# Choke tubes for waterfowl



## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

I've been thinking about getting an aftermarket (i guess you'd call it that) choke tube for my Browning BPS 12 gauge, for use on waterfowl. Are there any suggestions?


----------



## Nor-tah (Dec 16, 2007)

I bought the Carlson's steel shot tube a few weeks ago. I'll let you know how I like it tomorrow. Othere options are Briley, Comp-n-choke, Patternmaster. It depends on how much you want to spend. Mine was 29.99 :mrgreen:


----------



## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

What about these?
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... ISO-8859-1


----------



## stick_man (Sep 10, 2007)

Chaser, does your BPS have the standard Invector choke or the Invector Plus choke system? I have an older BPS with the standard Invector and am also interested in an aftermarket choke. Let us know what you decide on, why, and how it does for you. It may be a little while before I can get my choke(s).


----------



## threshershark (Sep 7, 2007)

I would pattern the stock choke and see how it works. The main reason to go with aftermarket is when you can't get good results with what you have already.

My standard choke works really well with heavi-shot loads, but steel was another story. I picked up a Patternmaster choke and have been very happy with it.


----------



## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

My gun is less than 2 years old, so Invector Plus. Thresh, I guess that would be a good idea. I will try it out. It would be nice to get into some birds so I can see if its the patterning that's off, or just me. But I have taken almost 15 shots now, and not a one of them has been able to connect. I am generally a pretty good shot on clays, but I haven't been able to drop a duck yet.


----------



## deadicatedweim (Dec 18, 2007)

I bought the browning duck commander choke tubes that look the same as the tube you posted from cabelas for my citori. I never liked the way they patterned with my typical loads so I sold them and went with a extended and ported light mod from briley and have liked that. A big reason for going with the light mod was the 2 duck commander choke tubes i bought were improved mod and full and they didnt shoot black cloud very well. I later read that black cloud reccomends a choke tube not tighter than mod.

Funny thing is the browning dc tubes were made by briley so who knows


----------



## Huntoholic (Sep 17, 2008)

Another reason to go to an after market tube is you can get them with a muzzle break. If you are shooting heavy loads a muzzle break can help a little. But it is hell on your partners.


----------



## threshershark (Sep 7, 2007)

ChaserOfAllBirds said:


> I am generally a pretty good shot on clays, but I haven't been able to drop a duck yet.


Chaser: Keep in mind that steel is lighter than lead. You could be shooting out in front of the birds with steel compared to what you are used to on the clays range. You may want to shoot some skeet with your duck loads and do some fine tuning.

Incidentally, many people I know who have gone to wad-stopper chokes like the Patternmaster initially feel like it isn't working because they start getting "clean misses." This is because there is usually a very dense pattern which either kills the bird dead as disco or results in a complete wiff. What you are experiencing might be due to having a nice, dense pattern with very few fliers. If that is the case all you need to do is work on centering the bird.


----------



## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

I guess I will give that a shot too. I have heard that ducks fly a lot faster than you think they are too, and that most people generally shoot behind them because they think they are flying slower than they actually are. With that in the back of my mind, I have been trying to lead them a bit more than I would pheasants or clays, but I am still missing. I think the other thing I need to try is shooting before they get right over me. Let them fly into the pattern. 

I have been shooting Xpert #2s as well, and I have heard that Xpert sucks bad. Maybe a switch to another brand would help? The funny thing is, I shot a pheasant dead last year with the first round out of that box of Xpert. Of course, it was a straight-out, trap type shot, rather than over my head crossing like skeet.


----------



## stick_man (Sep 10, 2007)

I have heard mixed reviews about the Xperts. Either you really like them or you absolutely hate them. I have heard the shot is usually all deformed before it is even fired, but have never cut one open to verify that. Personally, I have had pretty good luck with them. When my shooting is on, I have not had any problems with them. When my shooting is off, obviously it is the ammo's fault, no matter which brand.

Remember, a mod choke shooting steel patterns similar to a full choke shooting lead. I am not good enough of a shot to be shooting a full choke at ducks. I need my patterns to open up a little faster, so I have usually gone for the I/C or skeet chokes but am trying to get to the point where I do OK with the mod as well.


----------



## Ryfly (Sep 13, 2007)

#1 If you are trying to lead them you're probably shooting out in front of them. Most steel loads have a higher initial velocity than lead so you don't need to lead as much as you think at close ranges. Start by putting the bead on the birds head and then work out from there. Remember that if the bird is coming straight overhead you need to pull through and block it out with the barrel. The best way to learn to shoot is to keep both eyes on the bird and let your body put the gun where it needs to go. It just takes practice. 

