# Refurbishing a Bamboo Rod



## Meesh (Jan 26, 2010)

My wife has got to be getting tired of me talking about this bamboo rod, so I figure I'd turn to others with a similar interest. I build my own graphite rods, and have done a few for friends, but I've never even handled a bamboo rod before so this was all new to me. 

A buddy of mine inherited a South Bend model 59 bamboo rod with the original automatic reel, which was purchased just after WWII. It was in OK shape, most of the damage caused by time and neglect - it was rather shaped like a ? after being stored for who knows how long being strung. It did have a good sized sliver of bamboo missing towards the tip, and I can't figure out how that was possibly done. Also at some point the owner decided to reshape the handle with a pocket knife, so out went the "comficient grip" and in came a surprisingly comfortable, yet ugly, hour-glass grip. The knifing had allowed other damage to occur - the glue was degraded and chunks of cork were missing. 

My buddy wanted to keep the grip, so I covered it and was quite pleased with the results. The rest of the restoration was basically stripping off the weathered urethane and guides, polishing all the metal parts and putting on new hardware. I also took apart and cleaned the reel - yes even the spring! That was tricky, but I found a way to clean and grease it without it uncoiling (which would have forced me to buy him a new reel rather than admit defeat ). 
All in all it was a great learning experience, especially learning about the fascinating inherent properties of bamboo, like being able to straighten the pieces using a heat gun and patience. I became so enamored that I went onto ebay and bought a Montague rod to rebuild for myself. It's coming along, and I can't wait to fish it. I love technology and shiny new things, but there is something to be said for taking something old and forgotten and making it into a beautiful, useful tool again.


These pics aren't the best I know - I was in a hurry. You can't really see the handle, which is my favorite part.


----------



## sawsman (Sep 13, 2007)

A project well done! Looks great!

It's always satisfying to see the end results of your labor. Now you just need to display it on the wall where your wife can see it all the time.


----------



## Grandpa D (Sep 7, 2007)

Nice job.
I have the same rod and reel.
My sons helped me restore mine. We replaced the old seat with a new beautiful Rosewood seat. A little sand paper to the handle and it looked like new.
I simply rubbed the rod tip in my hand and the friction produced enough heat to take the bend out of the tip.
I took the rod to the Green River and caught several nice Browns and Bows with it before retiring it.

My son has his Grandpa's old Bamboo rod that he also restored. That one has a wooden handle on it.
They are both beautiful pieces of history.


----------



## Meesh (Jan 26, 2010)

What line do you use with the South Bend? The line that was on the reel is serviceable, but casting past ~25' was a chore to say the least - it's a braided level line. I don't know how much my buddy plans on staying ol' school, but if he's willing to go with modern lines then I was thinking a #8 - sound about right for a SB59?


----------



## Grandpa D (Sep 7, 2007)

The line on the auto reel is a braided red colored line. [Was on it when I got it.]
I used a different reel when I fished with mine. I fished with a Cortland 444 weight forward 6 wt line and it cast quite well.


----------



## Meesh (Jan 26, 2010)

Great, thanks. We'll toss a #6 and see how it goes.


----------



## Grandpa D (Sep 7, 2007)

I thought that the model SB 59 stood for 5 wt. 9'.
Is this correct?
I just looked at mine and I was not correct in it's model number. Mine is a SB 57-9.
It came with 2 tips I assumed this meant it was a 9' rod and one tip was a5wt. and the other was a 7wt.
Again I don't know if this is correct.


----------



## Meesh (Jan 26, 2010)

Cracking the code on southbend rods has actually been fairly difficult! From what I've found the 59 series is a bass/salmon rod, where the 57 is a dry fly rod. To understand the difficulty in deciphering these numbers, models 31, 13, 24, 47, and 57C were also all bass rods and models 330, 312, 323, 346, 359, 257, 29 and 290 were all dry fly rods. All were three piece rods but the two 2## series. I see no patterns...
The two tips you have should be the same weight, just a spare from what I understand. 

Luckily I have an #8 and #6 rods, so we'll load them up and give each a try and see which one performs better.


