# Fly Rod Suggestions



## FishNaked (Apr 15, 2009)

Ok so here's the deal...I'm a long time avid fisherman and have scores of big fish under belt...but I've only fly fished one time...mostly spinners, rapalas, and bait under a bobber guy. The one time I have fly fished was a Lumber Yard trip on the Green in a drift boat and I had a blast. I've decided that it is time to get into fly fishing and will find a new set up under the Christmas tree this year but where does one start? I figured I'd turn to all you guys for your suggestions. I can afford more but really don't want to drop a thousand bucks on my first fly package. I'll mostly be fishing Southeast Idaho and Southwest Montana...rivers and streams...and Henry's and Clark of course. 5wt...7wt...8'...9'...2 piece...4 piece...so many options. I've had several people suggest one of the Cabela's combos...about $200 and a great warranty...and then move up from there when I'm more familiar. 

What would all of you do if you had to start over and buy your first fly rig...knowing what you know now. Let's keep it under $400 and a good all around fly combo.


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## Grandpa D (Sep 7, 2007)

Sounds like you will be fishing for larger than average size trout.
A 6 wt. in a 9' medium fast action will be a good all around set up for you.
Put your money into a good quality weight forward floating line.
A medium or large arbor reel with a good drag system will be a wise investment.
As far as a rod goes, there are a lot of good choices.
I like the Saint Croix line but others will have their favorites.

$400.00 will get you into a great outfit.
I don't know if you will want to try a combo though.
Most combos are comprised of lower quality componants.


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## hunt14 (Oct 25, 2010)

Cabela's L-Tech/Lamson Konic Fly Combo 9' 6wt 4pc $330
WF 6wt Rio trout LT Line. Web site sale $69.95 = $399.95 + tax of course


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## sinergy (Mar 6, 2008)

+1 on the Grandpa D's post about combos

Id suggest for rods/reels in the 400 $ range: 5 or 6 wt in a 8' 6" or 9' ( I prefer a 8' 6" )
Rods: 
Scott A3, Sage Flight, Winston Passport 
( you could skimp on the reel and get a higher end rod: drag vs palming )
Redington rs4, Echo Carbon or a TFO pro
(best bang for your buck ) 

Reels: Lamson Konic, Redinton Rise, & Ross Airrus
Lines:
Rio Grand, SA Mastery, Royal Wuff 
(I use to be a Corland fan bought there 555 WF the line started cracking on me in less than a year. 
I email and called there customer service 3 times to warranty the line, never got one response back from them. 

The other thing I recommend is shop around I just purchased a sage vt2 and I seen price difference up to 200+ dollars depending on the outfitter. 

Oh and just FYI Madison River blowing out there last year Winston Vapor & Ascent Rods for about 1/2 price


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## trout bum (Oct 5, 2010)

The problem with a thread like this is that you are going to get a bunch of opinions from everyone telling you what works for them. Which is fine because that is what you are asking for and most of them know what they are talking about. You are definately going to want to cast a few rods and make sure it feels good to you. All of them are going to feel a little different. These guys are giving you some good options but before you sink the $$$, go cast a few. Just my opinion.

As far as fishing Idaho and Montana, unless you are going to be throwing a lot of streamers, the #5 has always been plenty of rod for me.

TB


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

I agree with all except, the rod. What is your casting style. Get a fast rod will cover allot of casting flaws and I feel promote sloppy. It does have it's place with wind and big flies though.
Slower action teach you the right way. To slow down and wait for the tug before starting forward.
Spend a little time picking the rod.
Next, the reel....just a place to keep your line as far as trout. Seriously! A good drag however. I recommend from personal use ALLEN REELS. in the $60 range.
A weight forward is a good choice for a beginner. The ONLY advantage I see to a double taper is it is two "OKAY" lines in one. All lines are the same in the first 15' or so anyway.
Triangle Taper...I don't think that is a good beginners line. I have it and have ONE rod that likes it.
Don't skimp on the line. Rio Grand is 1/2 line heavier so will make casting feel a little easier. Wind Cutter is a 1/2 line lighter at the front making it cut through wind easier. My choice for beginners is Rio Selective Trout II 

An 8'6", 9' or even a 10' is a good big river length and a 6 weight is also a good choice although can be over kill on some waters. There again, a slower action will allow you to feel smaller fish, but save on break offs on larger as the tip does the work.

