# Surface Drive vs. Longtail Motors



## MWScott72

I'm starting to seriously consider getting into a boat this fall and would love some feedback on motors. What do you use - longtail, surface drive, pros and cons? I haven't decided which to use yet (and motor/models are a long ways off), so just looking at general advantages and disadvantages. I will say that I would like to get out on the GSL for some shallow mudflats shooting as it seems there are really good bird numbers and variety out there. Been a foot soldier for years and looking for new and expanded opportunities.

What boat length do you use, motor type, and horsepower, and how has it treated you?


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## MooseMeat

Get as big as you can afford. I’d do 18’ minimum. And put a 45 surface drive on it (or bigger). I’ve had long tails and they are nothing compared to the SDs, especially when it comes to running long distance or deep water where waves and heavy loads can be a factor. If you go too small on your surface drive and over load the boat, you basically have a long tail, going 6 miles and hour and you’ll be pissed. GET THE BIGGER MOTOR. I’d get a mudbuddy, However their customer service sucks. If you need work or mods done to The motor, take it to glade back water performance in Orem. He knows his chit and the work will get done right the first time. Depending on the money you want to spend on the hull, the sky is the limit. You don’t need the top of line prodigy or excel to kill birds. You do want something that somewhat got some beef to it for ice and other stuff you’ll hit. These boats take a beating. Just remember, you can’t have too much boat. Especially for big water. They are nice to have at the WMAs too 

As far as the GSL goes, there isn’t much variety out where you’ll be able to get a mud boat. Teal, spoons and the occasional GE is about it. Now with an airboat on the other hand, you can get into the places where the mallards, pins, gads, widgeon and other puddle ducks hang out.


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## Fowlmouth

The skies the limit! Whatever you want to spend. If you are looking at buying a new set up, a riveted 1648 Jon with a 23 HP longtail and galvanized trailer start around $8,000. I wouldn't do anything smaller than that set up. You can easily spend upwards of $20,000+ for a welded boat, Surface Drive and trailer if you would like.

Shallow water hunting, shorter runs and lighter loads. Longtail
Deep water, longer runs, heavier loads, faster speeds. Surface Drive 

I run a 1648 riveted Jon with a 27 HP longtail. Myself, dog and gear I run 18 mph. Add 2 guys, I run 14-15 mph. A boat like goosefreaks, loaded to the nuts with gear and 3 guys runs 25 mph. (1854 Excel with 45 HP SD) 

It boils down to what you want/need the boat to do.

A couple of photos of mine and goosefreaks rigs...


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## goosefreak

What’s your budget??
Like others have said is pretty much it. Although for $8k you should be able to get a 35hp longtail on a riveted boat.

I run circles around all the longtail guys and quite a few surface drives but, the riveted boat longtail guys can get out of shallower better then I can. 

I can do 28 mph through an inch of ice ( oh it sounds like hell) riveted guys can’t do that but, how often does that happen. ( not often) 

I can haul big loads and go moocho fast.. 

Riveted boats are easier to man handle

My boat ( welded) I can jump and walk around in it without rocking like hell..


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## taxidermist

I had a Landau (? spelling) 16' Mod-V running a Mud buddy 28hp surface drive. It was the older surface drive and had a 48" shaft. I liked the longer shaft, it gave me the ability to drive the prop in the mud to give the boat some lift. I was into that w/ trailer about 7K. 


It was great for 2 hunters, gear/dog. 3 guys was a little more than I liked, and cut the speed down a bit.


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## gander311

Budget is a huge factor. How much are you willing to spend?

I’ve owned a few configurations over the last 20 years. First boat was a 14x36 riveted boat with a 16HP longtail. Great starter boat for two guys, dog, and decent spread. Killed a crap ton of birds out of that boat, but it wasn’t getting me anywhere fast.

