# Speed Loader Options & Recommendations



## justismi28 (Aug 19, 2014)

Time to beat an old horse.

I've tried pretty much every speed loader out there right now for *loose powder*, and have settled on the fact that I can't find the perfect one. In fact, about 7 years ago I moisture tested 4 different options by loading them and putting them in a cup of water for the day. I thought I had the one with the green CVA tubes. Short and easy, sealed great. Durable so they didn't bend. But with one in my pocket and others in my waist belt I've found that after a couple days hiking the loose powder worked up next to the sabot and caused the bullet to get stuck. I would have to loudly tap it out to or push the ramrod through it. In reality, it cost me a follow up shot on a very nice bull that I missed a few years back in the thick timber.

The last couple years I've been using a simple tube of powder and the bullet separate. If there is a more convenient (read faster) way to store my loads I'd love to explore it. So what speed loader options are you all using with *loose powder*?


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## Critter (Mar 20, 2010)

I just use the Thompson Center ones, and usually only have two of them in a shirt pocket. If the animal isn't down after 3 shots you really have no business shooting much anymore. 

But after saying that, on my last muzzle loader elk hunt my first shot was a miss. The next two hit the elk and I was down to getting the makings out of my pack. The third shot was also a hit and I was getting the forth shot loaded when he toppled over. 

The bull was hit 3 out of 4 times and any of the shots were kill shots, he just stood there after the first miss which allowed me to reload but as the old saying goes, if they are still standing keep shooting. 

On the TC speed loaders, they hold the powder and a bullet but with a sabot/bullet combination the bullet sticks out of the bottom but I have had no problems with anything falling apart on them. The loader also serves as a bullet starter. There is also a place to place a 209 primer or a cap, but I just use a primer holder that also doubles as a ramrod cap to help load the round.

The main thing is that you need to practice reloading so that there are no hitches in the get a long when the time comes.


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## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

I've used the CVA's for 20+ years now, love them. I've never had powder get between the sabot and outer wall. I've never had an issue ramming it all through either, but I do use ALOT of force to get it all down the first time.

I guess the next question is what powder are you using that is causing issues? Until last year, I exclusively used Pyrodex RS, its light fluffy stuff that cant possibly jam up a round in a speed loader. I used BH209 last year, its a harder grain but I noticed no issues with it other than its FILTHY.

I used to be able to reload and fire in 12 seconds before I got old and slow. I can still get it loaded and fire in well under 20sec. The bolt mod I did on my 700ML made replacing the spent primer 10x as easy. 

-DallanC


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## bowgy (Oct 10, 2007)

I have just used the plastic speed loaders and haven't had any issues as you described.

I usually carry 6 speed loaders in a multi pocket waist/fanny pack worn backwards with all the pockets in front.

The last elk that I got with a muzzle loader I shot just behind the left shoulder, he jumped and started walking to my right, I told my friend to watch him as I reloaded, I looked up and he was in the same spot only facing to my right, I asked my friend if it was the same bull and said, yes, he just turned around and walked back, I was excited and probably rushed the second shot, I said I pulled it to the right and hit him in the right shoulder, he dropped but popped right back up and walked away from us, I reloaded and we followed him, found him about 150 yards down the hill laying down, he saw us and started to get up, he was slightly quartering towards me so I put the dot on the back of his right shoulder and pressed the trigger just as he was fully up but his right leg gave out and I thought I shot over him. He laid there as I reloaded, I didn't have a good shot so I backed off while I had my friend stand there and told him to move a little every so often to keep the elks attention, I circled around and came up on his right side and slightly behind him, got within 50 yards and shot him in the back of the neck just below the head, that killed him. I found out that my third shot had hit him in the spine.

So I used half of my speed loaders. I guess 4 since I reloaded again after the last shot just in case.


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## justismi28 (Aug 19, 2014)

I've attached a picture that is an example of what happened. I just loaded this one up and shook it a bit to see if I could replicate it bouncing in a pocket and produce the same results.

This is BH209 with a 290gr Barnes TMZ in a Harvester Yellow Crushed Rib sabot. The sabot ends up getting lodged there and I have to tap it to get it out or push it all down through the tube with the ramrod.

When it comes to reloading I was really proficient with these and practiced for years with them. Never had to take a follow up shot that required a quick reload as my kills were mostly one shot drops and I wasn't missing. When I missed that bull and went to get reloaded, this flustered me and I made to much noise. The video shows I had over a minute before I watched the bull run away through my scope after finally getting reloaded. It's still a painful memory.

Ever since that hunt, I've tried a couple different options with a scientific plastic tube being the most successful but I'm still gunshy about having my powder and bullet in one tube.

I have tried the red TC before, but didn't like how flimsy they were and had one open on up on my pack and dump powder everywhere. Stopped using them after that.























