# Start reloading?



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

My FIL has mentioned in passing a few times that he would give me his reloading stuff and I just had not really taken any interest in it until recently. He mentioned that he had sold most of it as I had not taken any interest, but I see that he still has the press itself. What would be the minimum amount of equipment required to get started and rough costs? I browsed that section today at SW and was a bit overwhelmed having never seent it done before. I own about 10 different calibers, but would like only reload 2-3 to start. Thanks for the info guys!


----------



## Cooky (Apr 25, 2011)

By all means start, but you don’t have to get carried away buying equipment to get started. Good quality ammo as been being made with $20 Lee Loader sets for a lot of years. Buy the latest Lyman reloading manual (best explanations IMO), learn the process, and then buy the minimum you need to try hand loading. Most of the high buck-fancy stuff is nice to have, but not really mandatory. Add equipment as the addiction progresses.

I would recommend a good scale and dial calipers early on. Right behind that will be a powder measure and case trimmer.


----------



## Bax* (Dec 14, 2008)

Good advice Cooky. 

I would also suggest a cold drink and some good tunes


----------



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

Thanks for the help fellars! I like the idea of the Lee. I read the review on Cabela's and one guy's review reads:


> GREAT LITTLE RELOADER ! LOADED AND SHOT OVER 1000 ROUNDS WITH IT AND AM VERY HAPPY WITH IT . LEE STANDS BEHIND THERE PRODUCTS I BROKE MY DECAPING TOOL EMAILED LEE AND THEY SENT ONE OFF TO ME THAT DAY! I PLAN TO BUY ONE FOR MOST OF MY PISTOLS AND RIFLES. GREAT FOR BEGINNERS! WARNING USING THIS TOOL IS VERY ADDICTING A GREAT WAY TO TRY TO QUIT SMOKING CIGARETS STAY OCCUPIED LOADING NOT SMOKING AND THE ROUNDS AD UP AWESOME IF YOU SHOOT A LOT!


 I could use a smoking cessation hobby, not that I smoke, but if this will make it so I never smoke...


----------



## mikevanwilder (Nov 11, 2008)

Well one thing is you don't want to smoke while reloading! :shock: 
It is very addictive. I bet if you bought 1 die set and everything else you need to reload it wont be long before you buy a die set for every caliber you have. 
Remember to get a manuel first though and read it carefully before starting. 
Enjoy!!


----------



## Huntoholic (Sep 17, 2008)

Die - 32.00
Calipers - 20.00
Pocket cleaner - 3.00
Scale - 95.00
Shell Holder - 9.00
Case Lube - 10.00
Funnel - 8.00
Deburring - 13.00

The bottom 4 have such a wide range in prices, tough to price.
Manual - 
Bullets - 
Powder - 
Primer - 
Brass -


----------



## BPturkeys (Sep 13, 2007)

Beyond the physical equipment/tools needed for reloading the things I recommend for good, safe, reloading are:
1. Buy a loading manual, or two, and read them completely! Refer back to it often, and always prier to a new loading session . Remember...details, details, details.
2. Always load in a quite, non-distractive area. Loss of concentration will lead to mistakes and not only will mistakes lead to bad reloads, they can be dangerous.
3. Break the process down into steps, i.e inspecting and cleaning brass, priming, etc and complete that step for all the intended rounds before you move to the next step. Stop and take a break before moving on to the next step.
4. Establish a procedure of "double checking" the work of each step before proceeding on, i.e, don't assume you have primed all the rounds, actually examine every case again. A lot of loaders will turn the cases over in the loading block after each step as a way to identify that a procedure has been completed on that case.
5. Don't start loading a larger batch than you might have time or patience to complete in one sitting. 
6. Remember that "consistency" is the key to good loads. Every round must be not only composed of identical components, i.e., exactly the same weight charge, but for example the primers must be seated with the same exact pressure and the bullet seated to the same exact depth, cases trimmed to same exact length, etc.
6. In general, just take your time, load small batches and always double check your work before you move on to the next step.


----------



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

Thanks for all of the info guys! I actually had a 3 hour mentoring session just tonight by a very generous forum member. Very interesting stuff for sure! I decided to shop more for just the right bullet as it is a little more complicated than I originally thought, so we will finish up the batch another night, but I can certainly see how some get addicted. 
Thanks for the breakdown Huntoholic. I am one who will likely have to go all the way and buy a full set. I am not clear on how seating happens w/o the press, so I will have to look up up the Lee on Youtube.
Thanks again member whose name rhymes with Pukus! Fun stuff and thanks for taking the time to teach!


----------



## Al Hansen (Sep 7, 2007)

Huntoholic said:


> Die - 32.00
> Calipers - 20.00
> Pocket cleaner - 3.00
> Scale - 95.00
> ...


REWARDS- Priceless !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

Al Hansen said:


> Huntoholic said:
> 
> 
> > Die - 32.00
> ...


Yep.


----------



## James (Oct 7, 2007)

Press RCBS
Manual Lyman - You should really get this first and read.
shell holder for each caliber you want to load. Some fit several.
scale Ohaus
powder measure Lyman 55
calipers
die set for each caliber you want to load
de-burr tool
loading board
case lube

You will need the above. Just some suggestions on the brands. Some of this stuff you may find on eBay. I got a nice press there a while back at a good price. You can shop for a kit that will have most of this stuff, but I am thinking the kits are about $400. Then you need dies and shell holders on top of that.