Then I upgraded to a 16x48 smooth bottom Jon with a 35HP short tail. Then I had an 18x44 welded boat made for me that I put that motor on. I could hit 30 MPH running super shallow water and just me in the boat. Very nice boat and I used it for a few years. But then it seemed
like I was dragging 3-4 guys out all time because I had the room, and I could. So eventually sold it and downsized to my current rig. I’m back down to a 16x48 riveted boat with pods on the back, with a built 35HP short tail. (Runs more like 40hp+) Runs faster than I need it to, and will also push a big load when I need it. I wouldn’t break a ton of ice with the riveted hull, but that’s a compromise I made to go with the lighter and cheaper setup, because I don’t love breaking ice anyways. 

I’m contemplating going back to a longtail just for the simplicity and maintenance as my shortail is older and I keep having to fix things like belt, bearings, trim, etc. I don’t need speed anymore, so a 35HP longtail would do everything I need these days.

So I’d guess you could say I’ve kind of gone in big loop. Small setup to big, and now working my way smaller again! In fact, I’ve been drooling over the idea of a 12x40 with pods, and 13HP Copperhead shortail. Super small and lightweight boat you could get just about anywhere with 1-2 dozen decoys. It could even be portaged small distances or launched without a ramp.

Having said all of the above. Like some of the other guys have said, I don’t think you can go wrong with a 16x48 and the biggest motor you can afford. 

Man, I love duck boats...


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## goosefreak

In my opinion, and I have run 3 different sizes of boats and motors. I currently run an 1851 excel with a 45hp but, I think the best “all around” mud boat set up is a 16x48 riveted alumacraft jon boat (open floor plan) with a 35hp long tail. 
It would be the best long tail for long hauls, best motor for heavy loads, the boat would be light weight to allow you to get into skinny-er water and you can drag it easier.
A 16x48 riveted boat with a 35hp longtail would weigh around 500lbs (boat and motor only) mine weighs 1,100 lbs (boat and motor) 

Alumacrafts are .100 aluminum which is good. Their transoms are well built. 

BUT, then again. My boat is the cats meow!! Like, I squeeze that throttle and it goes forward in a real hurry..


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## Fowlmouth

gander brings up a great point in regards to the maintenance of surface drives compared to longtails. Longtails you basically change the oil once a year and squeeze a few pumps of grease in the shaft. The SD's definitely require more maintenance and they are a hell of a lot more expensive to keep running at peak performance.


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## MWScott72

Thanks for the information guys. As far as budget goes, I think my wife might kill me if I go anywhere north of 10K "to kill ducks". I have an 11-yr old son that I'd like to have the experience of a boat to kill ducks out of. It just might help me get a few other folks out too. I really don't mind biking out on the dikes then hoofing it on the flats, but as I get older, letting a boat get me out to places sounds like a pretty good deal too.

I like the "best, all around boat" idea (16x48 Jon with 35 HP longtail.). Wish I had more $$ to specialize, but these days, I typically have to go with equipment that can do multiple things to get the most bang out of my bucks. I love variety, so something that can get me into lots of different areas / birds sounds like the ticket. What are the major differences between welded vs riveted? Sounds like riveted are lighter but not as durable. Which handles better? I would think welded, but sounded like the riveted did?

How about overall driveability? Never driven either SD or LT. Do you come out after the season with Popeye arms from fighting the torque or are they easier to drive than the look? So many questions...


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## Fowlmouth

Welded are heavier, usually thicker gauge aluminum. No flex anywhere in the boat, no rivets to worry about leaking. A welded boat will take more abuse than a riveted boat. If you don't plan on jumping logs, beaver dams or breaking thick ice then a riveted boat is fine. I bought my Alumacraft riveted Jon in 2008, and use it often. Never has leaked.

As far as what boat handles better, I guess that depends on where you are using it. Big water, big waves, ice, and debris. I'll take a welded boat. Welded boats in general handle better and are a "smoother ride" if you will.

SD's drive and handle like an outboard. Much easier to handle than a longtail.