----------



## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

The older 9'ers were a heavier weight rod, like a 6 or an 8. I have my Mother's old three piece. 
If you have two tips for your rod, you should rotate the tips, so you fish tip #1 one day and tip #2 the next. This will prolong the life of the tips and ensure they wear consistently.
I thought the numbers are the taper also which Meesh has pointed out. 
I don't use the old stuff, I am not that strong...LOL but I do use bamboo. I am building a 7'6" 5 wt Payne 101 two piece two tip, as well as 2 - 7' 4 weight Orvis Bamboos.


----------



## Meesh (Jan 26, 2010)

You'll have to tell us how that Payne turns out - from what I understand the 101 has a faster action to it. The few casts I made with the South Bend felt very slow, but then again with a proper line on it it would probably load up nicely and cast very well. 
Do you split your own bamboo as well? The videos I've watched make it look easy (otherwise they wouldn't put up the video right?), but just getting setup to do your first rod is quite $$$!!

If this refurbish I'm doing now works out then I'd like to make a new, hollowed rod, but I wouldn't even know where to begin on tapers. So many to choose from...


----------



## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

No I bought a blank. It is a faster taper. Those 9'ers are going to be noodlie for sure, but I like slow action. I fish glass also and the Graphite I have is full flex or medium action.
Fun stuff. Maybe I will bring the 5 when chasing those carp ;-)


----------



## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

madonafly said:


> The older 9'ers were a heavier weight rod, like a 6 or an 8. I have my Mother's old three piece.
> If you have two tips for your rod, you should rotate the tips, so you fish tip #1 one day and tip #2 the next. This will prolong the life of the tips and ensure they wear consistently.
> I thought the numbers are the taper also which Meesh has pointed out.
> I don't use the old stuff, I am not that strong...LOL but I do use bamboo. I am building a 7'6" 5 wt Payne 101 two piece two tip, as well as 2 - 7' 4 weight Orvis Bamboos.


My records show the model 59 was a 7/8wt and the 359 was a 5/6 wt. I have refinished both models.

How are you going to apply the finish to the Payne? I have a dip tank for bamboo rods.


----------



## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

Well, I will put the guides and tip top on, figuring out what color thread...I am contemplating no preserver so they go clear. I think a dipping tube, but I haven't got that far yet.


----------



## swbuckmaster (Sep 14, 2007)

Saaweet!


----------



## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

madonafly said:


> Well, I will put the guides and tip top on, figuring out what color thread...I am contemplating no preserver so they go clear. I think a dipping tube, but I haven't got that far yet.


I have all the Payne colors in silk. My dip tank is full of marine spar varnish if you want to use it.

Dip tank hoist:









Finishing a mid-section:


----------



## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

Sorry about hijacking the thread Meesh, nice job on the rod.


----------



## tkidder (May 31, 2011)

That's freakin' cool. Nice work!


----------



## Meesh (Jan 26, 2010)

Hijack away - besides we're still talking about bamboo and I'm learning so please keep it up. I like the use of the reel for your hoist; what I've read others doing sounded way too complicated with electric motors etc.

One thing I don't get is dipping with the guides on. I understand that's what's been done for years but isn't that defeating the purpose of high strength (say TiCH or agate) guides? I would think that the dirt that clings to the line will saw through the spar and cause it to flake off. 
With the South Bend I put the U-40 on by hand, then I put the guides on just like on a graphite with flex coat over the wraps. What does dipping afterwards provide finish wise - is it a smoother transition?

And thanks all for your comments, they are very much appreciated.


----------



## Meesh (Jan 26, 2010)

madonafly said:


> Maybe I will bring the 5 when chasing those carp ;-)


Do bring it, then we'll see if we can get you onto one large enough to make you wish you'd brought your mothers 59 :shock: . Or maybe even get you onto Fat Walter (aka "YOU SON OF A [email protected]#$!"), a large mouth I've yet to land.


----------



## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

madonafly said:


> Well, I will put the guides and tip top on, figuring out what color thread...I am contemplating no preserver so they go clear. I think a dipping tube, but I haven't got that far yet.