I agree with not wanting to drop big bucks right out of the gate, but as far as a rod goes, I am a firm believer, you get what you pay for. The better the rod (TOOL) the easier it is to work with.

I was going to add, screw those ASIAN versions of Winston...check out the BIIx. It is being discontinued and great price. It is an unbelievable rod.


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## Vanilla (Dec 11, 2009)

The suggestion to go in and cast a rod before buying it is very sound advice. But with you only fly fishing 1 time before, you probably won't be able to tell much of a difference. It's still a good idea though. Most places will allow you to string up a rod and take it outside and cast it. 

A 9 foot 5 weight is probably the best "all-around" rod if you are only going to have 1 fly rod. It's big enough to fish any river for trout in the areas you talked about. It might be a little light for tossing streamers, etc if you are hucking big meat, but doable. It will also perform better on smaller stuff than a 6 wt will. You match the weight of the rod and line to the flies you are throwing, not the anticipated big trout you hope to catch. Although a heavier rod does allow for some more backbone to cast in the wind, fight a bigger fish, etc. Action is tough because it depends on what you are fishing with, casting style, etc. No one action is the best for everyone. But a medium-fast is probably the place to at least start looking. 

I would stay away from the expensive big named reels. Keep in mind that you will eventually want to throw sinking line, or a sink tip line so you'll need another spool. But in addition, trout just don't fight hard enough for it to really matter. I have caught some big trout, never one that needed a big, heavy drag to stop it in its tracks. These aren't salmon, steelhead, or saltwater fish. Find an inexpensive reel that balances nice with your rod. With that said, I have the Lamson Konic on my 8 wt. It's an inexpensive reel with an incredible drag. If you are venturing over $100 for your reel, that is the one for sure you should look at. 

As for rods...there are a ton out there to look at. St Croix has inexpensive options. Redington. Cabelas. There are always online sales clearing out higher end models from Sage, etc that you'd be happy with as well. I don't advocate buying gear that sucks. But there is a big difference between "inexpensive" and "cheap". There is a lot of stuff out there that won't break the bank, that many people overlook because it doesn't cost a lot, that is great stuff and will have you happy for years to come. Just have to get out and start looking.


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## GaryFish (Sep 7, 2007)

Lots of great advise. For where you'll be fishing, a 9 ft, 5 w. And my own choice would be a medium-fast or fast action rod - something like the Sage XP. My first all around rod was a 8 1/2 ft. 5/6 weight, medium action. It is too soft for the bigger rivers you are talking about, but just about perfect for rivers like the Provo or Weber. And WAAAAAYYYYY too soft for my float tube/pontoon. A faster action rod can make shorter casts like a medium action rod, but a medium action rod cannot cast in a decent wind, or longer distances. So if I were to get one all around rod, my thought is the 9 ft. 5 w fast action can do everything a lesser action or shorter rod could do, but not the other way around.


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## Nor-tah (Dec 16, 2007)

hunt14 said:


> Cabela's L-Tech/Lamson Konic Fly Combo 9' 6wt 4pc $330
> WF 6wt Rio trout LT Line. Web site sale $69.95 = $399.95 + tax of course


I really like this suggestion except I would say RIO Grande for the line. The tech is a great rod, lamsons are tough reels. When you are ready to upgrade you can sell it and buy some higher end stuff. Its a sickness though... I'll warn you right now. :mrgreen:


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

GaryFish said:


> Lots of great advise. For where you'll be fishing, a 9 ft, 5 w. And my own choice would be a medium-fast or fast action rod - something like the Sage XP. My first all around rod was a 8 1/2 ft. 5/6 weight, medium action. It is too soft for the bigger rivers you are talking about, but just about perfect for rivers like the Provo or Weber. And WAAAAAYYYYY too soft for my float tube/pontoon. A faster action rod can make shorter casts like a medium action rod, but a medium action rod cannot cast in a decent wind, or longer distances. So if I were to get one all around rod, my thought is the 9 ft. 5 w fast action can do everything a lesser action or shorter rod could do, but not the other way around.


Really? Why not slow action for a tube? There is a difference however in slow, medium and fast.
You can cast big bugs and into the wind with a Medium fast rod like an LT or ZXL.
I feel the other way around that a fast action is limited , that is why you see so many used ones sale

But like pointed out, being a newbie, you probably won't know what it is suppose to feel like.