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## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

justismi28 said:


> ... or push it all down through the tube with the ramrod.


Uhhh that *IS* how these are supposed to be used. How are you doing it?

You are supposed to pop the powder end off with your thumb (mine have exposed writing on the end, so I do it by feel), place over your barrel and loose powder falls in, thumb off the bullet end again with your thumb, other hand starts ramrod down through the speedloader and into the barrel shoving the bullet down.

I've never had a case where the bullet was harder to push through than pushing it down the barrel.

-DallanC


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## Critter (Mar 20, 2010)

I have never had any problems with the TC loaders, but then I only carry a couple of them in my pocket. If it comes time to get them out of a pack the animal will be long gone. 

But then I aslo hunt with a single shot rifle and pistol a lot where you have to make sure that the first shot is a good one and if you get a second shot it is usually at a running animal 

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## justismi28 (Aug 19, 2014)

I've never _had _to push the bullet down through. I pop the powder end, pour it down and the bullet typically falls through deep enough to seat the bottom of the sabot. I pull the ramrod and push it down. While I know pushing it all the way through is how it's "supposed" to be used, it adds a second to the reload popping the other top and holding the tube over the barrel. Through all my practice, I found it to be an unnecessary step that I could potentially fumble.

I'm not looking for what I did wrong when I missed a reload on that bull. I replay that miss and scenario in my head almost every day. I'm looking for speedloader options I may not be aware of to increase my effectiveness.

Ultimately, In my opinion, it comes down to the fact that I can have grains of powder get lodged between sabot and speedloader, that won't end up in the loaded charge no matter if I use how it's 'supposed' to be used. That is a failure on the part of the speedloader. There is enough variability in muzzleloading, if I can create more consistency with my charges I'm going to.


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## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

justismi28 said:


> I've never _had _to push the bullet down through. I pop the powder end, pour it down and the bullet typically falls through deep enough to seat the bottom of the sabot. I pull the ramrod and push it down. While I know pushing it all the way through is how it's "supposed" to be used, it adds a second to the reload popping the other top and holding the tube over the barrel. Through all my practice, I found it to be an unnecessary step that I could potentially fumble.


Fair enough. For me however, its faster and more reliable as the bullet remains under control the entire time as its transfered from the speedloader to the barrel. pouring it out and hoping to catch it and then ram it down the barrel seems more likely for things to go sideways



> I'm not looking for what I did wrong when I missed a reload on that bull. I replay that miss and scenario in my head almost every day. I'm looking for speedloader options I may not be aware of to increase my effectiveness.


It stings... forever, when you miss a chance like that. You always replay it in your mind and the "could have / should have" scenarios. I dont believe the reload caused your loss... it was during the first shot things went bad.



> Ultimately, In my opinion, it comes down to the fact that I can have grains of powder get lodged between sabot and speedloader, that won't end up in the loaded charge no matter if I use how it's 'supposed' to be used. That is a failure on the part of the speedloader. There is enough variability in muzzleloading, if I can create more consistency with my charges I'm going to.


Nah dont sweat that, MLs dont really ever get complete burns anyway. This isnt centerfire and you will ODC yourself to death over minute issues that really wont matter. In fact, lay out a white sheet... or shoot over some fresh white snow. You will see unburned powder left all over. The higher the charge, the more unburned powder you will see.

-DallanC


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## justismi28 (Aug 19, 2014)

DallanC said:


> lay out a white sheet... or shoot over some fresh white snow. You will see unburned powder left all over. The higher the charge, the more unburned powder you will see.
> -DallanC


I actually do know this as I've shot over snow a lot. It's also prevalent on a chronograph if you shoot over one enough. It's one of the reasons I don't get the Remington UML 150gr plus craze. My shoulder doesn't like it, and you are literally throwing money out the barrel.

I think you are a developer\engineer also, so my mindset is always reducing variability to increase predictability. If 70gr by weight burns at a 93% rate, when you drop down below that 70gr does the burn rate correlate directly? In my mind I know that such a minute amount makes next to no difference, but I strive for reduce that variability for increased success.

Honestly, I'm just bored with work today and excited for this coming September.:grin: I drew a Southwest Desert pronghorn tag this year, and am really ramping up my shooting and reloading practice now. I shoot all year, but July is when I really start to practice from field positions and reloading in those positions at varying distances from 20-300 yds. In the winter and early spring, I enjoy shooting off a bench and seeing if I can ring my gong at 300+.


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## scattergun (Jul 26, 2013)

I thought I would try the new Thompson mag charger (don't know how to post pics from another source) . This is the first time muzzleloader hunting in about 14 years so I am buying all new gear. got a couple old speed loaders I'll throw in just in case.


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