# bare with me, I'm new.



## ckamanao (Mar 20, 2010)

I'm looing at getting into tossing some bugs and this seems like it'd be the best place to start picking some brains. Ive been using hardware for all my life and primarily only fish rivers. I'd like to get a decent rod/reel set up but dont want it to kill my check book. I'm also curious as to what i should start with, wet or dry. I ordered a Cabelas flyfishing catalog and it all seems a bit intimidating with all the rods, reels, line, backing, tippet. Any info would be great.


----------



## Grandpa D (Sep 7, 2007)

You can get a good fly fishing set up for about $100.00.
Look for a 8 1/2' or 9' rod in a 5 or 6 weight.
You will want a rod that had at least 10 eyelets on it.
This makes the line cast a lot better.

Both dry and wet [nymphs] flies will be in order.
For wet flies, try Hairs Ears, Pheasant Tails, WD 40s, Prince Nymphs and Copper Johns.
Use these flies in size 16 to 20.
For dries, you will use different flies in the spring, summer and fall.
Blue Wing Olives are good spring dries.
Griffith Gnats in size 20 to 24 can be used all the time.
Summer months are fun as you can cast big bugs like Hoppers and Stimmulators.
Elk Hair Caddis also works in the late spring and summer.

Start out with a few choices and watch for reports of what is working.
Have fun and tight lines,
Grandpa D.


----------



## troutwhisperer (Jan 1, 2009)

Grandpa D nailed this one down !  you can buy flyrods complete wth rods,reels,& line that balance it all out, with the proper weight line. I would get a floating line to start , I have seen good ones at Sportsman Warehouse, Cabelas, Smith & Edwards.


----------



## sparky00045 (Apr 1, 2008)

do you live up north, there is a great fly fishing class that go on at davis high school, it pretty cheap and alot of good info for beginners

http://www.wildtrouts.com/fly_fishing_school.html

he has begining and advanced classes give it a try


----------



## Leaky (Sep 11, 2007)

Well;.I'm going to give you a little different answer. I would suggest you review the posts in areas like the Provo, and the Weeb.and other areas that are close to you and ask questions by pm. If I can help, give me a pm and I'll give it a shot. Up front. I use *old cheap* fly rod and reals and I have all the success I need.


----------



## ckamanao (Mar 20, 2010)

i keep looking through the rod/reel combos that they have at sportsmans and cabelas, I just dont want to buy something that is crap and wont last. which is easier, wet or dry. Drifting nymphs seems to be a bit more technical with strike indicators, sinking lines, and such. but it also seems like it'd be less-pinpoint casting for someone who is new.


----------



## Packfish (Oct 30, 2007)

If you keep care of what you purchase most of even the cheaper Cabelas will last you. Rememeber- for what you will do for the first few years a reel just holds line. The Cabelas started kit isn't that bad of way of going. Line control and not standing on it will be one of the first things you want to be aware of - and no matter how good looking you may be------- I'm not getting bare with you :lol:


----------



## Grandpa D (Sep 7, 2007)

ckamanao said:


> i keep looking through the rod/reel combos that they have at sportsmans and cabelas, I just dont want to buy something that is crap and wont last. which is easier, wet or dry. Drifting nymphs seems to be a bit more technical with strike indicators, sinking lines, and such. but it also seems like it'd be less-pinpoint casting for someone who is new.


The Cabelas starter combios are good.
Look for one that is 8 1/2" to 9' in 5 or 6 weight and you will be fine.


----------



## kochanut (Jan 10, 2010)

check this out also every day (since it changes every 24 hours) you can get some amazing deals:

www.dealsonthefly.com


----------



## flyguy7 (Sep 16, 2007)

Cheaper fly rods are always more durable than the better, more expensive rods. Higher end rods are made from better quality graphite in which less scrim is used in the construction. Scrim is a fiberglass filler that fills all the empty spots in a blank where there is little or no graphite. Because lower end (cheaper) rods have a higher scrim to graphite level they are stronger and more durable. But this is why cheaper rods feel heavier in your hand and more limber: fiberglass is heavier and less stiff than graphite. All rods are made with some scrim. The quality of the graphite and construction of the rod determines how much is to be used. High end rods also use progressive tapers in their construction. They have a linear, graduated taper where cheaper rods used stepped tapers in their construction because this is more cost efficient to produce. Progressive taper rods have to be rolled over a mandrel by hand, one at a time. Another cost cutting measure is the ferrules on all higher end rods are all custom built to match up to each rod perfectly. Cheaper rods are just built to specifications for that particular rod. This is why you have to send the entire rod back for warranty instead of just sending out a tip for the rod for companies such as Sage, Scott, and Winston. I just got back my 905-4 Scott S3 today and even though it was the tip that was broken, they completely rebuilt every ferrule on the rod.