----------



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

Thanks James and everyone else! I have since made much progress since last post. I have the entire NRMA bench all built, just need the cabinet. I have read the majority of the Lyman manual now. That manual cracks me up with so many typos, which makes me question the credibility a little when accuracy is the only thing we are after, yet they spell the Editor's Foreword as forward...just makes me chuckle and I will certainly double check all figures provides therein. I am about to buy the 30-06 and possibly the 308 die for my dad as we can use the same bullets, primers and powders for the Barnes bullets.


----------



## Cooky (Apr 25, 2011)

If you are going to use Barnes bullets use their load data. Some of their bullets generate pressure differently than the standard cup and core type bullets a lot of loads are developed with.


----------



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

Yes, good point Cooky! They are very distinct in that there is usually only two types of powder that can be used for each bullet compared to ten or so options on most other bullets. From my first trip to the range with them, I am happy with the results. It is pretty fun to test the different charge levels.


----------



## Critter (Mar 20, 2010)

If you purchase the Barnes manual you will see that there is usually around 10 powders listed for each bullet weight but if you go to their web site you will only find a couple. That is the fun part about reloading, reading each manual and finding out what each has to say on how to do things. I personally have around 12 manuals myself since I started reloading in 1977 and need to buy a couple more. 

Now we need to take bets to see when Huge starts asking about what is the best chronograph to check the speeds of the bullets that he is reloading.


----------



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

Good to know, thanks Cooky! I may just have to buy my third manual apparently...
No chronograph for sure, of course, three weeks ago none of this little expensive project was even in the realm of possibility; it is all Bax' fault!


----------



## James (Oct 7, 2007)

Over the years I have used a lot of Hornady bullets. I have their manual and certainly enjoy it. I got the Lyman manual mainly for the cast bullet data since I also cast bullets. You can get loading data online from bullet manufacturers and powder manufacturers. The main reason for having a manual is for the Procedural explanations (How To and Safety) that are in each manual.

Where ever you get your load data, remember to start low and work up looking for signs of high pressure as you go. Some load data only gives you the top load and if that is the case reduce by 10% for a start load. I have seldom found it needful to operate at the top load. Usually I can find a good accurate and high enough velocity load before hitting the max loads. I like to check several sources before jumping into it, just to see what the other guy found when testing that particular combo of caliber, powder and bullet. Of course the gun it is fired in will make a difference too. That is why we start low and work up. Aw, don't worry too much about the chrono. I have been loading since 1958 and still don't have one. The thing to do *is learn to hit the target*. You don't need a chrono to do that. Sight your rifle in to hit 1.5 inches high at 100 yards.


----------



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

How do you guys track load data? Bax showed me a good method of numbering each brass and the corresponding label with the charge, bullet, etc., but what about for next year? Do you guys keep a notepad of the pattern and the load data to do the same again? I picture doing a little spreadsheet to list charge, bullet, brass mfgr??, full/half moon, etc. along with a pic of the pattern or something all nerded out like. What do you all do?


----------



## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

Huge29 said:


> How do you guys track load data?


With this:

http://huntingnut.com/index.php?name=PointBlank

Its free, allows you to organize your data via Caliber, Firearm, Load and Targets. You can also compute trajectories if you have enough data. It has a huge database of most powders, bullets, cases ... ect.

If you have questions, suggestions or whatever just pm me. 

-DallanC


----------



## Bax* (Dec 14, 2008)

Dallan's method is pretty good, but I prefer to do this










Seriously though, I showed you a very small snippet of what I use to track my loads.

I literally cut out the target I shot, tape it in a notebook and record everything I can. Brass, primer, powder charge, bullet, OAL, temperature, humidity, wind speed, wind direction, time of year, and altitude. All of these things can be helpful depending on what conditions you are loading for.

But thats just my insanity coming out too


----------



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

I got my first batch loaded tonight that I have done by myself. I picked up the Barnes manual, sure enough it shows 10 or so different powder options compared to only two listed online, and some H4895 powder yesterday, crap this is getting expensive! 
They sure look perty! 30-06 Barnes TTSX 150 gr with Hodgdon H4895. Going to try them out on Saturday. My kids just loved watching and helping with depriming.


----------



## chet (Sep 7, 2007)

from the pic it looks like you seated the bullets quite deep. I'm just curious as to why? Also, seating deep can cause high pressures (one of the main reasons you always hear "start low"). be careful.


----------



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

Manual shows 2.94-3.34, so I did 3.140 right in the middle. That angle of the pic makes them look extra deep. Where do you usually start?


----------



## Critter (Mar 20, 2010)

I usually start with a factory round as a starting point for my bullet seating depths. That way you know that they should fit into the magazine of the rifle. Then if I am satisfied with the accuracy with the round I'll do a little experimenting with the bullet seated a little further out or in, just to see what it can do.


----------



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

I went and tried them out and they were a little tough chambering. There is no visible difference in the OAL, but Ill see what the micrometer says, thanks for the info guys!


----------



## Critter (Mar 20, 2010)

If they are a little hard when you try and chamber the round turn the sizing die down a little bit more. It sounds like the case isn't being resized enough. I'm not sure if the new Barnes manual has the information in it for setting up the sizing die for your rifle but I know that the older ones do. 

What you want to do is try a resized case in your rifle. If it goes in hard you need to adjust the sizing die down a eighth of a turn and then try another case. Do this until the case goes into the chamber of your rifle with very little effort.


----------

