# Reloading the .223



## KineKilla (Jan 28, 2011)

I've been saving brass from my .223 and planned on reloading it once I get the equipment.

Has anyone had an issue reloading and reusing brass that was shot out of an AR style rifle? My concern is the small dent that the shell deflector leaves when ejecting the brass. Does this cause an issue?

** OH! Also, what is everyone's preferred case trimmer? All things considered (price, time, hassle) what is the best bang for the buck?


----------



## reb8600 (Sep 8, 2007)

There is no issue with using them. The dent is not an issue and will disappear after it is fired in a bolt gun. It will not be a problem using it in an AR again either. I reload them all the time for my AR. Make sure you full length resize them.


----------



## Al Hansen (Sep 7, 2007)

Same as reb. I use the Forester trimmer my Dad used 30 + years ago.


----------



## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

I use the cheap LEE trimmers in a power drill. It goes really fast. Leave it to LEE to come up with cheap good solutions to problems.


-DallanC


----------



## waspocrew (Nov 26, 2011)

As was mentioned before- full length size if they are going to be used in an AR. 

I've been a fan of the hornady trimmer but there are more options out there! 

Just a heads up- you might find some of your brass has crimped primers- you'll have to remove the crimp before you can put a fresh primer in.


----------



## Springville Shooter (Oct 15, 2010)

If you plan on reloading for an AR or other semi-auto, you might want to look into a set of Small Base Dies. I used them and have had no issues feeding etc. I did end up with some tight fits when full length sizing with standard 223 dies.---------SS


----------



## reb8600 (Sep 8, 2007)

I have been reloading for numerous AR's for about 8 years and have never used small base dies. They are not needed. I have never had an issue either.


----------



## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

Oh yea... and don't reload American Eagle brass... that stuff is way too thin. I love Lake City and PMC brass. My heavy barrel Stag shoots .4" with 65grn Sierra's and PMC brass. Uber fun gun.

You can remove the crimp from most brass with a chamfer tool in a cordless drill. Just be careful you don't remove too much.


-DallanC


----------



## Bax* (Dec 14, 2008)

Also, your brass life will be a little shorter than that of a bolt action due to the full length sizing. But you can work up some great loads so it will be well worth it.

Dallan also brought up the crimp on the primer. I love the pocket swaging dies for this. Much faster than trying to grind them out.


----------



## HeberHunter (Nov 13, 2014)

In relation to this, which ammo is best to buy in bulk and then reload? I am mostly looking at just plinking with my ar but wouldn't mind shooting the occasional coyote or pot gut etc. I see wolf and tul ammo is about $250/1000 right now. But, you can't reload it. Some of the PMC, Fiochi, and X-Tac is in the $300/1000 range. Is that stuff worth buying and reloading?


----------



## Springville Shooter (Oct 15, 2010)

reb8600 said:


> I have been reloading for numerous AR's for about 8 years and have never used small base dies. They are not needed. I have never had an issue either.


 They might not be needed based upon the dimensions of your individual chamber and your particular FL sizing die. Then again, you might experience some tight fits and therefore benefit from small base dies. Being that the whole premise of an AR is flawless function, I choose to use small base dies. If there wasn't a legitimate reason for their use, they wouldn't make them now would they? Heck, with the right chamber you could probably neck size only and cases would feed fine.......until one didn't. The guys a Dillon Precision must be dummies because their .223 dies are small based unless specially ordered otherwise.---------SS


----------



## reb8600 (Sep 8, 2007)

I am sure someone sees a reason for SB dies but very few people loading for the AR actually use them. If you want to use them, that is up to you. I am just stating that they are not needed.

As for the Dillon 223 dies, this is what it says on their web site about them.
"Sizing/Depriming Die
The sizing/depriming die is full-length, to minimum tolerances, sizing cases down to function in semi- and full-automatic firearms."

I didnt see any that said "small base"

Also found this on Dillons web site and was posted by Dillon. I take that as meaning the SB dies are just a marketing gimmick.

