# First bow advice



## Hunter2015 (Oct 1, 2015)

I'm looking at getting a bow within the next couple of weeks and giving the extended archery a go (3rd year of not drawing a gs tag). Im as boot as it comes to this world of archery. I got my draw length measured at Sportsmans at 29 1/2. So I've been shopping around, I got a price cap of about $600. I've been looking at these package "ready to shoot" bows at Cabelas and Sportsmans like the Bear Archery Cruzer, Diamond Infinite Edge, PSE stinger x, and PSE brute force. Pros and cons to the ready to hunt bows? Any advice or tips would be more than welcome.


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## snw_brdr10 (May 20, 2014)

Pro: Ready to shoot and hunt with. You can get a decent bow and start shooting it immediately.

Con: Usually not the greatest of accessories, so you will soon find yourself replacing them.

If $600 is your price range and you're buying from a big box store, check out the Quest Forge. I purchased from Sportsman's because I had a $400 gift card. I went in and tried out the bow's you listed because they were more affordable. But then I picked up the forge and instantly realized I was getting way more bow for the money. So I ended up spending around $550 and am extremely happy.

But here is the advice everyone will give you: Let the bow choose you.

Go shoot them, and pick the one you like the best and feels most comfortable. Choose the one that you can get it done with. In my case, I ended up spending more for that bow. In others cases, sometimes they end up spending less. Just go shoot a variety and see what you like best.

Hope that helps. Just my $.02


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## ISHY (Dec 4, 2015)

http://www.huntersfriend.com/archery-help/compound-bow-guide-price-vs-performance.html
These guys have tons of good nonbiased advise. Well worth thumbing through their stuff a couple times.


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## AF CYN (Mar 19, 2009)

PSE, Bear, and Diamond all make good bows. Shoot several and see what you think. As mentioned above, the accessories aren't top of the line, but they're decent considering your budget. You could probably get a nice bow on KSL for a similar price, but it will be a couple of years old.


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## Hunter2015 (Oct 1, 2015)

Thanks guys for the advice and the article. That was a really informative read. You guys advice is exactly what everyone else is telling me, go shoot them all and see what you like. I went and shot the Hoyt Charger and really liked that one. I need to shoot some others to compare though. Thanks again, I'll let yall know what I end up getting


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## Hunter2015 (Oct 1, 2015)

snw_brdr10 said:


> Pro: Ready to shoot and hunt with. You can get a decent bow and start shooting it immediately.
> 
> Con: Usually not the greatest of accessories, so you will soon find yourself replacing them.
> 
> ...


You said you spent $550. Did that include your gift card? Or was that to set the bow up ready to hunt, arrows and all?


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## snw_brdr10 (May 20, 2014)

Hunter2015 said:


> You said you spent $550. Did that include your gift card? Or was that to set the bow up ready to hunt, arrows and all?


The bow was around $550 and came ready to hunt minus the arrows. So I ended spending a couple hundred if you add the gift card.


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## PBH (Nov 7, 2007)

$600 for a first bow? Sounds like a pretty nice budget to me!

I've been hunting archery since I was 14 (26 years). I've never spent more than $600 for a bow! You can get a nice setup with those "ready to shoot" packages. I've been shooting PSE for a number of years now -- love my PSE Phenom.

One thing I hate about shopping for bows in today's world is that the whole market is driven towards White Tail hunters that sit in blinds or in trees. Everything is short axle-to-axle. I like long axle-to-axle bows. For a beginner shooter, forgiveness will be something to consider, and longer axle-to-axle bows are more forgiving. Of course, much of this is simply personal preference and confidence in your equipment.

As has been mentioned, go shoot some and see how they feel to you. Don't get suckered in to all the hype surrounding many of the overpriced "fancy" bows and equipment. The thing to remember is: keep it simple stupid!


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## alpinebowman (Sep 24, 2007)

The hoyt chargers are a great bow as well. You can grab a RTS package new for that or a used one for a couple hundred less. I just tuned one up for a customer and was really happy with how well it tuned. some of the low end stuff is not very tuner friendly. also be sure to know what you draw length is. I know you said they measured you but how did they do it? I have seen a few 5'6" archers "measured" at places and told they have a 29" draw. Best way to get close is measure your wingspan and divide that number by 2.5. then round down to the nearest 1/2 inch. besides the D-loop adding length a lot of bows draw longer than what they say. 
And as others have said shoot a bunch of brands and price levels. there are some great lower end bows and some junk high end bows. and if you end up liking the high end check out the used market on places like KSL and archery talk. Bows loose value in a hurry so you can get a 2 year old bow for less than half price.
I would also stay away from the bow that give you large amounts or DL(draw length) and DW(draw weight) options on the same cam/bow. These bows aren't really built to perform well at any setting so you loose a ton of efficiency. If you have stopped growing go with a bow that is in your general range and you will be much happier. also I would stay away from DL specific bows as it is expensive you buy cams if you DL is off. being a new archer you just don't know what your optimal DL is going to be and yes a 1/4" can make a difference.


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## nelsonccc (Jul 8, 2014)

ISHY said:


> http://www.huntersfriend.com/archery-help/compound-bow-guide-price-vs-performance.html
> These guys have tons of good nonbiased advise. Well worth thumbing through their stuff a couple times.