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## JerryH

I can't believe guys invest 10k and more in a jonboat & motor combo. Wait to judge me! But stand back and take a good look at whats there for 10k. Not much. Open floor plan, no steering column, no lights, maybe a bench seat, underrated trailer and then there's the motor. You can buy a Harley engine cheaper than what they want for a duck boat powerplant. The cost of goods/materials isn't there. I would like to know the profit margins that these manufacturers make? 

I'm not saying don't buy one. But go into it with both eyes open. Look at what you get in return for your hard earned money. There's two jon boat rigs sitting in every subdivision. Key word sitting. Jon boats on KSL every week. Oh and the parking lots are full from youth day til freeze up or when they pull the boards. 

Just something to think about..


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## Fowlmouth

JerryH said:


> I can't believe guys invest 10k and more in a jonboat & motor combo. Wait to judge me! But stand back and take a good look at whats there for 10k. Not much. Open floor plan, no steering column, no lights, maybe a bench seat, underrated trailer and then there's the motor. You can buy a Harley engine cheaper than what they want for a duck boat powerplant. The cost of goods/materials isn't there. I would like to know the profit margins that these manufacturers make?
> 
> I'm not saying don't buy one. But go into it with both eyes open. Look at what you get in return for your hard earned money. There's two jon boat rigs sitting in every subdivision. Key word sitting. Jon boats on KSL every week. Oh and the parking lots are full from youth day til freeze up or when they pull the boards.
> 
> Just something to think about..


You're not wrong. Take a well equipped fishing boat in the $10k-15K price range and compare it with a $10k-15k duck boat. You get a lot more for your money with the fishing boat.It's kind of like comparing a SxS vs having a Jeep. $30k for some of these SxS's with no heater, no A/C, no windshield, no wipers, hard seats, small engines and the list goes on. It boils down to what a person wants and what they will spend to get it.


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## JerryH

Valid point. The hard pill to swallow is its worth 50% less when it hits KSL


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## JerryH

https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/60222547

700?? For someone's trashed bottom end.

Case in point. This stuff is so overpriced its ridiculous. These manufacturers are laughing all the way to the bank.


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## Fowlmouth

Look what they want for duck boats..Crazy!:?
https://classifieds.ksl.com/search/keyword/duck boat


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## MWScott72

My preference would be to buy off KSL (or similar) and let them take the depreciation instead of me. My plan will be to find something that looks good and take one of you out for lunch in exchange for your take on the rig! Sound good? 😉


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## Fowlmouth

MWScott72 said:


> My preference would be to buy off KSL (or similar) and let them take the depreciation instead of me. My plan will be to find something that looks good and take one of you out for lunch in exchange for your take on the rig! Sound good? &#128521;


If you do the facebook thing, keep an eye out on the Utah Waterfowl Association page. If I see, or hear of a good one I'll let you know.


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## MWScott72

Fowlmouth said:


> MWScott72 said:
> 
> 
> 
> My preference would be to buy off KSL (or similar) and let them take the depreciation instead of me. My plan will be to find something that looks good and take one of you out for lunch in exchange for your take on the rig! Sound good? &#128521;
> 
> 
> 
> If you do the facebook thing, keep an eye out on the Utah Waterfowl Association page. If I see, or hear of a good one I'll let you know.
Click to expand...

Will do. Is that an open page, or do you have to be approved?


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## gander311

Yes, watch KSL. Come about August you'll really start seeing them pop up on there. For $10k you should absolutely be able to find something that you'll be happy with for years to come. 

It's crazy how expensive they've gotten in the last 10 years. They've about doubled in price. With some shopping around, elbow grease, finding good deals, and piecing things together, I was in to my custom welded 18x44 with a 35HP shortail, trailer, gator slick bottom, hydroturf, and a custom all aluminum blind that I built for just under $10k. It would literally cost me double to do that now, which is just insane. I'd never be able to justify it.


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## Fowlmouth

MWScott72 said:


> Will do. Is that an open page, or do you have to be approved?