You do want to feel it load up though and if you rush it like so many, you will be slapping in the back and wind knots.

Medium fast (what I mean by slower) will make you slow down and feel the load.

To all you that have been fly fishing for awhile...get a slow (glass) rod and fish with it for awhile...you will hate it at first, but keep at it. Then when you go back to a faster action, you will be amazed at how easy it is and how good you will look doing it.


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## GaryFish (Sep 7, 2007)

Really? Why not slow action for a tube? 

Its really hard to both cast, and pull a sinking line up with a softer action rod.


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

What is slow action to you?


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## GaryFish (Sep 7, 2007)

Any rod labeled "Medium action", "Mid-flex", or "full-flex."


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

Then it depends on your skill. I use Bamboo, "E" glass and full flex and I use sinking lines on then. You learn to pull the line to set the hook, not lift your rod tip, that is all.
Which just goes to show,....different strokes for different people.

I have taught, and I teach with a med/fast or mid flex (which is one of my favorite river tapers because it can roll cast like a dream)
I grew up in ID and fish there probably more than here in Utah, so I think a 6 wt. will cover your behind because you just don't know. You will be able to fish the small creeks, but also Henry's lake. And again, a softer tip saves on tippet.

I still say to swing a few and I don't mean wiggle. You will know what feels good to you. Then you go from there.


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## FishNaked (Apr 15, 2009)

I knew that question was going to open up a can of worms with the suggestions...similar to a Ford Chevy debate. I think the overlying opinion so far is a 9'...6wt...medium fast set up. I'll keep watching the suggestions and start playing with rods in the sporting goods stores and let you all know what I end up with.


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## FishNaked (Apr 15, 2009)

Another part of this question to debate...what is the difference or advantages of a 2 piece or 4 piece rod...besides the obvious the 4 piece would be easier to pack around?


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## RnF (Sep 25, 2007)

Get a 4 piece, there is no real big difference imo. A 2 piece is harder to travel with.

I would suggest finding a nice 6wt rod. As far as the action/brand is concerned, cast some and pick what feels the best for ya. There area a ton of good rods out there at all price ranges, my favorite rod costs about $100 bucks. Once I casted it and immediately fell in love with it, I would have NEVER picked the rod if I hadn't picked it up.


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

RNfF don't lie! Two piece is easier to line up guides, but they are getting harder and harder to find.
It use to make a difference many years ago, but modern tech has changed that. 
Now an odd number like 3, 5, 7 is still said to make a difference. They are suppose to be more harmonics.
I know from building rods, the guide placement can make all the difference in the world, and the odd number pieces puts the guides evenly and I have noticed a better smoother line.
Just a thought.


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## RnF (Sep 25, 2007)

It's a minor enough of a difference that I don't care either way. Modern tech has definitely changed that. If I had one choice, I would go 4 piece just for the ease of packing it around.


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## trout bum (Oct 5, 2010)

I agree. Four piece is convenient. Although they are more costly than the two piece.


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## Grandpa D (Sep 7, 2007)

You can't use a standard rod and reel case with a 3 or 5 piece rod. I found out the hard way.
A four piece will break in half and fit in the case.


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## trout bum (Oct 5, 2010)

yes. The four piece is convenient when hiking because it breaks down smaller. But if you dont need to break it down smaller you can just break it in half and put it in a regular rod case. Just make sure you break it down from time to time so the sections dont get stuck. I have an old case for a two piece that will fit the rod and reel. Sometimes when I fish everyday it gets to be a pain in the a$$ to take the reel off so I break my four piece in two and stowe it in my case with the reel still attatched.


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

trout bum said:


> yes. The four piece is convenient when hiking because it breaks down smaller. But if you dont need to break it down smaller you can just break it in half and put it in a regular rod case. Just make sure you break it down from time to time so the sections dont get stuck. I have an old case for a two piece that will fit the rod and reel. Sometimes when I fish everyday it gets to be a pain in the **** to take the reel off so I break my four piece in two and stowe it in my case with the reel still attatched.


Plus a two piece case can double for a killer wading staff.


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## trout bum (Oct 5, 2010)

Is your screen name pronounced "mad on a fly" or "madonafly"? Just curious.


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

Yes.....;-0 I am bilingual. LOL


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## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

For starters: 9 ft 6wt medium action like *GrandpaD* says.

Fly fishing should not be complicated.

