandomElk16 said:


> HDE - I mean, the Powermax will get it done and is a nice bow. I wouldn't simplify what a higher end riser and cams do to "wow" factor though. I'll agree that it's a preference not a necessity though. (Like I said earlier about where we went with rifles now days, necessity vs preference)
> 
> Jeff I text ya earlier, but one piece of advise I would give to anyone reading this - I would stray from the Fuse package. It will work fine for a bit, but you will inevitably want to upgrade most things. I am always happy to help people budget shop accessories.


The wow factor I refer to is carbon vs aluminum risers. I am not convinced there is a comparative advantage of carbon over aluminum for what is marketed.

Length of valley and as little "hump and dump" as possible is what sells me a bow.


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## middlefork (Nov 2, 2008)

Being left handed I have hade a limited ability to try a bunch of bows. But I firmly believe that you an tell a difference between brands. The secret is to try and find bows with similar features and find the one that feels the best.

Top of the line bows may feel more twitchy than people who don't shoot a lot feel comfortable with.

Have fun!


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## KineKilla (Jan 28, 2011)

Get the one that feels the best in your hand and throughout the shot process. It’s fine to get a mid or even a low cost range bow and use the saved $ for better sights, arrows and accessories.


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## waspocrew (Nov 26, 2011)

Agree with what's been said - might be worth waiting a little while and you'll see prices drop on the flagship models. I jumped into archery this year and after shooting several bows, I was very happy with the Mathews Halon 32. Once you try out a few, you may start to see differences: draw cycle, vibration, noise, etc. 

6 more weeks and I'm heading to WY to chase elk and deer with it.


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## APD (Nov 16, 2008)

i'll give you some contradictory advice here so pick what works for you.

i got back into archery in 2013 after a 15 year hiatus. i learned several lessons. you are likely looking for a bow that is accurate and comfortable to shoot. accuracy comes from good balance, right draw length and the correct grip for you. a stabilizer can usually fix balance issues. for draw length i'd suggest staying away from cam specific draw length bows. it's cheaper to adjust it yourself and find what is right after practicing for a bit that it is to go to the shop and buy more cams or mods. do your own research here but bear and bowtech fit this description (fwiw, i don't own either). as for grips, shoot some bows and see what is repeatable for you. do yourself a favor and find good form before developing bad habits. 

a mid range bow will likely suit your needs but don't buy a package. i've had a mission bow that has been a very good value that i purchased new. find components that work for your needs. (ie. single pin slider/multi pin sight, limb/cable driven/whisker biscuit, one or two piece quiver, etc. ask if you have questions. 

a one or two year old bow that is setup with quality components and used is a good value. it's not like buying guns. a bow holds value similar to a boat. look on archery talk for some deals. it's a benefit if the bow you buy is well supported by dealers in your area. think parts and warranty.

learn to tune your bow and find a good string maker so you don't chase a twisting peep all the time. 

back to your original question, flagship bows are typically fast, vibration free and expensive. they can be less forgiving of bad form than their slower, taller brace height counterparts. 

oh yeah, think about axle to axle measurement as well. a longer ATA is usually thought of as better for target and accuracy. i've used 28"-35" bows and both have worked well for distance shooting. shorter carries better in the woods for me. 

i;m a bit tired an rambling. hope this helped a little.


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## RandomElk16 (Sep 17, 2013)

High Desert Elk said:


> The wow factor I refer to is carbon vs aluminum risers. I am not convinced there is a comparative advantage of carbon over aluminum for what is marketed.


I told Jeff that the flat brim Hoyt Carbon push isn't warranted. It's not light and the RX1 was full of hand shock. RX3 is a little better.

But if you shoot a PSE carbon - you can tell the difference.

Why do we get carbon on other things? Light, rigid, and dampens vibration. The reason high end bikes are carbon, and same reason bows are. There is an advantage for sure.

*BUT* - I don't think carbon is a necessity at all. I shoot aluminum because carbon isn't worth $500-$800 dollars, you are correct.


