# Blind test: which broadhead would you hunt with?



## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

Broadhead A:
1. Shoots really nicely out of my bow, definitely as accurate as field points.
2. Leaves a hole in various objects I've "hunted" that is about the size of a nickel.
3. Seems to penetrate really well.
4. Can be re-sharpened and re-used no problem.
5. Has longer blades than broadhead B, but is a 3 blade head.

Broadhead B:
1. Does not shoot as accurately as field points out of my bow right now. I consistently hit low with this broadhead. 
2. Absolutely destroys these "hunted" objects. My target just shreds wherever this thing hits. Fruit is turned to mush. The entrance holes this head leaves look like a golf ball, no joke. 
3. Penetrates fine as well, maybe not quite as deeply into a target as broadhead A. 
4. Cannot be re-sharpened. Uses replaceable blades.
5. Has shorter blades than broadhead A, but is a 4 blade head. 

Broadhead C:
Not on the market yet. Let's leave it out of the equation for now.


----------



## proutdoors (Sep 24, 2007)

EPEK 125 gr.


----------



## Riverrat77 (Sep 7, 2007)

Not knowing the names of the broadheads, I'd say go with A just because you know you're accurate with it. Why risk a bad shot? For me it would depend on whether it was mechanical or fixed as well. Too scared of bad performance by mechanicals (just word of mouth about personal experiences) to use them at this point.


----------



## TEX-O-BOB (Sep 12, 2007)

*ALWAYS* stay with the one that gives you the most confidence in making a clean kill! Half of bowhunting is between your ears, and if you don't have the piece of mind to know that your set-up is performing flawlessly you're cutting your legs out from under you before you even go into the field.

Besides, it's all about arrow placement and woodsmanship anyway.


----------



## stablebuck (Nov 22, 2007)

make sure you are close enough to your target and use broadhead B


----------



## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

1 vote for broadhead C; Prooutdoors doesn't mind directions very well.  

1 vote for broadhead A

1 vote for broadhead B

1 piece of sound advice. Wanting to vote A, but not quite ready to give up on C yet. 

Let's get some more votes! I'll reveal the name of the broadheads later. This is like a taste test in which the taster is blindfolded. I once found out I preferred Albertson's store brand lemon-lime soda over Sprite, 7-Up, and Sierra Mist because I tasted them all blindfolded. o-||


----------



## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

> Too scared of bad performance by mechanicals (just word of mouth about personal experiences) to use them at this point.


Hint: both A & B are fixed blade broadheads. :mrgreen:


----------



## c3hammer (Nov 1, 2009)

Sounds like they both stink. Any head that only leaves a hole the size of golf ball is useless.


----------



## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

> Any head that only leaves a hole the size of golf ball is useless.


Everybody's a comedian these days. You must go through a lot of targets. :|


----------



## longbow (Mar 31, 2009)

Broadhead A.

Don't be fooled by glitz and glammor and all the crap that some manufactures shove down your throat. It flies good, it penatrates. Your going to hit what you aim at and your going to kill it.


----------



## Briar Patch (Feb 1, 2010)

> Postby longbow
> Broadhead A.
> ... It flies good, it penatrates. Your going to hit what you aim at and your going to kill it.


+1


----------



## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

Broadhead A: G5 Montec CS

Broadhead B: Grizz Trick

The results keep surprising me. I've been working my way through a few broadheads this summer, trying to find the perfect head for my LE elk hunt. These are the two finalists. I know Montecs haven't gotten the greatest reviews in some corners. They shoot lights out from my bow. I shoot a 60 lb. Ross Cardiac that only fires my arrow load at a non-blistering 259 fps. I'm thinking maybe the slower speed is like a happy place for the Montec broadheads, because I hit center circle almost every time from 40 yards and in. It took me about an hour out of the box to get 6 broadheads sharp like I like them. They are fairly dull to start with.

The Grizz Trick flies OK out of my bow. I'm consistently 3 inches low at 30 yards and double that at 45. I do believe I could adjust for this broadhead because they are consistent. The damage they do is incredible.


----------



## stablebuck (Nov 22, 2007)

The Montec will kill just fine and I'm pretty sure it has the same cutting diameter as the grizz trick. Just different number of blades but the Montec should be adequate as long as you have sharp blades. I'm using slick tricks because I want the penetration and accuracy of a smaller cutting diameter and then 4 blades for more cutting surface in general. My first guess was A was like a G5 striker and B was like a Magnus buzzcut. But you've got two similar broadheads...one just flies better out of your set up. Where is your tag for?


----------



## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

> Where is your tag for?


North Cache


----------



## c3hammer (Nov 1, 2009)

BirdDogger said:


> Everybody's a comedian these days. You must go through a lot of targets.


Targets and critters are two completely different things. The tissue on a critter stretches in with the impact and the blades slice close to the length of the head and significantly wider than the blade height its self. A golf ball size cut in the hide is very poor in my experience.

Cheers,
Pete


----------



## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

> Targets and critters are two completely different things. The tissue on a critter stretches in with the impact and the blades slice close to the length of the head and significantly wider than the blade height its self. A golf ball size cut in the hide is very poor in my experience.


