# Do you agree or disagree with this guy about broadhead tuning?



## colorcountrygunner (Oct 6, 2009)

http://onlineathens.com/sports/outd...ing-field-tips-practice-exactly-what-you-hunt

The following is a quote from this article:

"The first thing to address is making sure your bow is tuned. Have a bow tech tune your equipment, and then make sure you shoot your bow in the presence of your bow tech. 
You may then notice that your field points group well. Your broadheads will also group well, but they don't have the same point of impact at the target. This is a simple fix - just move and mark your sight with tape or a marker like a sharpie for the different heads."

What do you make of this guys quote that once your bow is tuned either by yourself or a shop that instead of moving your rest to broadhead tune that you instead move the sights as to not mess up your tune? I have never heard this before.


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## bow_dude (Aug 20, 2009)

I have had some broad heads that I could not make shoot to the exact same spot as a field point. Generally they are very close, but not exact. At one point during my practice, I will shoot exclusively the broad heads. I am interested in group tuning to get the tightest group. I will move the sight as needed after I get the broad heads hitting in the tightest group I can. I expect precision when I shoot. I will post a 3/4 inch dot and expect to hit it at 20 yards. When I am punching it with the broad head, generally I am within 1/2 inch with a field tip. Then I move out to 30 and 40 yards and beyond and move the sight as needed. Usually it is very small tweaks. I usually don't shoot the field tips any more until after the hunt is ended. I have two bows, so I can shoot one bow for practice with field tips just to keep my muscles toned up. So yes, I guess you could say I have heard of this and use this method. I don't believe he is talking big differences. 

I have also found that shooting with a glove on the bow hand will make the arrow impact differently as well as having a bow quiver on vs not having one on. That is why I use a hip quiver. I also make sure I use the same release, as switching releases will cause the arrow to impact differently. If you are shooting 6 inch groups at 20 yard, or even 4 inch groups, likely you will never see the differences.


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## Old Fudd (Nov 24, 2007)

Again. I shoot the Old Bear Razors without the insert. Once in a great while I get one that when shooting my 3 D target that goes Haywire. In most cases it's me Poopin out.or a slight bend that you cannot pick up with the naked eye. 145 grain, been shooting these for over 50 years. one thing I will say the WORST broadhead I've ever shot. 125 Grain 3 or 4 blade . Sattilites HORRIBLE!


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## bow_dude (Aug 20, 2009)

Old Fudd... I shot the 125 grain 3 blade satellite for a few years. Killed my first deer and first elk with them. They would shoot well enough, just couldn't keep the blades in place. Almost always lost one or two inside the critter. Really had to be careful when cleaning the animal that you didn't bump into one of the blades floating around inside the chest cavity. I have shot a lot of different brands over the years. Have settled on the Magnus Stingers and Buzz Cuts the last few years.


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## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

Its like a firearm. I want nice tight groups. Its rare two different loads have the same POI so I shift the scope back and forth.

Trying to get blades to hit same POI as field tips is harder to do... but if they are grouping nice and tight, its easy to shift the sight.


-DallanC


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## blazingsaddle (Mar 11, 2008)

To the original question- Its the lazy way to "tune" broadheads, but yes it works for the intended purpose. But in reality your not tuning anything. All you are doing is changing the point of impact for the BH.
I like having my broad heads hit where my field tips do. This way, once both have the same POI, I can shoot field tips for practice during the season, not having to shoot BHs for practice. You will shoot a lot more this way.

With minor rest/nock point tweeking, its pretty easy to get most BHs and field tips to have the same POI. This ia assuming your arrows have the correct spine.

It was taught to me that a hunting bow should be tuned for a BH, not a field tip. Field tips are very forgiving when compared to a BH. So it makes sense to tune your bow to your BH over your field tip.


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## APD (Nov 16, 2008)

this is the one place that short arms win...broadhead tuning. the longer the arrow the more chance to get a large shift in poi. i have a few short armed friends that rarely have to BH tune. they are close enough to just shift the sights a little if at all. i took the even easier route with my 30" draw and shoot mechanicals that hit my exact field tip POI. though now that i've fixed my spine issues and bare shaft tuned, my BH are near spot on as well. its so close that i will shift my sights if i decide to shoot them.


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## High Desert Elk (Aug 21, 2012)

We used to shoot the Bear Razorhrads, but can't find them anymore. And the days of Satellite broadheads, man o man!

I recently tuned my bow to broadheads by moving my rest ever so slightly, like 1/32 of an inch or so and now FP's and BH's hit the same. Having the tools at home like a press, draw board, and vise are handy.


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## Old Fudd (Nov 24, 2007)

Satellites always.. no matter what I would do, shoot left left left.and man did I hate the inserts.I was looking on Trad Archery Page. They rated them the worst Broadhead ever made.I myself think the Browning Serpintine meat cloggers were horrible, no blood trail with them bad boys. look cool thats it/


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## AF CYN (Mar 19, 2009)

I disagree with the author's statement. In fact, I'd argue that broadheads and field tips hitting in the same spot is proof that the bow IS tuned. However, I agree with pretty much everything else he said in the article.


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## Chugg (Nov 16, 2015)

If your not able to shoot a fixed blade broad head then a field tip to the exact same spot your bow is not in tune. It is wasting energy if they're not impacting the same. To get within inches to only move the sight shows a lack of understanding and commitment. Same exact poi or something is wrong. Tune, spine,fletching contact,form,grip pressure something for sure.


