# my turn to ask a few snowmobile questions



## flyfisher117 (Jun 29, 2009)

firt my sleds a 74 artic cat el tigre 5000 (which means its a 500cc) and thats about all i know. its my dads and its sat for years and i dug it out and got it running.

#1 whats a good rpm range for it to idle in? im gussing 1800 to 2500 but im not sure.

#2 right now it idles at about 2500 rpm and it wont move untill its at about 5500 to 6000 rpm so im thinking that it needs a new belt? (no not track i mean the belt in next to the engine)

#3 how do i know when i have the fuel to air mixture right for both carbs? i wana get max performance but i cant really afford a shop visit right now. being 16 i just dont have the money.

#4 the skis need new skags but again i cant afford any. what do i need to do to build some? it goes fine without them but when i get on any ice or very very hard packed snow it dont turn worth poo.

any and all help is welcome.

thanks


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## deadicatedweim (Dec 18, 2007)

My sleds have usually idled around 800 to 1200 rpm. Open the cover for the clutches and see if the clutch is engaging or closing in when you give it gas. Good chance your belt is just shot but if the clutches aren't engaging you may need a rebuild or new springs.

I would back out the air mixture screws and count how many turns it takes and then set both carbs the same. Check the plugs to see what color they are and adjust the screws to the best color on the plugs and sound of the motor. Hope that may help.


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## hyperduc (Sep 18, 2009)

Sled should idle around 800-1200. 

If the it won't move until 5k or higher, open the hood and verify that the primary clutch is closing. If its not then the clutch will need to be rebuilt. 

The only way you will be able to tune the carbs is to run it at WOT and then check the plugs, they should be milk chocolate colored. If they are black you need to drop the needle or jet size, if they are white your need to do the opposite. seriously this sled just running is "max performance"

You could always use a grinder to sharpen your wear bars if the carbides have worn off.


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## flyfisher117 (Jun 29, 2009)

hyperduc said:


> Sled should idle around 800-1200.
> 
> If the it won't move until 5k or higher, open the hood and verify that the primary clutch is closing. If its not then the clutch will need to be rebuilt.
> 
> ...


yea my dad about messed his pants when i started it and rode it up to the house on the 7 year old gas that was left in it. id just like to get it running good enough to take me to the local sledding hill and ride around there. but it only has 3000 and some original miles


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## Kevin D (Sep 15, 2007)

I've owned numerous sleds over the years and 1,800 to 2,500 rpm idle speed on these engines is normal as is a 4,500 to 5,000 rpm clutch engagement speed. As long as everything is functional I wouldn't mess with it. You may try to lubricate the rollers and weights on your clutch with a light weight oil to lower the clutch engagement speed, paticularly if it hasn't been run for a few years. I doubt a $200 clutch rebuild is worth the money on a sled that old.

As far as skags, if you can weld you can build your own out of 3/8" rod. If you want to spend the time, you can weld studs on to the rod for easier replacement. Though again, on a sled that old I would probably weld the rod right to the metal ski then grind it off again if it ever needs replacing.

The thing to remember, is that you have a 35 year old sled whose market value is around $300 or less. Unless you have some sentimental attachment to it, it's not one I'd dump a whole lot of money into. Odds are that you have bearings that are bad, rubber o-rings and gaskets that have deteriorated, as well as wiring and fuel lines that are brittle and cracked. Keeping that sled functional is going to be an ongoing challenge. So unless you are up to a total restoration, my advise is to ride that pony until it dies then move on.


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## flyfisher117 (Jun 29, 2009)

Kevin D said:


> I've owned numerous sleds over the years and 1,800 to 2,500 rpm idle speed on these engines is normal as is a 4,500 to 5,000 rpm clutch engagement speed. As long as everything is functional I wouldn't mess with it. You may try to lubricate the rollers and weights on your clutch with a light weight oil to lower the clutch engagement speed, paticularly if it hasn't been run for a few years. I doubt a $200 clutch rebuild is worth the money on a sled that old.
> 
> As far as skags, if you can weld you can build your own out of 3/8" rod. If you want to spend the time, you can weld studs on to the rod for easier replacement. Though again, on a sled that old I would probably weld the rod right to the metal ski then grind it off again if it ever needs replacing.
> 
> The thing to remember, is that you have a 35 year old sled whose market value is around $300 or less. Unless you have some sentimental attachment to it, it's not one I'd dump a whole lot of money into. Odds are that you have bearings that are bad, rubber o-rings and gaskets that have deteriorated, as well as wiring and fuel lines that are brittle and cracked. Keeping that sled functional is going to be an ongoing challenge. So unless you are up to a total restoration, my advise is to ride that pony until it dies then move on.


yea 7 or so years ago when my dad got it out and running we replaced the fueld lines and he had a bunch of new gaskets and everything for it that he had bought way back when and they were still in good condition so we put them on then but im 16 and just want something to mess around on dont wana blow all my money on a new one just to ride it for a few months out of the year


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## hyperduc (Sep 18, 2009)

Kevin D said:


> I've owned numerous sleds over the years and 1,800 to 2,500 rpm idle speed on these engines is normal as is a 4,500 to 5,000 rpm clutch engagement speed.


I think we need to make the distinction that normal on your sleds and normal on his sled is obviously two different things. That 500 should start to engage much sooner than that, and from the factory specs should idle around 1200. On a primary that old you can be sure that the spring has had it, which means it should be softer and therfore engage earlier. The fact that it isnt is indicative of a different issue, it could be rusted main shaft, primary weights or a broken spring. Pull it apart and lube it thoroughly.

As for the high idle, there should be a carb pulley stop screw that can be adjusted to drop the idle rpm, if it doesnt want to run at that lower rpm you will need to lean out the pilot circuit.

Honestly though, if your going to be smart and not take this thing where it doesn't belong and chance leaving yourself stranded in the middle of nowhere. Then just run it as is until it blows up.


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## flyfisher117 (Jun 29, 2009)

yea i just want to get it running good so it can take me the half mile from my house thos this big open field and ride it around and pull people around on tubes and stuff thats about it


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