Need approval....

facebook market place is another one to watch. This will give you an idea of what boats are going for in other states too. Utah is higher priced than just about anywhere in the country when it comes to used duck boats.


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## MooseMeat

MWScott72 said:


> Will do. Is that an open page, or do you have to be approved?


They've approved me like 14 times....

And now that they have jumped in bed with $FW, it's obvious they have no standards on the people they will let in to that association &#55357;&#56841;


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## goosefreak

If $10k is your limit, I wouldn’t even wast my time buying another mans piece of junk off of KSL. I would buy an 16x48 alumacraft with a trailer and a 35hp longtail, all new. That would put you around $8k and you would have money left over to wire some lights on it. Then you have a complete new rig. You will know everything that’s seen done to it. A fresh slate to work with and it will hold its re sell value better that a hand me down boat.


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## Fowlmouth

I was curious, so I called the dealer and got pricing for a new Alumacraft 1648 flat and Modified V Jon boat, and galvanized trailer.

1648 Flat $3200
1648 Mod V $3400
Galvanized Trailer $1600
35 HP Mud Buddy Longtail $4500.... 25HP $4000.... 23HP $3500

$8300-$9500 + Tax...……..

..


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## goosefreak

You can get a regular trailer for half the price. You don’t need a galvanize trailer for a boat like that if you wanna save a little money but, they are nice.


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## goosefreak

Also, a 16x48 riveted boat is a safe size boat to take out on Strawberry. Knowing your wind to wave ration limit of course.

You could gear a boat out like that EASY for Kokanee fishing. Electric bow mount trolling motor and a clamp on down rigger(or 2) and away you go!!


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## MWScott72

goosefreak said:


> Also, a 16x48 riveted boat is a safe size boat to take out on Strawberry. Knowing your wind to wave ration limit of course.
> 
> You could gear a boat out like that EASY for Kokanee fishing. Electric bow mount trolling motor and a clamp on down rigger(or 2) and away you go!!


Yeah, I would definitely want to double it as a fishing boat! Question - what is the difference between the flat and Mod V? Mod V just cuts thru chop better... maybe a bit deeper draft?


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## MWScott72

goosefreak said:


> Also, a 16x48 riveted boat is a safe size boat to take out on Strawberry. Knowing your wind to wave ration limit of course.
> 
> You could gear a boat out like that EASY for Kokanee fishing. Electric bow mount trolling motor and a clamp on down rigger(or 2) and away you go!!


Yeah, I would definitely want to double it as a fishing boat! Question - what is the difference between the flat and Mod V? Mod V just cuts they chop better... maybe a bit deeper draft?


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## goosefreak

A flat curves down off the bow and is true flat the whole length of the boat. Ideal for shallow water runs, Ideal for duck hunting, marsh runs.

A true Mod V is V shaped at the bow and transitions to a flatter V at the stern. A better deep water boat, Not ideal in shallow water specifically where the bottom of your boat is running through mud. Cuts rougher water better but, I would say that is negligible in comparison to a flat haul.

If you wanna cut choppy water then you need a true V haul. Not ideal for shallow water at all. 

then there is a V-front which is a flat bottom from front to back but, the front its self is V shaped instead of a square nose. Like Fowlmouth's boat is a square nose and mine in a V front. From the spot the water touches my boat in the front its flat all the whole way to the motor.


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## johnnycake

Another thought: go with a kaboat style inflatable in the 15-18' range. I have seen these used and abused for a lot of things up in Alaska and finally broke down and bought one myself. Duck marshes, saltwater, glacial streams and rivers with 2-4" of silty water and razor sharp shale and quartzite everywhere, etc. 

I think it would be an awesome setup for Utah. My 15' can take up to 135lbs on the transom and Tohatsu has an awesome 30/20 jet you can pair it with and you're going to get some places. I know a guy that has this exact setup and he routinely runs in sub 2" water with 2 guys and gear for a well at hunting camp at +20mph. You'd be all in well under budget giving you room for a new gun, decoys and maybe a good dog to boot. 