Ah...my favorites are 3-pc medium action 9 footers.


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## trout bum (Oct 5, 2010)

wyogoob said:


> For starters: 9 ft 6wt medium action like *GrandpaD* says.
> 
> Fly fishing should not be complicated.
> 
> Ah...my favorites are 3-pc medium action 9 footers.


Fly fishing is complicated. If you dont think it is you are fishing for stupid fish or getting lucky. It is one sport to which a man can devote his entire life and not master. Can you make it less complicated? Ofcourse. I know what you meant.


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## sinergy (Mar 6, 2008)

As the old saying goes you get what you pay for. You skimp and buy cheap crap your going end up paying again to replace. Quality usually holds its value and when time comes you want to upgrade you can resell quality not crap.. trust me I skimped and bought a bunch of crap from someones Octoberfest sale wont name names but im now stuck with crap nobody wants to buy it posted it on ksl & ebay multiple times for way below what I paid and well I still have the crap...


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## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

sinergy said:


> As the old saying goes you get what you pay for. You skimp and buy cheap crap your going end up paying again to replace. Quality usually holds its value and when time comes you want to upgrade you can resell quality not crap.. trust me I skimped and bought a bunch of crap from someones Octoberfest sale wont name names but im now stuck with crap nobody wants to buy it posted it on ksl & ebay multiple times for way below what I paid and well I still have the crap...


Hey, I have crap, and I have nice, and I have reeeaaal nice.

Crap is handy sometimes. I use it, especially backpacking. I keep lots of crap around for grandkids and visiting tourists.

Let's give it up for crap fly rods!!

I may have had too much coffee this afternoon.

.


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

wyogoob said:


> sinergy said:
> 
> 
> > As the old saying goes you get what you pay for. You skimp and buy cheap crap your going end up paying again to replace. Quality usually holds its value and when time comes you want to upgrade you can resell quality not crap.. trust me I skimped and bought a bunch of crap from someones Octoberfest sale wont name names but im now stuck with crap nobody wants to buy it posted it on ksl & ebay multiple times for way below what I paid and well I still have the crap...
> ...


I know I grab my W.W.Griggs first, Orvis and Winston second....CRAZY, but I love the Half glass half Graphite action.


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## sinergy (Mar 6, 2008)

wyogoob said:


> Let's give it up for crap fly rods!!


To each his own I guess someone needs to keep those 3rd world countries employed

Another good saying. You take a piece of crap dress it up put bells and whistles on it, make it look real nice. But at the end of the day its still a piece of crap.
 

The guy doesn't want crap for his beginner outfit :| :|


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

Sin, I agree 100%. I get tired of hearing about "my $100. blah blah cast just like a top end" Sure they cast, but that is the person, sure they catch fish, but that is the person.
A smart car does the same function as a BMW, but which is more comfortable.

In the same breath, you put a good line (Like Shark Skin) on a Wally World special, and it is going to make a HUGE difference as well. So with that in mind, I try to make sure the rod cost more than the line...LOL


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## RnF (Sep 25, 2007)

I get tired of everyone thinking their opinion is right no matter what. There are many options out there and not any one is right for everyone. Otherwise there wouldn't be options.

I will agree that Walmart rods aren't good. But there are good cheaper rods out there and some cheaper rods are better than more expensive rods. Who cares what rod people use, I get tired of people caring about that. It often comes down to what they can afford, and not everyone can afford or is willing to drop $1000 bucks on a rod set up when a cheaper set up can get the job done. Just get out and fish with what ever you can and don't worry about it.


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## Grandpa D (Sep 7, 2007)

RnF said:


> I get tired of everyone thinking their opinion is right no matter what. There are many options out there and not any one is right for everyone. Otherwise there wouldn't be options.
> 
> I will agree that Walmart rods aren't good. But there are good cheaper rods out there and some cheaper rods are better than more expensive rods. Who cares what rod people use, I get tired of people caring about that. It often comes down to what they can afford, and not everyone can afford or is willing to drop $1000 bucks on a rod set up when a cheaper set up can get the job done. Just get out and fish with what ever you can and don't worry about it.


I agree.
Fly fishing can become very expensive, if you want it to.
You can also fish with a set up that will cost around $100.00 total and catch fish. Is there a difference?
Of course there is but that doesn't mean that you have to pay a lot to get something usable.

