# Ford brake question



## truemule (Sep 12, 2007)

So my truck had some pulsation when I braked. I realized I would need to have the rotors and calipers checked out but didn't think to much of it right then. Well I just drove to the store and back for some honey do's. The truck felt almost like I was driving with the parking brake partially on, and lurched when driving at a slow speed. It also pulled to the left while driving but straightened out while coming to a stop. When I got home I felt the rotors with my hand and the right front rotor was hotter than Sh!^. Anyway I'm thinking the caliper is going. Since I have never had a caliper go out I was wondering if that sounds right. Also any suggestions on what to check when I get the wheel off tomorrow and see whats going on?

BTW its a 2000 ford F-250 7.3diesel,

Thanks,


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## huntnbum (Nov 8, 2007)

I'm sorry you drive a Ford -_O- 

But seriously, I think you may have a bad rotor?
Any one else agree?
I'm no mechanic, but a good rebuild sounds in order. 

Had to rebuild my fronts this summer on my 4Runner. made the world of difference.
Good luck.


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## truemule (Sep 12, 2007)

huntnbum said:


> I'm sorry you drive a Ford -_O-
> 
> But seriously, I think you may have a bad rotor?
> Any one else agree?
> ...


That brings upa asecond question I forgot to ask. How can you tell if a rebuild will work or if the caliper will need to be replaced?


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## huntnbum (Nov 8, 2007)

I replaced my calipers when I rebuilt.
If the calipers get warped, they will never be the same. it's not worth turning them.
New ones are not that expensive, and I spent a few extra dollars and bought the heat treated ones as well.


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## truemule (Sep 12, 2007)

huntnbum said:


> I replaced my *calipers* when I rebuilt.
> If the *calipers* get warped, they will never be the same. it's not worth turning them.
> New ones are not that expensive, and I spent a few extra dollars and bought the heat treated ones as well.


Dont you mean rotors?


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## huntnbum (Nov 8, 2007)

Yes I do, sorry


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## El Matador (Dec 21, 2007)

I'll second the advice about buying new rotors. Having them turned is ok for a short term fix, but they will warp a lot easier the second time. 

When you get your stuff taken apart, you can check the caliper to see if one of the pistons is seized. After removing the pads, you should be able to compress the pistons back into the caliper with some channel lock pliers. If they won't move, get a set of rebuilt calipers from autozone. A good trick when you replace calipers: With vise-grips, clamp off the soft brake lines before you disconnect the brake lines from the calipers. Have someone help you bleed the brakes: After getting the calipers hooked back on to the hub/rotor, loosen the bleeder valve, have someone pump the brake pedal until its firm and continue pushing. Undo the vise grips. All the air and some brake fluid will shoot out, close the valve. If you don't clamp off the lines, you may get bubbles up into your hard lines and it will take longer to bleed.

While you have it apart, check for play in your ball joints and wheel bearings. Depending on your tire size and driving habits, these will likely need to be replaced somewhere in the 60-100k range. Make sure your hubs spin freely, a roasted wheel bearing could cause some of the symptoms you describe.


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