And the 15 footer I bought weighs 107lbs. Very portable for a couple of guys.


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## JerryH

Oh he!! Ya!


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## RemingtonCountry

I currently run a 16x48 Mod-V War Eagle with a 31 hp longtail.

Yes, I get ran around by my buddies with souped up boats and my best friends 18 ft Mod-V War Eagle with a 35 hp SD. 

But, it gets me and one or two others where I need to go and there is a lot less upkeep to mine. Plus, I throw a 65 lb thrust trolling motor on the front and it is a KILLER bass boat/bowfishing boat. It does well at Strawberry trolling for trout.


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## Fowlmouth

I got thinking about this day. It was a late January hunt and the water was already low. (The DWR typically lowers the flow once the ice comes). As the day went on I could tell the water was dropping lower, but I kept on hunting. I was the only boat out there all day long. The DWR had opened the gates while I was out there, and was fully draining the unit for carp removal. It was some skinny water getting back and I was thankful for the longtail.


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## MWScott72

RemingtonCountry said:


> I currently run a 16x48 Mod-V War Eagle with a 31 hp longtail.
> 
> Yes, I get ran around by my buddies with souped up boats and my best friends 18 ft Mod-V War Eagle with a 35 hp SD.
> 
> But, it gets me and one or two others where I need to go and there is a lot less upkeep to mine. Plus, I throw a 65 lb thrust trolling motor on the front and it is a KILLER bass boat/bowfishing boat. It does well at Strawberry trolling for trout.


Do you put a small outboard on it when using it out of season? I love the ability to get shallow and less upkeep with the longtail, but I hate to buy another motor too, and an SD seems to be a better "all around" option.

Being very mechanically challenged, what are the issues with the SDs that cause them so much more maintenance?


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## RemingtonCountry

MWScott72 said:


> Do you put a small outboard on it when using it out of season? I love the ability to get shallow and less upkeep with the longtail, but I hate to buy another motor too, and an SD seems to be a better "all around" option.
> 
> Being very mechanically challenged, what are the issues with the SDs that cause them so much more maintenance?


I don't change motors, the 31 hp pushes that boat very well with no waterfowl gear in it. I've thought about putting a 20 hp outboard on the back, but I don't have a need to so far. I don't run planer boards when trolling and have never had a single incident with line snapping on the prop.

Like Gander said: belts, bearings, trim, etc. While I have had an issue or two over the past 8 years, all of those that I know with SD's have had more issues in that time period.


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## Fowlmouth

Off with the longtail and on with the outboard......Fish Lake here I come!:smile

In 12 years of owning my longtail, I have only replaced throttle cables and the lower seals in the shaft by the prop. 

Not sure why the photo is rotated, never done that before.


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## goosefreak

I haven’t had a single issue with my 45hp SD in the 4-5 years Iv owned it but, I service mine every summer.

The maintenance on my motor are the typical spark plugs, oil, fuel filter. Then I need to keep all my pivot points well greased, keep the drive shaft greased, make sure the belt tension is correct, make sure the value lash is set correctly. Make sure the idol speed is right, clean air filter. Etc but, I take my fiat to BPS every summer and have them tune it up. 

If you keep up on your motor every year, it will always run!


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## paddler

goosefreak said:


> I haven't had a single issue with my 45hp SD in the 4-5 years Iv owned it but, I service mine every summer.
> 
> The maintenance on my motor are the typical spark plugs, oil, fuel filter. Then I need to keep all my pivot points well greased, keep the drive shaft greased, make sure the belt tension is correct, make sure the value lash is set correctly. Make sure the idol speed is right, clean air filter. Etc but, *I take my fiat to BPS every summer and have them tune it up. *
> 
> If you keep up on your motor every year, it will always run!


What's that? You have a Fiat? Thought you were a Chevy guy?