The less expensive outfits that have been mentioned in this thread are good examples of this. 
We all have our own preferences in equipment but that doesn't make our choice the best.


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## flyguy7 (Sep 16, 2007)

I just don't fit in at all in this place anymore! Personally, I like softer action rods like Scott G, G2, Winston LT, WT, Sage SP, SLT, etc... But like many have said, You don't need a high end rod to get started. I still think the Echo Carbon for under 180 bucks is still the best deal doing. The new Orvis Clearwater II's are also great sticks. Used them on many trips this year and they perform well and watched them fall off rod racks twice on the highway at full speed and not break. For reels, anything machined will work. As far as lines, a weight forward will be easier to learn to cast but why no love for double tapers? Were not making 90 foot casts every day from a drift boat here in Utah, folks. I can tell you i've EFFECTIVELY fish dries with a double taper at 60 and 70 feet on big rivers so it should be a cake walk for 98% of most fishing situations. Plus, a double taper throws small dries more delicately for hatch fishing, roll casts much better, and mends easier. If you are rarely casting more than 30 feet, you aren't carrying the head of a weight forward anyway so it is a mute point as most weight forward heads are 39' - 55' in length anyway. 

P.S. The day my line goes for nearly a year without cracking is cause for throwing a party.


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

flyguy7 said:


> I just don't fit in at all in this place anymore! Personally, I like softer action rods like Scott G, G2, Winston LT, WT, Sage SP, SLT, etc... But like many have said, You don't need a high end rod to get started. I still think the Echo Carbon for under 180 bucks is still the best deal doing. The new Orvis Clearwater II's are also great sticks. Used them on many trips this year and they perform well and watched them fall off rod racks twice on the highway at full speed and not break. For reels, anything machined will work. As far as lines, a weight forward will be easier to learn to cast but why no love for double tapers? Were not making 90 foot casts every day from a drift boat here in Utah, folks. I can tell you i've EFFECTIVELY fish dries with a double taper at 60 and 70 feet on big rivers so it should be a cake walk for 98% of most fishing situations. Plus, a double taper throws small dries more delicately for hatch fishing, roll casts much better, and mends easier. If you are rarely casting more than 30 feet, you aren't carrying the head of a weight forward anyway so it is a mute point as most weight forward heads are 39' - 55' in length anyway.
> 
> P.S. The day my line goes for nearly a year without cracking is cause for throwing a party.


My feeling why I don't use DT is because it is a bigger diameter running line. Easier to mend? Not for me. Long bellys and smaller diameter, but I fish bamboo and the guides are smaller.
The first 30 feet generally are the same so you are right if you don't go over that it makes no difference. 
And casting 80' or 90' not a big issue, but in my book a big plus if that feature is there.
Running Line: this section exists primarily to make distance casting easier. 
Since a Double Taper (DT) line is essentially a long belly with tapers at both ends,there is
no running line by definition. This large diameter belly line does not shoot through the rod 
guides easily. A smaller diameter, lighter weight line creates less friction. The running line portion of Weight Forward (WF) and Shooting Taper (ST) configuration fills this role. The
Head is extended through the tip of the rod. The rod is loaded with the weight of the Head.

What WF lines are 39' to 55'? Usually 30 for WF and 15 for DT


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## flyguy7 (Sep 16, 2007)

Mending at distance actually becomes a matter of physics. A thinner running line doesn't have the weight to turnover the "head" of the flyline. With a double taper, the belly is the thickest part of the line, (this is why DT lines do not have a head, only equal length front and rear tapers that transition into thicker belly) and therefore turnover the tip easier on mending. It is the same principle behind roll casting (and spey casting for that matter.) The reason a double taper roll casts better than a weight forward is the thicker belly transitions its power into the tip of the line. When the power and weight of that thicker belly is transferred into the tip, there is enough energy to pick the lighter tip off the water, pull it through its anchor point, and propel it forward. When roll casting a wf line, you are using the thinner running to try and turnover that heavier, thicker fly line head. (this thicker head also has more resistance because it has more surface area on the water, creating more tension on the water that the thin running line just can't kick over.) All of us have seen this happen when the line rolls out nice until it gets 2/3 down to the tip and die in a spaghetti pile around the butt section of the leader. Sometimes the fly will flip into the air and come down in the same pile. Its just a matter of mass and energy transfer. 

