# New to archery



## TPrawitt91 (Sep 1, 2015)

So I was hoping to get into bow hunting next year. My little brother does it so I though what the heck. My dad today gave me an old bow of his, it's an alpine grand Teton. My dad didn't want me to spend money on a bow this year with my first child on the way. So I figured I would get this thing tuned up to use instead of buying new for a couple years. 

Anyone know anything about these? I know it's probably early 90's. 

I figure get it tuned up and a couple accessory changes and good to go. 

Any info is appreciated


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## Finnegan (Sep 7, 2007)

Your dad gave you good advice and the bow looks to be in good shape. I assume he can school you about the over-draw? Arrows are a lot more expensive today than they were back in the 90s, so you really want to get it right the first time. Have fun!


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## 2full (Apr 8, 2010)

I shot an overdraw bow for years. Loved it. 
Would still be shooting it if it had not finally wore out. 
Limb came apart at full draw........ya, it was ugly. :shock:
Killed A LOT of animals with it.

Update: 
I shot mine for literally 20 years, and I shot it a whole bunch. 
When it finally came apart it was bad. 
Black eye, welt on arm, etc. 
Was very glad I had my glasses on. Could have been worse.........
Always shot aluminum arrows.


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## bow_dude (Aug 20, 2009)

New string and cables and you are probably good to go. My suggestion would be to purchase the cheapest arrows you can get until you learn to shoot well. You will loose and break them. No sense in purchasing expensive arrows for the learning curve. Just make sure the arrow spine is made for the poundage you are shooting. Gold Tip Expeditions probably fit the bill. Aluminum arrows are inexpensive as well. The main thing is to spend your time shooting. Have fun. It would be good to find a mentor who can give you some pointers to get you started. Correct fit and form is for most.


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## TPrawitt91 (Sep 1, 2015)

Any suggestions on a place/person who can put on a new string and cables? Does sportsmans do it?


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## silentstalker (Feb 19, 2008)

I would suggest you pull the overdraw and shoot full length aluminum arrows to minimize stress on the older limbs. I would also recommend Dark Custom strings. They are a local company that will set you up right!
Welcome to bowhunting! You will love it!


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## TPrawitt91 (Sep 1, 2015)

Instead of the overdraw just a drop away rest? What are the best sights or other accessories?


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## silentstalker (Feb 19, 2008)

A drop away would be great. Sights and other accessaries are really dependent on price point. There are a lot of great ones out there.


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## TPrawitt91 (Sep 1, 2015)

How much does getting new strings and cables on a bow cost? I have looked around on google for local places but not seeing a lot of pricings listed.


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## silentstalker (Feb 19, 2008)

I would check with dark customs, or call Alpine directly. Alpine might be the cheapest route for you if they have them. If not, you could also get the bow string and cable lengths off the bow or from alpine and shop online for a new set too. 

Im not sure what it will cost for that particular bow.


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## swbuckmaster (Sep 14, 2007)

If the steel cables are good on that bow and not rusty a new string will probably be 30 to 40 bucks. If the cables are rusty it's probably not worth the time or money to fix it up imho. I also wouldn't shoot rusty cables. 

If the bows cables are good I'd rip the overdraw off and shoot full length aluminum arrows. Nothing worse then having your broadheads hanging over your wrist like they will with the overdraw. It's up to you if you want to shoot carbon arrows with it. I'd wouldn't and the reason is carbon arrows are so light they are hard on the steel cables and limbs. If that sucker blows up its going to leave a mark.

Pick up a drop away of your choice and arrows. Other then that and I wouldn't spend another dime on that bow. Until your sure you want to get into bowhunting. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Karl (Aug 14, 2016)

You are unfortunately taking a huge gamble shooting an old bow.

The limbs get weaker as time passes.

Eventually they will break.

If one breaks during your full draw it will come back and hit you in the face.

You could lose an eye. At the very least you will have a big scar on your face like Al Capone.

This bow is over 20 years old. Most bows only last 5 to 10 years.

I suggest you do not risk the breakage.

By the time some pro rebuilds the limbs, strings, and cables for you it will have cost the same as a new compound bow.

Make sure you wear safety glasses anytime you shoot a bow -- same rule as guns.

You should think about this first.


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## Karl (Aug 14, 2016)

As far as getting into archery for the first time, there is the fast way and the slow way.

The fast way is that you get a cheap compound bow and cheap arrows and get some instruction on how to stand, how to hold it, how to draw it, how to release, what kind of finger protection to use, and how to aim it with a sight.