Cheap rods are built to LAST, and high end rods are built to CAST!


----------



## Gee LeDouche (Sep 21, 2007)

I just picked up a nice cheapo setup from Big 5 (of all places) its an Eagle Claw rod, real, floating line, tippet, flies and clippers for about 30 bucks. its a 3 piece 8 foot pole and comes pre-loaded with line. for the price, I couldnt be happier. I am just a beginer and didnt want to burn a lot of cash on an expensive setup and I like Eagle Claws product for the most part. its at least something to look into.. I think its called the "myfly8" model. here is a link to what it looks like,,

http://www.troutlet.com/Eagle-Claw-Card ... -P791.aspx

but anywho. for the price I couldnt be happier. I'm tickled pink.. n stuff


----------



## kochanut (Jan 10, 2010)

if money wasent an issue:

http://www.orvis.com/store/product.aspx ... t_id=19160

especially since they are running the free reel promotion also.


----------



## cacherinthewry (Dec 20, 2007)

Being new to it, where do you want to flyfish, for what kind of fish? Rivers? Lakes?

Where and how do you fish with gear? If you're used to fishing with a worm & splitshot on a river, nymphing with a fly isn't much different. If you fish lakes from a boat/toon/tube, you'll need some different gear, and might want a heavier or longer rod. If you fish a lot of smaller streams you might want a lighter, shorter rod.

I disagree that a cheap rod is the way to start. Spend a little more on a rod with a lifetime warranty( plenty of choices between $150-$200), get a cheap reel, and expect to pay around $50 for a fly line that is designed to help you cast easier (meaning not an eagle claw plastic coated string). You're not far from Cabela's, or FishWest in Sandy. Both are great choices for finding starter kits, and both have great staff that can really help you start right.

Look at rods from Cabela's, Cortland, St. Croix and Echo for great, durable, affordable rods that have great performance for the dollar.

Just because it's 9 feet long and $50 doesn't mean it's going to be a good fly rod for you. Figure out where, how & what you want to fish for, and then look for the best tool for the money. You can spend $20 on an ultralight ice rod with a spinning reel & line, but it wouldn't be the right tool to jig for macs at the Gorge.


----------



## flyfitch (Sep 22, 2007)

Don't go cheap on the rod. You will regret it in the future. 
The reel is a different story. All it is used for is to store line. You can go cheap on that. I have a couple of reels that don't even have a drag. My reels that have a drag, I turn it off anyway. 
In my opinion, I would go with a 4 wt. rod. I prefer 8 1/2'. 
If fishing around here in Utah, you won't find rivers large enough to need the backbone of a 5/6 wt., but there are plenty of smaller streams that would make a large rod frustrating. The 4wt. will also work great on still water. Remember, if you are on a tube, you don't need to throw a fly 60'. You can kick to anywhere you need to and get in close enough for a perfect cast.
This is only one man's opinion though.


----------



## Grandpa D (Sep 7, 2007)

While I enjoy using my 2 wt, 3 wt, and 4wt rods, when I was first starting out, a 5 or 6 wt was easier to cast.
Now that I have my casting down, it doesn't matter.
I still think that for a first rod a 5 or 6 wt 8 1/2 or 9' is best.
These rods will also throw a sinking line very well.


----------



## ckamanao (Mar 20, 2010)

I'm probably just going to be fishing rivers and streams. Mostly middle provo, american fork, and hobble creek. I'm not a big fan of fishing the lakes because i dont have a boat or tube.


----------



## Grandpa D (Sep 7, 2007)

ckamanao said:


> I'm probably just going to be fishing rivers and streams. Mostly middle provo, american fork, and hobble creek. I'm not a big fan of fishing the lakes because i dont have a boat or tube.


With that type of fishing, a 4 wt 8' rod will be a great choice.
The only draw back will be if you choose to fish larger, weighted nymphs or streamers.
It will work for them but your rod will feel like it's coming apart when casting.


----------



## flyfitch (Sep 22, 2007)

> With that type of fishing, a 4 wt 8' rod will be a great choice.
> The only draw back will be if you choose to fish larger, weighted nymphs or streamers.
> It will work for them but your rod will feel like it's coming apart when casting.


My Diamond Back VSR 4wt. throws weighted nymphs and streamers like a dream. This is why I would spend a little extra and buy a nice rod.


----------