This. It's where I started and still shoot the PSE Stinger 3G I got from them and the arrows. I've since upgraded the sight, release, rest, and string but did all that over the past two years as I found I needed something different or got the upgrade bug.

They walked me through exactly how to measure and fit and it was perfect and still is. Highly recommend.


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## Hunter2015 (Oct 1, 2015)

So an update. It ended up that I didnt have to make a choice in the end on which bow I wanted. My wife suprised me for my birthday with a Bear Attitude RTH package from Cabelas. Im pretty freaking stoked!!! I have absolutely zero complaints about her getting me that, and im gonna make it work. I took it in to Cabelas and had them adjust the draw length and weight. So now alls im needing is a release and some arrows. Any suggestions for either or those, or advice in general for me being a boot to the archery world? I plan on giving the extended archery a go this year since Utah doesnt wanna give me a rifle deer tag for the past 2 years. I dont want advice on where to go, thats part of the fun. But advice on arrows, broadheads, and a release would be more than welcome! Thank you all for your help!


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## deljoshua (Jul 29, 2013)

This is my first year trying out archery so I'm no expert (far far from it) but here is where I'm at. I have Mathews switchback bow with a 30" draw and about a 68lb draw weight. I have been practicing for about 7 months now and have tried 340 and 400 spine arrows and both seemed to fly ok but I have been told by many people that hunt archery that I should be shooting a 300 spine. So now I have some Berman 300 spine arrows that should be just right. I talked to lots and lots of people about which broad heads to use because there are sooooo many different ones and everyone had a different idea of what I should use. I ended up with 100 grain muzzy's. They seem to be a very simple reliable broad head so we'll see how it goes in a few months. I do know of a couple of places that you can pick up a realese and arrows for way cheaper than cabelas or sportsman's. Message me if want the info to check it out.


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## SidVicious (Aug 19, 2014)

Congrats on the bow! Archery hunters have it pretty well here in Utah with long seasons and opportunities. Just takes a little more work. I shoot gold tip arrows and really like them. I shoot 345 Gr. arrows. That will depend on your draw weight and whatnot. I heard that you can find the correct spine by multiplying your draw weight by 5. Someone correct me if I am wrong on that. I shoot a Scott Samurai release, and I really like it. I shoot G5 montec fixed blade and the G5 T-3 mechanical. Both of which have been awesome. I shoot 100 Gr. on both of those as well.


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## bow_dude (Aug 20, 2009)

Sid... That is not draw weight, that is minimum arrow weight. If your bow is warrantied to 5 grains per lb, then 350 is the minimum weight you can shoot to keep your bow warranty and insure the bow does not blow up on the shot. If it is 6, than you multiply by 6 times the draw weight you are shooting for the minimum arrow weight. Most bows anymore have a 5 grain per draw weight minimum. You need to know what it is for your own safety. Use the arrow charts or a computer program for determining the correct spine. 

Del... I shot the same setup as yours for several years. I used a 300 spine arrow. A 340 is pretty close, but a 400 is too weak. It may seem to shoot okay, but as an experiment, group shoot the 400's and 340's. You will find that the 340's will group better/tighter. Broadheads will make the 400's fly even worse. Don't be concerned about over spine. No such thing when using a release and a drop away rest. Shooting a stick bow is a different matter and you need to be aware of correct spine. 

When using a spine chart, you need to take into consideration the length of the shaft, what is on the bow string, the cam type, broadhead weight, release or fingers, feathers or vanes. Most people only look at the bow weight and length of the shaft. If they can hit the bread box at 20 yards, they figure all is well.


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## SidVicious (Aug 19, 2014)

bow_dude, thank you for clearing that up! Makes a lot more sense. I'll stop spreading false information all over the internet now haha.


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## goofy elk (Dec 16, 2007)

Hunter2015,
Your wife has good taste !

I'm a 'Bear' archery guy for some 45 years now.......................


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## AF CYN (Mar 19, 2009)

Take a look at Scott releases. I've used the Sabertooth and the Shark. For arrows, I agree with Bowdude--pick the spine based on your arrow length and draw weight (most people shoot arrows slightly longer than their draw length). I shoot Gold Tip. In the past, I used the Cabelas brand, which also worked really well for me.


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## APD (Nov 16, 2008)

AF CYN said:


> Take a look at Scott releases. I've used the Sabertooth and the Shark. For arrows, I agree with Bowdude--pick the spine based on your arrow length and draw weight (most people shoot arrows slightly longer than their draw length). I shoot Gold Tip. In the past, I used the Cabelas brand, which also worked really well for me.


i have enjoyed gold tip off/ re-brands, such as the rogue from scheels. they are great arrows and strong when compared to others that i see at 3d shoots.

i've slowly shortened my arrows from around ~32.5" to 28.5"(carbon to carbon) for my 30" draw. i've shortened mostly for a stiffer spine. it's still an inch plus ahead of my rest and i'm not concerned about finger contact with BH's.


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## bow_dude (Aug 20, 2009)

I too am a 30 inch draw. My arrows are 28.25 inches carbon to carbon. Mostly depends upon the rest placement as to what length to cut the shafts. The old school of thought was 1 inch past the front of the riser. Then bow manufacturers started window cut outs in the riser which negated the need for such a long shaft. My broad heads sit about 1 inch to 3/4 of an inch past the arrow rest. As long as the blades on the broad head clear the riser when at full draw, you are good to go.


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