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## goosefreak

paddler said:


> goosefreak said:
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't had a single issue with my 45hp SD in the 4-5 years Iv owned it but, I service mine every summer.
> 
> The maintenance on my motor are the typical spark plugs, oil, fuel filter. Then I need to keep all my pivot points well greased, keep the drive shaft greased, make sure the belt tension is correct, make sure the value lash is set correctly. Make sure the idol speed is right, clean air filter. Etc but, *I take my fiat to BPS every summer and have them tune it up. *
> 
> If you keep up on your motor every year, it will always run!
> 
> 
> 
> What's that? You have a Fiat? Thought you were a Chevy guy?
Click to expand...

Good catch!! Hell, I never spell check and half the time my audio text sucks!! I take my BOAT! To bps.

Chevy till I die!


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## MWScott72

I used to be a Chevy guy until about 5 years ago when I bought a new RAM. Don't think I'll be going back anytime soon!


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## Fowlmouth

Ford for me, but I have a Chevy and Chrysler too....


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## paddler

Fowlmouth said:


> Ford for me, but I have a Chevy and Chrysler too....


Ford for me, too. Now on my third Expedition. It may be the best car I've had. I had a couple of GM products in the past. Not great, I won't be buying another. I wonder if I should go with a longtail or surface drive.


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## MWScott72

Been looking around and this boat intrigues me. What do you guys think? Listed at 7K (OBO). The boat is custom built with 0.125" aluminum. Flat bottom but has a pointed mod-V type bow. Says floats in 2" of water, can handle 1,500 lbs, and weighs 500. Storage bins up front and along the sides of the boat. Lights wired. The fabricator is a welder and told me all the welds are to a 70,000 lb strength. Comes with the outboard. It's a 1970 Johnson. Yeah, not ideal, but can still buy a brand new mud motor and mount it during the hunts and use the outboard for fishing Trailer is a "bay" trailer, single axle. Has probably 15-16" wheels.


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## Fowlmouth

That boat looks super wide. It also looks like the front would push a wall of water, and for $7k plus a minimum of $8500 for a Surface Drive to push that thing, I would buy an Excel or Widowmaker for the same money.

Edit: The transom on that boat looks straight up and down, not angled. A mudmotor may not work on it.


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## Fowlmouth

Chuck Harsin at Widowmaker boats has this 2014 1844 Widowmaker boat with a 35 HP Backwater Motor for $14K. This is a nice rig. Give him a call if you're interested.


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## MWScott72

Fowlmouth said:


> That boat looks super wide. It also looks like the front would push a wall of water, and for $7k plus a minimum of $8500 for a Surface Drive to push that thing, I would buy an Excel or Widowmaker for the same money.
> 
> Edit: The transom on that boat looks straight up and down, not angled. A mudmotor may not work on it.


The transom has a 12.5 degree pitch. I believe that was the angle he told me.

It is 60" wide as opposed to the 48" that seem to be standard.


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## goosefreak

for $7k (or a little more) you can get a way better set up. No chine on that boat looks like it would be a steering nightmare. If it were me, having owned multiple types of boats, id keep looking.


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## utahbigbull

For $7.5k, I will sell you my set up. I just had something come up to where I’m selling mine. It’s a 6 year old 14x42 alumacraft with a 3 year old back water 23hp motor that has 115 hours. Camo paint, blind is newly rebuilt from the ground up. One year old beefed up trailer axle with oil bath bearings (would never have to replace-pack trailer bearings again). Also has rear pods chuck at widow maker put on it. If you’re interestrd, let me know. This thing is literally turn key ready for this season to the guy that wants it.


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## gander311

That homemade boat looks well made like a tank. And it’ll probably drive like a tank. Slow and straight!

It’d be a nice big stable platform, but heavy and hard to get around I’d guess. I also agree that you’d be better off with another setup.


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## MWScott72

utahbigbull said:


> For $7.5k, I will sell you my set up. I just had something come up to where I'm selling mine. It's a 6 year old 14x42 alumacraft with a 3 year old back water 23hp motor that has 115 hours. Camo paint, blind is newly rebuilt from the ground up. One year old beefed up trailer axle with oil bath bearings (would never have to replace-pack trailer bearings again). Also has rear pods chuck at widow maker put on it. If you're interestrd, let me know. This thing is literally turn key ready for this season to the guy that wants it.