"small-based dies is mostly a marketing description. Any modern reputable die maker offers dies that size a case to fit a minimum-spec chamber. Before doing anything else, size a case and see if it fully chambers, the bolt locks completely, and the case easily extracts. Often this requires running the size die down not just until it touches the shellplate, but up to 1/4-1/2 turn beyond that, to take all the play out of the linkage, toolhead, etc. A headspace case cage makes it easier to adjust the size die, as it substitutes for your chamber, and indicates where maximum and minimum headspace are."


----------



## reb8600 (Sep 8, 2007)

HeberHunter said:


> In relation to this, which ammo is best to buy in bulk and then reload? I am mostly looking at just plinking with my ar but wouldn't mind shooting the occasional coyote or pot gut etc. I see wolf and tul ammo is about $250/1000 right now. But, you can't reload it. Some of the PMC, Fiochi, and X-Tac is in the $300/1000 range. Is that stuff worth buying and reloading?


If you are going to shoot coyotes or pot guts, buy a better ammo and not the full metal jacket ammo. FMJ ammo is not made for hunting and most times just wounds the animals.


----------



## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

Yep, save FMJ for the gongs. You can buy Hornady 55grn SP bullets in bulk for around $90 per thousand for reloading, its the same price as Hornady FMJs. 

If you are going to just shoot varmints, you can get the SP bullets in 100count boxes from even walmart now if you dont reload. 


-DallanC


----------



## KineKilla (Jan 28, 2011)

reb8600 said:


> I am sure someone sees a reason for SB dies but very few people loading for the AR actually use them. If you want to use them, that is up to you. I am just stating that they are not needed.
> 
> As for the Dillon 223 dies, this is what it says on their web site about them.
> "Sizing/Depriming Die
> ...


As I said, I am just planning to START reloading...don't confuse me with too much information all at once please. I don't even know the difference between a small base and a regular die.

I'm starting with easy stuff like pistol rounds (.40 S&W and .223) then eventually my .270, 30-06 and then finally my 7mm Rem Mag.

From what I have read I have deducted the following:

Always resize using a full length die no matter the caliber. Reason: Neck sizing only is fine if you only plan to use the rounds in the same rifle over and over. I'd rather just resize the whole thing and not limit myself as I have more than one gun in certain calibers, friends with same calibers, etc.

Check case length. Every case, every time. 
Always debur the cases after trimming.
Check overall length on the first reloaded round and every 5-6 afterwards to ensure proper equipment calibration.
Follow mfr. directions on dies
Follow bullet mfr.'s suggested powder type and grain amounts (at least as a baseline/starting point). 
Magnum cartridges can be tricky to resize due to the magnum ring around the base of the cartridge.

Have I missed anything?


----------



## Bax* (Dec 14, 2008)

Great deductions Kine.

I think you picked up some good points already. If you need any help, feel free to let me know and I'd be happy to help you in person.

Do you already have a press / tools for reloading?


----------



## Bax* (Dec 14, 2008)

Also, I really would suggest buying these if you are shooting crimped / staked ammo:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/235832/rcbs-primer-pocket-swager-combo-2

Here is a video on how to use the die:






When you use military brass and don't remove the crimp around the primer pocket, you will either ruin the new primer while trying to seat it in the pocket, possibly seat it with a crushed edge, or you may just luck out and get one to seat right. But by using this tool, you can quickly get those pesky crimps out of the way.


----------



## Airborne (May 29, 2009)

For what it's worth I have reloaded over 2000 lake city mil spec brass (223 & 30-06) that all had crimped primer pockets. My boss has the Dillon super swage 600 tool that many people swear by for removing crimps. I borrowed it and compared it to using the simple chamfer/deburring tool that comes with most reloading sets. I actually found that with a couple twists of the deburring tool the crimp was easily removed and I could do it a lot faster than using the dillon super swager. I can de-crimp a brass in about 4 seconds with the deburring tool while the swager took around 10 seconds and I found no difference in primer seating. This is my experience, I am not knocking anyone that uses a dedicated de-crimping tool, I just didn't find them necessary. Maybe they give better accuracy but I have not noticed a difference in that department.

