# Bringing Birds Back



## SidVicious (Aug 19, 2014)

I have a two year old lab that loves to hunt and get birds, but she will only bring them back part way. She will get almost all the way back, and then just stop and hold it. When I do get the bird from her, she runs around wanting me to throw it for her like I would with the training dummy. I get the feeling it's a possession thing, and she doesn't want to give it to me because I won't throw it again, and she would rather just hold it. I have tried moving away from her while calling and encouraging her to come to me, but she keeps that same distance unless I walk out to her and she gives it to me. Any suggestions on how to get her to bring it back all the way?


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## Cazador (Sep 4, 2014)

When I trained my Lab I used a length of rope I think it was 50 feet tied to her collar. I would have her sit before the throw and stay until I released her to go for the fetch. The rope was used to stop her from taking off after the dummy before she was released. If she took off before the release I made her sit again and wait usually about 20-30 seconds, but we worked up to being able to sit for 10 minutes between the throw to the actual retrieve. The rope would also work for your problem, if after the retrieve she doesn't want to bring the dummy back to you then you have the rope to be able to compel her to come back to you and give you the dummy. It will take a while for her to get the hang of it and break those old habits and form some new ones. 

With this method I was able to get my lab to the point where she will sit in the blind until I release her to go and get the birds and she will bring them straight back to me. 

Hopefully this method will be able to help you with your pup. Good Luck!


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## gdog (Sep 13, 2007)

Cazador said:


> When I trained my Lab I used a length of rope I think it was 50 feet tied to her collar. I would have her sit before the throw and stay until I released her to go for the fetch. The rope was used to stop her from taking off after the dummy before she was released. If she took off before the release I made her sit again and wait usually about 20-30 seconds, but we worked up to being able to sit for 10 minutes between the throw to the actual retrieve. The rope would also work for your problem, if after the retrieve she doesn't want to bring the dummy back to you then you have the rope to be able to compel her to come back to you and give you the dummy. It will take a while for her to get the hang of it and break those old habits and form some new ones.
> 
> With this method I was able to get my lab to the point where she will sit in the blind until I release her to go and get the birds and she will bring them straight back to me.
> 
> Hopefully this method will be able to help you with your pup. Good Luck!


Plus...if she is e-collar conditioned...you transition from the rope/lead...to the collar. Just make sure she knows the game 100% before reinforcing with the collar.


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## Mtnsurf (Aug 30, 2012)

Sounds to me like the dog would benefit from going through the force fetch process. They need to learn that retrieving is a job no matter what and every bird gets delivered to hand. Luckily for them it's a job that they are bred for and love to do... it's worth hiring a pro trainer to help if you need to, force fetch is a pretty intense process but it produces a next level hunting dog.
I would second the check cord, that will help with getting the dog back to you...


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## Airborne (May 29, 2009)

I second the e-collar--maybe a bit different that gdog but here is what I do: I run tri-tronics collars which can beep or shock (at varying levels). I train my dogs to come to me when they hear the beep. Dogs take to it really easily and it's like having a remote controlled dog. I teach the dog to stop at the shock which helps reiterate the point in some instances--this is when a dog knows the game but gets a little to eager and creeps in on birds. Never do this to a young dog.

I have had times where my pointers are fetching a bird and they get hesitant to bring it all the way to hand--after all, I am taking away their trophy! I give them the beep and they immediately come the rest of the way. There is no negative reaction to the beep and they follow orders.

I find this collar training to be the best method for me. I don't know how many others use this method but it makes sense. Beep to come, shock to stop.


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## gdog (Sep 13, 2007)

Airborne....same...my dogs come on the "beep. Works great.


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## SidVicious (Aug 19, 2014)

This is great info! Thank you! Does anyone know of good resources to learn about the force fetching process? That is one I have never delved into before.


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## utahnate (Jul 11, 2011)

SidVicious said:


> This is great info! Thank you! Does anyone know of good resources to learn about the force fetching process? That is one I have never delved into before.


Lots of good books out their on how to train your gun dog with the force fetch method.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mtnsurf (Aug 30, 2012)

Nothing beats having someone who knows help you personally, but I like the "5-minute" retriever book. It talks a bit about force fetch in a pretty simple manner. The best thing I've seen in a while is Freddy King's YouTube series where he shows taking a dog through his entire hunting dog program. Look it up it's around 20+ videos which are great and well done, and he covers a great force fetch method in there...


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## Spry Yellowdog (Sep 8, 2007)

Force fetching is not a quick weekend course. It will take time and commitment. Also don't just strap a collar on your dog and start shocking it if they don't do as asked. Shocking a dog with a bird in its mouth when it has not been properly collar conditioned will just add to the problem. The **** bird keeps shocking me! Teach the dog what is expected. Use the check cord as mentioned. Get some quality training material, follow it closely and take a year to get it done. Short cuts in training always show up later.
Good Luck.

Spry


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## ZEKESMAN (Sep 14, 2007)

I would add that if you have a very strong recall first it will help with this problem. There is a great club up your way. Contact the Weber River Retriever Club. [email protected] They are probably out hunting now but they have training days etc. Vic

And when you get the dog back to you on the cord DON'T rip the bird out of its mouth. Let it hang on for a minute, love it up tell it it's the best dog in the world. Make it want to bring it back.


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## Winglish (Mar 28, 2015)

Have the dog force fetched by someone who knows how to do it. Spry Yellow Dog in this thread might be a good place to start ;0)

The check cord is a good idea. Get that dog used to coming in and then transition to collar. I use a Dogtra collar so there is vibration instead of beeping. I do the same thing as mentioned previously- I use the vibration for calling the dog to me and a shock if he does not want to obey immediately. I have not had to shock in years.


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## Gumbo (Sep 22, 2007)

Before force fetch, I would work on recall. The dog has to learn:

1) If it doesn't bring the bumper back to you, the game's over for a few hours. When working with it, if it doesn't bring you the bumper, put the dog away. The game only continues if it brings you the bumper. Be disciplined, be consistent, and don't be afraid to put the dog away, then try again in a few more hours.
2) COME or HERE means it makes a beeline at full speed to a heel. The dog learns that good things happen when they're at a heel.

I like using 'force to COME' to reinforce this command. Force FETCH is using the same force technique on fetch/no-fetch/drop. But first it has to be disciplined to COME and HEEL.


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## rlpenn (Mar 14, 2012)

The short answer to your question is "here"! 

Your dog's obedience is not where it needs to be.

The training materials that got me started were a couple DVDs: "Training a Retriever Puppy" and "The Fetch Command" with Bill Hillmann. If you are able to follow the directions on the DVD(s), you will end up with a dog that has a strong "sit," "here/come" and "fetch." In the DVDs he shows some retrievers being trained over the course of 3 or 4 months using an e-collar. I had never ever trained a gun dog before when I got my Labrador puppy, and I am super pleased with how she turned out. I thought it was a lot of fun doing the training sessions.

His methods work great for retrievers that have a strong retrieving desire. Here is a excerpt:






Good luck!


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## ZEKESMAN (Sep 14, 2007)

rlpenn said:


> The short answer to your question is "here"!
> 
> Your dog's obedience is not where it needs to be.
> 
> ...


His methods also help bring out the desire in pups that show a lack of interest


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