#2 Pattern your gun. I found that the factory Mod. choke works just fine for the shells I shoot.

#3 Xperts stink. The pellets are deformed and not uniform in size.

I'm no expert but I remember being in your shoes and these are the things that worked for me. Good luck.


----------



## deadicated1 (Mar 17, 2008)

i would say dont bother switching shells. i like experts, and have never had any problems with them. also, they are cheap!! just get to know your leads, distances, follow throughs, etc.


----------



## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

Most of my shots have been just inside what I would consider ethical range. I haven't shot at any birds that are cupped up and dropping into my spread, but I have shot at birds that are coming straight over me, both coming and going, with just a few of them being a few degrees off of vertical. I have tried to be selective in my shots, making sure their eyes and feet are visible, and that I can ID the duck accurately before pulling the trigger. I feel this should be in effective range, so maybe I am out in front of them. As for steel having a higher initial velocity- the physics makes sense here, but wouldn't it also make sense that since steel isn't as dense as lead, that it loses energy faster, thus slowing it down at a faster rate than lead would? If so, considering many of the birds I have shot at have been further out, pushing the 40 yard limit, could it be possible that my shot doesn't have enough energy to penetrate, let alone knock the bird down? 

On a few of those shots, I felt as if I was having one of those dreams where someone is attacking you, and all you can do is punch them, but for some reason, you just aren't strong enough to deliver a stunning blow, so you get beat down.


----------



## Duurty1 (Sep 10, 2007)

PATTERN YOUR GUN with the factory chokes. I have tried about half a dozen aftermarket chokes and my factory ic and mod out patterned them. also try changing shells before you go out and spend money on a choke. The only thing that i have been able to pattern out of my nova is kents. just my thoughts and good luck


----------



## beretta2 (Jan 5, 2008)

Those pesky ducks need more of a lead than you would think! I shoot an xtrema2 and the factory chokes are better than most, but I have started using one of the Kicks 'High Flyer' chokes in their extra full designation. In the 2 trips since I have bought it I have noticed that the birds have all hit the water head down if not stone dead. I shoot the 3" #2 Xperts or the 3" #2 Estate's.

Here is a link to a good article as well as an excerpt:

Forward allowance on a crossing duck that is moving at 45 mph (and that's not hard to duplicate in the real world) will require a lead of 10.1 feet at 50 yards with the new hot shot steel BBs. Again, by comparison, shooting a slower 1450 f.p.s. load that lead is still at 10.8 feet. A very small .7 savings in lead, but in my opinion, any gain is always a positive element when we are dealing with common iron shot pellets.

http://www.wildfowlmag.com/tips_strategies/WF_nothingbutfast_200808/index.html


----------



## waterproof (Oct 10, 2007)

Chaser, here are a few of my thoughts:

Steel loses velocity and power rapidly after 40 yards. It really falls off and has nothing behind it, unlike the lead loads I used to reload years ago. Work harder to get your shots closer if you can. 

Take some time and go out with several large pieces of paper and some wood to pattern what is actually happening with your shot at under 40 yards. Use the Xperts (not my personal fav) and change out your chokes to better see what's going on. I would also have you try one shot at 45+ yards just so you can see how much it drops, etc. You would also be extremely amazed at what happens to steel in a good wind :evil: 

My Nova shoots best with factory IC and 3" estates #2. The first time I took it out I was shooting the Kent Fasteel and was blowing the most amazing shots (the memory of that trip still haunts me) it's the most frustrated I have ever been in my 30+ years of duck hunting! When I was finally able to pattern it I found something like is described in the the article beretta2 quoted "With the new ultra velocity loads we have now achieved a sort of maximum velocity, but more work is needed on harnessing that increased speed and energy in terms of pattern control. Super velocity loads will quite often result in blown core or inner 20-inch ring patterns. Some of these holes are large enough so as to allow a mallard to fly through them untouched." You just have to try a few combos to see what shoots best out of YOUR gun. 

I also shoot a PM at times. It works really well at controlling the shot string but it will give you a smaller more dense pattern which will either knock em down cold or wave them goodbye. Beretta2 's High Flyer choke gives him the same thing. These chokes are better for pass shooting like you are probably doing but I shoot over deke's and the IC stays in most of the time. 

My last thing is remember to "swing through". Get the bead on his beak and follow him, increase your lead and shoot while following thru. Soon it will be much easier for you (most days anyway)--Good Luck.


----------