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## bow_dude (Aug 20, 2009)

Here is my suggestion from the for what its worth department. Go do some shopping, trying out a bunch of different bows. Pickup something inexpensive but good and reliable. Join a 3-d league this winter and get to know the participants. I shoot in the Wednesday Night league at Salt Lake Archery beginning in November. We will shoot till about mid April. You can pick up a lot of tips (and bad habits) from everyone. Best of all, you will have a lot of fun. By the end of the league, you will likely have a good idea of what you want to change, if anything. You will also make a lot of friends. Bow hunters like sharing ideas, tips and tricks. Me and my partner will be running the Wednesday Night League at SL Archery this year. Come with the idea of bending or breaking a few arrows and make sure you have a good sense of humor. Most of all, don't take it seriously and you will not only have a lot of fun, but you will learn a lot.


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## High Desert Elk (Aug 21, 2012)

RandomElk16 said:


> I told Jeff that the flat brim Hoyt Carbon push isn't warranted. It's not light and the RX1 was full of hand shock. RX3 is a little better.
> 
> But if you shoot a PSE carbon - you can tell the difference.
> 
> ...


My feelings as well. Also, IF I ever got another carbon it would be PSE.


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## Hoopermat (Dec 17, 2010)

Don’t just shoot 2. Go shoot as many bows as you can. 
As for picking one. 
Everyone is different. But I always pick the one I shoot the best and feels the is the best fit. 
I have yet to buy the same brand. 
I would also go somewhere that will really Work With you on fit and correct technique. 
Lance at top of Utah in Logan is really good and will take time to get you fit correctly.


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## Aznative (May 25, 2018)

I agree with shoot as many as you can. I bought a bow couple years back. Went in thinking Hoyt or Matthews but walked out with a Bowtech Reign. To me it was just the smoothest bow I shot. But everyone is different. Id also look in the shops as tons of guys will trade a bow in every year its nuts to me but you can get a one year used bow for alot cheaper and then put money into good sites, rest and a nice set of arrows and target. Also dont skimp on a release. Check out that spot hog wrist release. Yes purple but sweet. Myself I went with a hand release even for hunting. It took several months to master but it makes you way more disciplined in my eyes.


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## RandomElk16 (Sep 17, 2013)

Aznative said:


> I agree with shoot as many as you can. I bought a bow couple years back. Went in thinking Hoyt or Matthews but walked out with a Bowtech Reign. To me it was just the smoothest bow I shot. But everyone is different. Id also look in the shops as tons of guys will trade a bow in every year its nuts to me but you can get a one year used bow for alot cheaper and then put money into good sites, rest and a nice set of arrows and target. Also dont skimp on a release. Check out that spot hog wrist release. Yes purple but sweet. Myself I went with a hand release even for hunting. It took several months to master but it makes you way more disciplined in my eyes.


I shot a cheap release all the way until this year lol. It was nice to treat myself.

I am the opposite thought as you because a hand (thumb) release does make you think and help with target archery and 12 ringers.. but when hunting I want everything to be able to be fast and repeatable. You can learn all the same motions you would with a hand, and I like that the index finger has the most dexterity as well as not twisting your arm to that unnatural position.

The point of this isn't to disagree- it's to point out what AZ said early: "everyone is different". Just gotta find what's you!


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## Aznative (May 25, 2018)

Well said Random Elk! I ended up selling my dang bow when I moved up here and now looking for another. Even though I loved the Reign im still gonna shoot all the new ones out. These bows these days are amazing year to year. I seem to always care more about noise of a bow. I had a crappy Martin years back and twice bucks jumped my shot. I also started making my own arrows. Made my own saw with a dremel attachment and man its no lie that you can buy the cheaper gold tip arrows and cut down the bad side and turn them into the expensive gold tip arrows. As for the release issue Random Elk is right that sometimes a hand release is tricky for hunting so go with your comfort.


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## Ecpk91 (Jun 13, 2018)

*which Bow*

I don't know if you are still in the market, I bought a new one this year. I selected the PSE Evoke. Here is why. I went to Jakes archery and tried PSE, Hoyt, Mathews and Prime. I narrowed it down to the prime and PSE but ultimately went with PSE due to Prime not having a bow to match my draw length. My evoke has 95% let off, is set at 70 LBS 31.5 inch draw length and shoots 322 FPS. The draw on the PSE, Hoyt and Prime were similar. The draw felt smoother on the mathews but then the smaller things I didn't like, speed, bow length (felt like a toy boy in my mongo arms and draw length). So I dropped mathews out. I dropped Hoyt out because of the price, an extra $300.00 to $400 just for the name wasn't worth it. I like the back wall on the draw of the prime and everything else felt the same as the PSE. They were all good bows and had great things about each one. I love my new bow and think PSE did a great job on updating what they have to offer.