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## swbuckmaster (Sep 14, 2007)

Tested several broadheads over the years and my broadheads always hit the same spot as my field tips out to 80 yards. My kids broadheads always hit the same spot as their field tips so no I don't agree to moving your sight. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## colorcountrygunner (Oct 6, 2009)

I figured the guy was a dunce for saying that. I have been trying to broadhead tune some fixed blades and it is giving me fits! The broadhead hits about 4 inches to the right of my field point every time. I move the rest to the left 1/16th of an inch as I have been instructed to do and instead of moving the POI of my broadheads and field tips together they both move to the left by the same amount. I thought maybe I had moved the rest in the wrong direction so I tried the other direction and then both points move by the same amount in the other direction.  So frustrating! I'm about to say screw and just plug in a mechanical. Rage in the cage baby! It's like throwing an axe through the animal!


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## High Desert Elk (Aug 21, 2012)

Have you tried yoke tuning if applicable? That might do it.


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## swbuckmaster (Sep 14, 2007)

If the bow is properly tunned look at fletching size and arrow weight. You don't want the tail wagging the dog. 

One way to check bow tune is with a bare shaft through paper at 5 to 7 yards. If your form is consistant the tear will be consistant. Most people don't rely on paper tears because they do it to close to the paper and it gives a false reading. If you fix the tear at its greatest point your broadhead will group with fieldtips if you have enough control on the back. 
Now no two arrows will tear the same!!! Unless you nock tune them!!! 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## colorcountrygunner (Oct 6, 2009)

I haven't tried yoke tuning High Desert Elk. I'm kind of an archery newb. Buckmaster I don't know if my fletching size and arrow weight is the problem but maybe. The arrows are Cabelas carbon stalker extremes. They have 4 inch plastifletch vanes on them and my total arrow weight is 425 grains. Spine is 340. 27.5 inch draw length, 70 lb draw weight, 100 grain head. I think my arrows are either 28.5 or 29 inches.


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## swbuckmaster (Sep 14, 2007)

Sounds like your arrow vanes are big enough. Arrow weight is also good. Shouldn't be wagging the dog. 

How long are your arrows?
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## swbuckmaster (Sep 14, 2007)

Check your spine. I don't know what your bow ibo rating is. Maybe your approaching a weak spine if your arrows were cut longer and have a fast bow. 
https://www.goldtip.com/arrowcontent.aspx?page=chart

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## alpinebowman (Sep 24, 2007)

it is easy to get your slow bow to BH tune scott :grin:. My wife's bow is much more forgiving than even my bow. Once you get above 280 FPS tune form and setup issues are magnified.



swbuckmaster said:


> Tested several broadheads over the years and my broadheads always hit the same spot as my field tips out to 80 yards. My kids broadheads always hit the same spot as their field tips so no I don't agree to moving your sight.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## alpinebowman (Sep 24, 2007)

yeah you will want to take 1/2 twist out of the quiver side yolk and add a 1/2 twist to the shelf side and that should start moving the BH to the left for you. At some point it might be a 1/2 twist on one side only be be sure to maintain it as even as possible so you don't mess up the cam timing.



colorcountrygunner said:


> I haven't tried yoke tuning High Desert Elk. I'm kind of an archery newb. Buckmaster I don't know if my fletching size and arrow weight is the problem but maybe. The arrows are Cabelas carbon stalker extremes. They have 4 inch plastifletch vanes on them and my total arrow weight is 425 grains. Spine is 340. 27.5 inch draw length, 70 lb draw weight, 100 grain head. I think my arrows are either 28.5 or 29 inches.


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## bow_dude (Aug 20, 2009)

Opinions.... Opinions.... Opinions. Who is to say which is right? So.. for what it is worth, here is mine. I haven't owned a bow with a yoke for a few years. When I did, the only thing I used a yoke for was to correct cam lean. I have always made sure that the center shot is set correctly first. That has always taken care of any issues for me. My preference is using the French tuning method for setting center shot. Walk back tuning works well, but because of limited space, I French Tune. I use a piece of blue tape that measures 1.5 inches square and shoot arrows at 20 yards to check arrow flight comparisons between field tips and broad heads. I also fletch with feathers rather than vanes. I believe feathers give better arrow control. I try to achieve about a 12% FOC. Currently my arrows are 11.7 F.O.C. This tuning system has always worked extremely well for me. I recently put together a video of the arrow setup and bow tuning method I use. If interested, I will send you a link. My arrows are hitting very well as you will see in the video. PM me if interested.


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## bow_dude (Aug 20, 2009)

Colorcountry... pm replied to. Let me know if you did not get it.


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## bezog (Apr 29, 2015)

OK. So I have a question. I have walk back tuned my bow from 10 back to 40 yards with my field points. Everything is hitting center. I just picked up some broadheads and plan on tuning them tomorrow. If the broadheads are grouping tight, but have a different POI from my field points, do I still adjust my rest? Or, would what the guy says in this article (move and mark the sight) make more sense to do?


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## middlefork (Nov 2, 2008)

If your bow is tuned they should have the same POI. If they don't at this late date I would just move the sight.


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## bezog (Apr 29, 2015)

middlefork said:


> If your bow is tuned they should have the same POI. If they don't at this late date I would just move the sight.


Tried them today, and they had almost the exact POI, so I was happy with it.


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