I am interested UTBigbull. Where do you live? I like that it's ready to rock too. PM me you phone and I'll give u a call.


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## MWScott72

I appreciate everyone's advice on here! It has been very helpful. The wife decided to melt down a bit yesterday, so a complet setup under 10K is what I'll have to go for right now. It will be my "starter boat" with bigger, future plans.


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## utahbigbull

MWScott72 said:


> I am interested UTBigbull. Where do you live? I like that it's ready to rock too. PM me you phone and I'll give u a call.


PM sent


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## JerryH

MWScott72 said:


> I appreciate everyone's advice on here! It has been very helpful. The wife decided to melt down a bit yesterday, so a complet setup under 10K is what I'll have to go for right now. It will be my "starter boat" with bigger, future plans.


The meltdown happens when you're gone every weekend lol


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## MWScott72

JerryH said:


> MWScott72 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate everyone's advice on here! It has been very helpful. The wife decided to melt down a bit yesterday, so a complet setup under 10K is what I'll have to go for right now. It will be my "starter boat" with bigger, future plans.
> 
> 
> 
> The meltdown happens when you're gone every weekend lol
Click to expand...

Yep - been there. Not looking forward to it this fall...


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## JerryH

MWScott72 said:


> Yep - been there. Not looking forward to it this fall...


This trend seems to continue for a few years. Long after the its only 107 day excuse is burned out. Then one day 
Something clicks (i haven't figured this part out yet) and she will say your going hunting this weekend. Meaning she can't stand to see you miserable and your driving her crazy. Utopia!


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## MWScott72

Well...finally dropped the cash and bought a rig. 1648 flat John, 23hp Mudd Buddy Mini SD (only 37 hours on it), hydroturf, Front /back LEDs, interior LEDs, blind, some sort of slick coating on the bottom, and trailer (with good tires!). Oh yeah, forgot the paddle! 😉 Ended up costing $7800

Now, if it didn't take 2 weeks to get into the DMV to get the title transferred and boat registered...


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## goosefreak

MWScott72 said:


> Well...finally dropped the cash and bought a rig. 1648 flat John, 23hp Mudd Buddy Mini SD (only 37 hours on it), hydroturf, Front /back LEDs, interior LEDs, blind, some sort of slick coating on the bottom, and trailer (with good tires!). Oh yeah, forgot the paddle! &#128521; Ended up costing $7800
> 
> Now, if it didn't take 2 weeks to get into the DMV to get the title transferred and boat registered...


You can always put the BPS upgrades on that motor and get 8-10 more HP


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## MWScott72

BPS upgrades? The motor does have a Mikuno(?) carb kit installed.


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## Fowlmouth

MWScott72 said:


> BPS upgrades? The motor does have a Mikuno(?) carb kit installed.


https://backwaterperformance.com/co...ce-package-black-death-stage-1-small-vanguard


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## MWScott72

Interesting, so the 23 becomes a 30-31. I like it...


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## MWScott72

Here's a follow-up question related to this...but not really. Where do you guys get your boat covers? With a 16'×48" Alumacraft, do you order them online? Does Sugarhouse Awning do them custom? Just wondering because I would like to protect it once the weather turns south. Thoughts or recommendations? I appreciate it!


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## gander311

I've gone the route of the expensive built canvas cover from a custom shop, but in was a few hundred bucks, and still only lasted a few season before it got a big hole. 

I've since gone to the cheap Cabelas one that's only like $50 or $60 and they last a couple seasons. However, the one I bought had a warranty (I can't remember if it was lifetime, or 5 years or something) and Cabelas has always honored the warranty and given me a new one. I've been through like 3 of them over the last 6-8 years.