The only time I use color preserver on bamboo is if the original was done that way, which is rare on the better quality rods. Sometimes color preserver will change the color of the bamboo ajacent to the thread wraps. Also I've had some streaking problems with color preserver, something I did wrong. The Orvis impregnated series of rods have nylon thread I think, maybe some have heavy silk. I use nylon size A and color 541 if anyone needs some. To finish an impregnated rod like an Orvis I put 2 or 3 coats of spar varnish (at about 75° F) on the thread wraps with a fine brush. None of the finish touches the bamboo. I let the first coat of finish dry for a week and the take a razor blade and trim the silk "fuzzies" off before applying the next coat.

Dipping is a lost art. The thread wraps get brushed with thin spar varnish finish, 2 or 3 coats, trimming any fuzzies off like mentioned above. The dip tube is filled and allowed to "settle" for 24 hours to remove any air bubbles. The rod pieces are rigged and slowly lowered into the dip tube. After sitting for 5 minutes or so the rod is slowly "cranked" out of the tube. As the rod come out of the tube each flat is visually inspected with a bright light for air bubbles and dust. The air bubbles and dust are removed with a sewing needle. The thickness of the finish is dependant upon the temperature of the finish and the speed the rod section is pulled out of the finish.

I always dipped late at night after the kids went to bed. Before dipping I would dust and vacuum the dipping area, then go take a shower, strip down half-naked, and then wipe myself down with tack cloth to remove dust. If I had long hair I would wear a hair net. Anything to keep the dust down. I liked to get it right the first time, one coat.

It's a lot of work to get one with a glass-like finish, 100% free of dust or air bubbles.

Never ever dip two tips at the same time:









Dangit, I told myself I wasn't gonna get in this thread. How am I doin'?


----------



## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

Traditionally the guides were dipped even the stripping guide(s). I usually tape off the tip top. If I do a casting rod with all agate guides I dip it all. If properly done the rod finish ends up very very thin, going on by capillary action.

Most of the time only the male and female socket parts of the ferrules are taped off, don't get rod finish. 

Some of the "modern" bamboo guys tape off their stripping guides and tip top. I don't use modern stripping guides and tip tops on bamboo so I'm not in that crowd.


----------



## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

Meesh said:


> madonafly said:
> 
> 
> > Maybe I will bring the 5 when chasing those carp ;-)
> ...


Okay, I get the 5 being under gunned, but it can be done.. :lol: But then I landed 12 lb Carp with a E glass. Swear the tip touched my fingers.
I want to dip my bamboo because it is bamboo. I want the whole rod with a good coating unlike glass or graphite. Maybe clean the guides after all is said and done with a little steel wool.
My hubby uses a plastic tube for dipping and he likes the shower.
I still like the idea of white silk with no preserver so it goes clear. Say one boo like that and it was retro.

I look forward to your finished product Meesh.


----------



## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

Meesh said:


> Hijack away - besides we're still talking about bamboo and I'm learning so please keep it up. I like the use of the reel for your hoist; what I've read others doing sounded way too complicated with electric motors etc.
> 
> One thing I don't get is dipping with the guides on. I understand that's what's been done for years but isn't that defeating the purpose of high strength (say TiCH or agate) guides? I would think that the dirt that clings to the line will saw through the spar and cause it to flake off.
> With the South Bend I put the U-40 on by hand, then I put the guides on just like on a graphite with flex coat over the wraps. What does dipping afterwards provide finish wise - is it a smoother transition?
> ...


I have read about the motor version as well, but there is also the tube with a spigot. Instead of lifting the rod out of the tube, the varnish slowly pours out the bottom through the spigot. Or we have used the Turkey Baster.
Great topic and fantastic contribution Wyo.


----------



## Meesh (Jan 26, 2010)

> Dangit, I told myself I wasn't gonna get in this thread. How am I doin'?


Doin' great, I didn't see a thing!

I understand now why dipping would be a preferred method - dust and bubbles. I did have a heck of a time keeping dust off, not so much the bubbles, but definitely dust.

I must admit that I'm not sure that I'm man enough to get caught by my wife down in the basement half naked, sweat soaked tack cloths laying crumpled on the floor, while cranking and swearing at some strange contraption that involves pulleys, strings and a pipe filled with a noxious brew. I get teased enough about the "mysterious" things happening in the basement, so I don't think I should add witchcraft to the mix


----------



## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

Compared to brushing dipping has few bubbles or dust. Dipping provides an even, thin, glass-like finish, unobtainable with a brush.


----------