Here are some common WF floating trout lines and their head lengths (off of SA's and Rio's website) All lines are wf -5-f

-------RIO
Trout LT 47'
Gold 47'
Grand 38'
Indicator 67'! "The thick diameter tip and short front taper easily turns over the largest of indicators, while the ultra long head and back taper make it very easy to mend and control the way the fly fishes at great distance." ==rioproducts.com
Windcutter II 43'
Classic 40'

-------Scientific Anglers
Sharkskin GPX 38'
Sharkskin Ultimate Trout 51'
Mastery Trout 51'
Mastery GPX 38'


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

Cool, thanks. I will stick with my WF though, it works for me...;-) And yes I have both even a TT in there...LOL


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## flyguy7 (Sep 16, 2007)

madonafly said:


> Cool, thanks. I will stick with my WF though, it works for me...;-) And yes I have both even a TT in there...LOL


And thats what matters most! If it ain't broke don't fix it!


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

flyguy, looking at the chart, those numbers are total head length, and DT is 90? That is including front taper and body.


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## flyguy7 (Sep 16, 2007)

Correct. An entire DT line is very similar to a standard wf head. The only difference is the fron and back tapers would be identical.


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

One more thing I would like to add is WF offers all the specialty lines with the different tapers. Bass lines for Big Bugs, Windcutter for wind, tapers for small rods and tapers for big rods and speys.
I am one that loves that 1/2 size smaller on the Wincutter, that 1/2 size larger on the GPX, the long bellys on light lines.
These are a few of my favorite things....la la la (in WF)


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## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

RnF said:


> I get tired of everyone thinking their opinion is right no matter what. There are many options out there and not any one is right for everyone. Otherwise there wouldn't be options.
> 
> I will agree that Walmart rods aren't good. But there are good cheaper rods out there and some cheaper rods are better than more expensive rods. Who cares what rod people use, I get tired of people caring about that. It often comes down to what they can afford, and not everyone can afford or is willing to drop $1000 bucks on a rod set up when a cheaper set up can get the job done. Just get out and fish with what ever you can and don't worry about it.


You got my vote. The fish don't know the difference.


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## RnF (Sep 25, 2007)

One other thing to think about fly rods. What was $500 bucks 5 years ago can be bought for much lower prices and other companies are making their "generic" cheaper rods with the same materials. Those rods didn't all of sudden start sucking. They are still really nice and there is nothing wrong with using the older technologies.


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

RnF said:


> One other thing to think about fly rods. What was $500 bucks 5 years ago can be bought for much lower prices and other companies are making their "generic" cheaper rods with the same materials. Those rods didn't all of sudden start sucking. They are still really nice and there is nothing wrong with using the older technologies.


If not the same material, the same technology.
I don't think there is a graphite rod out there worth $700.+


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## trout bum (Oct 5, 2010)

If fishing is what makes you happy and all you can afford or want to afford is a less exspensive rod, then get a less exspensive fly rod and get on the water. Some people dont like to spend a lot even if they can. I started on a browning graphite and fished with it for years. It was a tank and was well under a hundered dollars.(I would not recomend one though). Now I fish a Z because I can and want too. Nobody should be criticized about how much they are willing to spend on a fly rod.
TB


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

so who did? Post about rod purchase always end up here.....why is that?
Being a newbie, you wouldn't notice a difference between an Albright and a Sage most likely. Once you have been fly fishing for awhile, then you will know what you want. But the better the beginner rod, makes for a great back up in the future.


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## trout bum (Oct 5, 2010)

Nobody did. Im just saying to each is own. Use what you got if thats what gets you on the water. Sorry, that was confusing.

TB


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## sinergy (Mar 6, 2008)

Most Anglers usually end up upgrading there equipment as they gain more experience and improve there skills Id like to think of it as just natural progression but In my sole opinion and just my opinion if you buy a better quality rod at first when it comes time to upgrade you can resell that rod recouping some of the money you originally spent. 

For example I received a Redinton CPS from my GF she spent around 180 for it I fish it off and on for a couple of years then ended up selling it on ksl for 130 bucks. That equals 50 dollars total cost of the rod plus I got 2 years of service out it. Were as a lower quality less desirable rod may not resell for as nearly the cost you purchased it for or... resell at all. 

Just my 2 cents ..


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## madonafly (Dec 27, 2007)

Got a point there Sin. Riverdog has one or two of my out grows...LOL
And I went more full flex.


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