The slow way is to get a take-down recurve bow (not a compound) and learn very slowly the hard way how to do everything right before you graduate to a compound bow.

It will be easier to tell with a recurve bow what you are doing wrong.

A compound bow is easier to shoot but it will mask your mistakes.

On a take-down recurve bow you can replace the limbs every 5 years as needed for very little cost. New limbs on a take-down cost a lot less than on a compound.

You should think about this and make your choice.

You'll need a good instructor who has taken the archery instructor course otherwise you will just learn the bad habits of the teacher who is trying to teach you.


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## Karl (Aug 14, 2016)

TPrawitt91 said:


> Any suggestions on a place/person who can put on a new string and cables? Does sportsmans do it?


There are several archery shops around town, you just need to google them.


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## Karl (Aug 14, 2016)

TPrawitt91 said:


> Instead of the overdraw just a drop away rest? What are the best sights or other accessories?


When you buy a compound bow it should be manufactured to your specific natural draw length.

An archery shop can measure that for you.

They have arrow shafts with inches marked off on them.

My own specific draw length is 29 1/2 inches. I have long arms like a gorilla.

The average is 28 inches. Most bows are manufactured to this length and if you are either a gorilla or a dwarf then you need to special order a compound bow that "fits" you.

Compound bows can be adjusted to plus or minus 1/2 inches.

If you over-draw a compound bow you will be messing up everything in your shooting. Same as if you under-draw it.

So on your to-do list is take the bow to the archery shop, and find out what your own natural draw length is, and then confirm that the compound bow can be set to that length.


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## Karl (Aug 14, 2016)

TPrawitt91 said:


> How much does getting new strings and cables on a bow cost? I have looked around on google for local places but not seeing a lot of pricings listed.


How much does surgery on your eyes and face cost?

Probably around $50,000 to $100,000 dollars.

Just saying.

If you go to an archery shop they can give you an estimate of costs to rebuild the old bow. They can even look for cracks in the metal and see if it is even worth it.


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## silentstalker (Feb 19, 2008)

Its not as doom and gloom as it may seem. Take your bow in and have it checked by a reputable dealer. Lots of guys are hunting with older bows. But, getting it checked out is a great idea. I would have it checked at a pro shop.


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## TPrawitt91 (Sep 1, 2015)

It will be checked out when a new string is put on. It's in good shape. This bow hasn't been used a whole lot. I can think of maybe 2 times my dad ever used it. It probably hasn't even been shot in 15 years. Any one have a favorite archery shop?


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## swbuckmaster (Sep 14, 2007)

Jakes is the only shop I know that can repair steel cables on bows if they need it. 

Bows DONT wear out every five years like Karl said! My hunting bow is 12 years old and I haven't missed a buck in that time with it. Ive Taken 10 bucks 4 points or better and 1 three point. Didn't draw a tag last year. This bow will continue to kill stuff for several more years. Ive also shot a hell of a lot of 3d shoots and leagues with it. It still pulls 69 lbs and still pounds the middle. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## TPrawitt91 (Sep 1, 2015)

Yeah I'm thinking this bow will be pretty easy to get shooting. It really doesn't look like it was really used much. I'm sure it's never had a string change or really been used much. Just been in storage the better part of 20 years. He didn't hunt at all after he turned 30.


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## bow_dude (Aug 20, 2009)

A couple of things you need to be aware of that has not come up. If this bow has steel cables, likely it can't shoot carbon arrows... they will be too light. The older bows had to shoot an arrow with a minimum arrow weight of 6 grains per draw pound and many at 7 grains per pound. Mathews was one of the first to build a bow that would warranty 5 grains per draw weight pound. Within a couple of years, all the manufacturers built bows that would warranty 5 grains of arrow weight per draw weight pound. That being the case, if your bow is a 70 lb bow, you better play it safe and shoot arrows that weight at a minimum of 420 grains. That is why the old bows shot the overdraw, trying to get the aluminum arrow weight down to increase arrow speed, which aided in a flatter trajectory. You will also want to make sure you get a bow string made of the correct materials. When fast flight first came into the market, only the new bows could use it. A lot of those older bows had to use strings made of Dacron. If you put fast flight strings on a bow made for Dacron, they claimed you could blow up the limbs. Better check out the manufacturers recommended string material. 