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## CPAjeff (Dec 20, 2014)

Thanks everyone for the information!

I called Lance at Top of Utah and he was more than helpful. I'll be heading up there next week to look at bows and shoot as many as possible.


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## RandomElk16 (Sep 17, 2013)

CPAjeff said:


> Thanks everyone for the information!
> 
> I called Lance at Top of Utah and he was more than helpful. I'll be heading up there next week to look at bows and shoot as many as possible.


I'm heading up there next week as well. Let me know when you wander up!


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## bowdude (Aug 11, 2019)

I have stopped in at Lances shop a few times over the years and find him to be a good bow technician. I bought my first Elite bow from him and have been an Elite fanboy ever since. I shot Mathews for many years and have owned 5 of them over the years. I don't think a smoother drawing bow is made, but I moved from Mathews to Elite because of the String length. I had to check the cam sync fairly often due to string stretch. I have really liked the binary cam system that Elite has. Once the cam sync is set, it doesn't ever change. The solid back wall was the main selling feature for me. I have been interested in the PSE system as of late, but the cost of a new bows scares me away. I used to be into the speed game, but as I have gotten older (and weaker) shootability and forgiveness has become more important to me. Go find a good one and report back what you settle on. A couple of the guys in our league shoot the Bowtech Rein and really rave about it as well. As far as releases, I would rank them for accuracy in the following order, Hinge, Thumb and Index. For hunting, I would rank them in the following order, Index, Thumb and Hinge. For ease of shooting, Index, Thumb and Hinge. Most difficult to master, Hinge. For busting yourself in the chops, Hinge. I keep thinking I will master the thumb release and know that if I do, my accuracy will increase. I just don't have the patience to make the change. Maybe this year.


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## Aznative (May 25, 2018)

If you get serious on the thumb releases check out Carter 1st choice or that stand perfex. I loved both of those but leaned towards the perfex but it fits way small so get one bigger than youd think. It took me a couple months to master but once I did I was way more accurate. For hunting yes I still like the index as id hate to draw back with a thumb and a little buck fever to mess it up but I know quite a few who have kept using their thumb release for hunting and love it. But me id ve the idiot to set it down on a rock and forget it lol.

For bows yes the bowtech reign 7 I had was sweet! Wish id never have sold it but I want to check out an Elite reading your review. Im always open to different bows. Especially if comfortable in the draw.


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## bowdude (Aug 11, 2019)

Az... I have a Thumb Release, can't remember if it is a Scott or a Carter. Which ever it is, it is a nice one and works well. Trouble is, after shooting bows for close to 50 years and shooting an index release for probably 30 of those years, it is difficult to break old habits. I am a control shooter, and you can't control shoot a hinge with any amount of accuracy, you get some control with a thumb, and with the index, I can control exactly when I want the devise to fire with a great amount of accuracy. In those moments when the quarry steps between trees or into an opening, I can release the arrow at the precise moment the shot presents itself. 

Elite is known for their shoot ability. I currently own a 09 GT500, a 13 Answer (extremely smooth) and a 15 Synergy touted by most as the smoothest shooting Elite ever made. Personally, I think the Answer is a bit smoother, but the Synergy is so very accurate. I use the Answer for my 3-d league shooting, the Synergy for hunting and the GT 500 for just plain old goof off when the mood arises.


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## Aznative (May 25, 2018)

Bowdude thanks I have to checkout that synergy then sounds awesome. And you bring up hreat points for a finger release and hunting. Yes a thumb to me is better than a hinge. I dont like the hinges. But I was just thinking how many times at full draw where an animal moves and you have to slightly move before the shot. With the old finger release you can move your finger and not worry about having a accidental discharge but with a thumb I could see any pressure while turning firing that thing off. If you ever want to try a total sweet finger release you have to try the spot hogg wise guy. That is what I plan to use when I get another bow. Yes id love to try another thumb release but in actuality its best to practice with what you'll hunt with. Some guys can shoot both but im not sure at my age I can do that anymore.


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