All I have ever owned is full length dies and everything that I have reloaded (correctly) has functioned flawlessly. Couple of hints--for rifles a little crimp goes a long way, don't try to crimp if the bullet doesn't have a cannelure. I don't crimp 223 as the bullets I use don't have cannelures and I have never had any issues with bullet movement even when being loaded and unloaded several times in a semi. For larger caliber semis I do use cannelure bullets and lightly crimp them as I think with a heavier bullet they could move with the force of the action (like an M1 Garand).

I am not a benchrest shooter, I enjoy reloading and shooting and have a fair amount of experience so there ya go. I am sure a lot of guys on this forum have more experience than me.


----------



## KineKilla (Jan 28, 2011)

Bax* said:


> Great deductions Kine.
> 
> I think you picked up some good points already. If you need any help, feel free to let me know and I'd be happy to help you in person.
> 
> Do you already have a press / tools for reloading?


I had the wife order me the Hornady reloading setup for christmas, so I do not currently have the stuff but will very soon.

This is the one she ordered.http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shooting/Reloading/Reloading-Presses-Press-Kits%7C/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104516280/Hornadyreg-Lock-n-Load174-Classic8482-Kit/740228.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Freloading-presses-press-kits%2F_%2FN-1100195%2FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_104516280%3Fo%3D3%26z%3D%25EE%25BF%25BF%25EF%25BF%25BF%25EF%25BF%25AF%25D4%25AD%253F%26WTz_l%3DSBC%253BMMcat104792580%253Bcat104761080&WTz_l=SBC%3BMMcat104792580%3Bcat104761080%3Bcat104516280. 
It comes with a sonic cleaner as well. I'm sure I'll want a progressive press in the near future but I was thinking that one round at a time would be the best way to get started.

I just might take you up on that offer but I'm sure I will be able to figure it all out fairly quickly. Thanks


----------



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

KineKilla said:


> I just might take you up on that offer but I'm sure I will be able to figure it all out fairly quickly. Thanks


I would take up Bax on the offer, he has been known to mentor some of the best reloaders between Evingston and Tooele. In person is a must in my humble opinion to fully understand what you are reading. The Hornady progressive is exponentially more complicated than a standard single stage, my neighbor has one and it must have taken 3-4 trips from his buddy who has one to get it all set up correctly, then do it all over again for the next cartridge. They are great, but certainly not necessary IMHO. I have loaded about 1,000 9mm and another 1,000 223 all on my RCBS single stage. I clearly have time to do it and thoroughly enjoy the relaxing process or I too would get a progressive. Unless you are shooting hundred plus rounds a week, like competitively, I just dont know that it is necessary unless time is really tight. They certainly are nice, just a lot more temporamental. Forget to seat the primer, powder didnt pour in, etc.


----------



## Bax* (Dec 14, 2008)

KineKilla said:


> I had the wife order me the Hornady reloading setup for christmas, so I do not currently have the stuff but will very soon.
> 
> This is the one she ordered.http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shoo...=SBC;MMcat104792580;cat104761080;cat104516280.
> It comes with a sonic cleaner as well. I'm sure I'll want a progressive press in the near future but I was thinking that one round at a time would be the best way to get started.
> ...


Right on! Im sure you will like your kit. The only thing that I dont see on there is a set of calipers. These are a must and I would highly encourage you to ask for them as a stocking stuffer.

The offer stands for help teaching you to reload. It looks like you have a good head on your shoulders with what you have figured out already. But having someone available to answer some questions is invaluable too.

Regarding the progressive press, Im glad you are starting with a single stage. Its good to become proficient at each step instead of having to learn to keep track of lots of things at once. But I agree, a progressive would be nice. Especially if you shoot lots out of a handgun.


----------



## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

*Edit: This was more of a reply to Huge's comment but Bax snuck in a reply before I posted.

While I love my single stages, I use a Lee turret now as its way faster than single stage yet a simple setup, and you only need to set up a specific caliber once! Its incredibly easy to switch out toolheads with other calibers that were previously set up. 

I'd love a big progressive press but I dont reload enough to justify the cost. Atm I'll sit down and do a few hundred at a time which takes about 45min to an hour depending on the # of stations that caliber is using (2, 3 or 4).


-DallanC


----------