I don't prescribe to the same theory as Karl in that bow limbs are only good for a few years. I have bows that are 20 plus years old that still shoot and work great. If there is a problem with a limb, it will usually manifest itself with splintering and other signs. Look it over good and as has been recommended, have a good pro shop look it over. Jakes in Orem has been around a long time, they should know their bows. I quite like Wilde Arrow in Centerville. They are quality mechanics.


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## kdog (May 4, 2015)

bowdude is giving you sound advice as many here with the exception of Karl. may folks shoot limbs for 20-30 years with no problems. the only other accesory i would add is a peep site to the string, those are cheep and a new string if the cables are good. and yes stick with aluminum arrows and pull the overdraw. if money is an issue a wiskerbiskit will work fine also.

are you going to shoot it with your finders or with a release?


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## Karl (Aug 14, 2016)

kdog said:


> bowdude is giving you sound advice as many here with the exception of Karl. may folks shoot limbs for 20-30 years with no problems. the only other accesory i would add is a peep site to the string, those are cheep and a new string if the cables are good. and yes stick with aluminum arrows and pull the overdraw. if money is an issue a wiskerbiskit will work fine also.
> 
> are you going to shoot it with your finders or with a release?


Nice ad hom.

So what are you? A pro archery instructor?

I rather doubt it.


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## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

Karl said:


> Nice ad hom.
> 
> So what are you? A pro archery instructor?
> 
> I rather doubt it.


So are you a pro archery instructor then Karl?

I rather doubt it.

-DallanC


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## Karl (Aug 14, 2016)

DallanC said:


> So are you a pro archery instructor then Karl?
> 
> I rather doubt it.
> 
> -DallanC


Are you?


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## bowgy (Oct 10, 2007)

o-||


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## kdog (May 4, 2015)

Karl said:


> Nice ad hom.
> 
> So what are you? A pro archery instructor?
> 
> I rather doubt it.


Of course not and neither are you so the point is moot. Karl I will defend you when it is needed (as you know I have done) but if I feel someone is going to be mislead I will point it out. Same as anyone else. The Op does not need to fear his bow limbs, but does need to have the cables and string checked.


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## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

Karl said:


> Are you?


No, but I personally have had a limb shatter on a relatively new bow. My experience > yours on this topic apparently. But go on, tell me how I'm wrong.

-DallanC


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## colorcountrygunner (Oct 6, 2009)

My bow is turning 4 next year. That means one year after that I will have to buy a new bow or risk having it blow up in my face and cost me a $50,000 to $100,000 facial reconstruction surgery. Dammit! I was really starting to get comfy with this bow!


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## TPrawitt91 (Sep 1, 2015)

Karl said:


> Are you?


You're acting childish and not really adding much here. I also blew off your 5-10 year assessment as soon as I read it. Don't need to be an expert to know that simply isn't true and like Dallan said, defects happen and even new bow limbs break. But

Thanks for everyone's input. I had a pretty good idea what i needed to do but love the advice of experienced archers/hunters. Thanks guys


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## Karl (Aug 14, 2016)

DallanC said:


> No, but I personally have had a limb shatter on a relatively new bow. My experience > yours on this topic apparently. But go on, tell me how I'm wrong.
> 
> -DallanC


You love to bait and switch then apparently. That's rhetorical.

But in essence you and I agree -- limbs on bows can break.

And then they come back and hit you in the face.

I am surprised you are not willing to agree that an older bow over 20 years old is more likely to break and hit you in the face.

Or do you just like to argue ??


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## TPrawitt91 (Sep 1, 2015)

Karl said:


> You love to bait and switch then apparently. That's rhetorical.
> 
> But in essence you and I agree -- limbs on bows can break.
> 
> ...


Dude, you like to argue. Be constructive, or don't comment on my post. Your opinion is just that, an opinion. We all heard your opinion and disagree, that is our opinion. In reality, no better or worse than yours. Quit trolling.


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## Karl (Aug 14, 2016)

TPrawitt91 said:


> You're acting childish and not really adding much here. I also blew off your 5-10 year assessment as soon as I read it. Don't need to be an expert to know that simply isn't true and like Dallan said, defects happen and even new bow limbs break. But
> 
> Thanks for everyone's input. I had a pretty good idea what i needed to do but love the advice of experienced archers/hunters. Thanks guys


Kid, all these boyz are naturally going to blow sunshine at you.

With a 20 year old bow you really need to be careful.

When a limb explodes in your face just remember what I told you.


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