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## MWScott72

Thanks Gander - I'll have to check out what Cabelas has. I've kind of gotten away from them since the Bass take over. So far, I had only checked Rogers, and they didn't have much.


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## fish-n-fool

MWScott72 said:


> Well...finally dropped the cash and bought a rig. 1648 flat John, 23hp Mudd Buddy Mini SD (only 37 hours on it), hydroturf, Front /back LEDs, interior LEDs, blind, some sort of slick coating on the bottom, and trailer (with good tires!). Oh yeah, forgot the paddle! &#128521; Ended up costing $7800
> 
> Now, if it didn't take 2 weeks to get into the DMV to get the title transferred and boat registered...


Very nice boat and motor. But in the picture those mufflers pointing up is going to allow rain,snow,sprinklers to get water into them. First thing I would do is get them pointed down. Would hate to see you get water in the cylinders.


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## MWScott72

fish-n-fool said:


> MWScott72 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well...finally dropped the cash and bought a rig. 1648 flat John, 23hp Mudd Buddy Mini SD (only 37 hours on it), hydroturf, Front /back LEDs, interior LEDs, blind, some sort of slick coating on the bottom, and trailer (with good tires!). Oh yeah, forgot the paddle! &#128521; Ended up costing $7800
> 
> Now, if it didn't take 2 weeks to get into the DMV to get the title transferred and boat registered...
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice boat and motor. But in the picture those mufflers pointing up is going to allow rain,snow,sprinklers to get water into them. First thing I would do is get them pointed down. Would hate to see you get water in the cylinders.
Click to expand...

Thanks FNF. I will give that a look.


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## APD

i had a 1436 w/ longtail. can't remember the hp but must have been 8-12hp. slow as could be and unstable too. i pieced together a used 1648 riveted with a used 23 mini surface drive. it does around 20 mph in most conditions. 18-23 is the range that i see. i don't run more than a dog and 1 or 2 other people max. if more then i'd look for a bigger boat and motor.

basic add ons:
i added pods on the back for flotation since most of my weight is back there and they may have worked but the nice perks are that they act as a step or place for the dog to sit. also keeps the boat from turning too tight if you get lazy.

hydro turf "B" grade is a huge upgrade to slick bare aluminum and it weighs nothing. get a spray can and stick it on anything your feet or butt touches.

i also would add a fabricated transom saver if you're on bumpy roads at all. mine mounts from the fin on the bottom of the drive to the trailer. 

while i'm thinking about it, the tiny red and white led lights i wired up for early morning cookouts on the boat are really nice too.


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## APD

didn't see your previous. looks like you did buy a similar boat to mine. i won't mention how lucky i got on pricing. the motor had 7 hrs on it when i got it. since then i've put custom exhaust (my build not mud buddy) and done the rocker/lifter upgrade. can't say either was really worth it though. only thing i wish i had was a clutch on the drive.

oh yea, don't pump too much grease into the lower drive zerk. it's always just one more pump:sad:


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## Fowlmouth

Who needs a boat cover?:smile: 
I just put a heavy blue tarp over it now. Works good for rain and snow, but I can't travel with it.


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## MWScott72

Fowlmouth said:


> Who needs a boat cover?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just put a heavy blue tarp over it now. Works good for rain and snow, but I can't travel with it.


Is there a cover on that FM? Looks like the whole snowstorm is "in" your boat &#128521;


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## Fowlmouth

MWScott72 said:


> Is there a cover on that FM? Looks like the whole snowstorm is "in" your boat &#128521;


Nope, no cover. After that storm is when I got the blue tarp and it works pretty good. I get what snow I can off the cover first, and then pull the tarp from the back to the front and the rest falls off.,


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## mtgreenheads

Thanks for the great information. I've got a 17 52 Widowmaker on order. Trying to decide on a motor...


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## goosefreak

mtgreenheads said:


> Thanks for the great information. I've got a 17 52 Widowmaker on order. Trying to decide on a motor...


37 or 40 EFI...... The good ol workhorse 35 would also be a good option.


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