It's getting so hard to find plywood or canteloupes fitted with internal elk organs these days.  Do you know of something that assimilates tissue?


----------



## stablebuck (Nov 22, 2007)

Great danes and english mastiffs simulate pretty well. I would've gladly donated my old roommate's great dane for a field test...hated that dog...


----------



## blazingsaddle (Mar 11, 2008)

Why not just tune your bow to shoot BH B?


----------



## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

> Why not just tune your bow to shoot BH B?


I could. Thus the reason for the poll question. 

Then begs the question of how will I get all the practice in that I want without all the expense of using hunting broadheads for target practice?


----------



## stablebuck (Nov 22, 2007)

replacement blades on 20 August!


----------



## blazingsaddle (Mar 11, 2008)

If your BH hits close you your FT, it shouldn't take very long at all. I sacrifice one BH every year to tune my bow to.
The goal is to get your BH and FT to have the same point of impact.

To do this is very simple. Once you get them hiting the same place, you can continue to shoot only FT in practice, but know your BHs are spot on.

You want to chase your FT with your BH, by making very minor adjustments to your rest. If your BH hits just right of you FT, move your rest to the left. (or vise versa)
If your BH hits above/below your FT, then move either your knock point or your rest, to move your BH to your FT. If its a small amount off, I will move the rest, because its easier than moving your knock point.
Once your BH hits the same place as your FTs, than move your sight to get them to hit where you aim.

The premise behind this is, slight adjustments to your setup, will affect your BH more than it will affect your FT. Your BH WILL catch up to your FT. BHs have to be shot out of a tuned bow. FTs can be accurate out of an out of tune bow, BHs will not be accurate out of out of tune bow.

Again, the beauty of this is, once its done, you do not have to shoot BH for practice. I do this every year 1-2 months before the hunt starts.
You should try this- once you do it you will love it.


----------



## c3hammer (Nov 1, 2009)

Another option is to buy a stone. You know that most FB's do resharpen quite easily in just a few minutes?   

Cheers,
Pete


----------



## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

Blazingsaddle, excellent information and thank you. The tuning process would really help me get to know my bow as well. I got one of these newfangled compound models with a fancy schmancy rest and release aid this year after finger-shooting an old bow with glue-on plastic rests and the same Fred Bear broadheads for the past I-can't-remember-that-far-back number of years. 


I do think going through the tuning process is something I want to do. I believe I'll save the tuning for next spring, though. Right now I'm comfortable and confident in my shots with the Montec broadhead. I've been shooting all summer. For a really knowledgeable shooter it might not be any big deal to change things this late in the game. It could be disastrous for a dingleberry like me. _(O)_ 

Broadhead A wins...though I haven't tried broadhead C yet. :O•-:


----------



## blazingsaddle (Mar 11, 2008)

Good point- why mess with something that doesn't need messing with?


----------



## shawnsanchez1 (Jun 24, 2010)

EPEK XC-3 100GR BEST BROAD HEAD ON THE MARKET


----------



## Riverrat77 (Sep 7, 2007)

shawnsanchez1 said:


> EPEK XC-3 100GR BEST BROAD HEAD ON THE MARKET


Could be for some folks... but sounds like he's got a couple solid choices already in hand. 8)


----------



## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

*Further Testing*

I set up at 45 yards just to give one last look at three broadheads and how they would perform with a simulated "elk" I created. My elk consists of a hunk of leather strapped behind a bag target, then some bales of straw. I kind of thought that the piece of leather might be like shooting through a hide, while the bag is soft like innards (I'm a nerd, I know :roll:  ).

The Carbon Express F-15 fixed blade- This broadhead and arrow passes through everything. I have no doubt it would pass through an animal. It actually shot OK at 45, but I'm not showing the 50 yard shot that was 9 inches low. I don't know which result to believe because I lost a vane on the arrow and didn't shoot it again.

























The Slick Trick- This broadhead always leaves a good hole, but does not pass through the bag. I also don't shoot it as accurately. 

















The G5 Montec- I'm in the circle every time at any distance out to 50 yards. The arrow passes through completely, though the holes left are smaller in diameter than the others.


----------



## Archery Addict (Aug 7, 2010)

This is a great post! I especially like the part about how to tune your bow to shoot broadheads straight! Thanks for that. I shoot Montec CS's and love them!


----------



## Quacker Smacker (Mar 3, 2010)

i bought the g5 montec cs for my LE antelope hunt i love these broadheads and wouldnt trade them for anything


----------



## c3hammer (Nov 1, 2009)

This test is inline with what I've seen from the NAP Hellrazor. It is a very similar head ot the G5 Montec. Maybe a bit slimmer between the blades. They leave virtually no hole beyond the actual blade height in critters. Heads with a larger chisel point like the sliick trick, Wacem or G5 Striker seem to stretch the hide in and cut more the length of the head rather than just the blade height. They may not show as much penetration in a test like this, but on actual critters seem to do a much better job in my experience.

Cheers,
Pete


----------



## stablebuck (Nov 22, 2007)

field point on the left...epek xc-3 on the right...30 yards...


----------



## team-A&S (Feb 1, 2010)

B is a muzzy 

A i am still puzzled


----------

