# Wall tents, stove jacks and fire!



## KineKilla

Ok, so I picked up a wall tent last night and it has a 4" stove jack installed in the roof.

The stove I plan on getting (actually already bought) comes with a 5" flue pipe. My questions are: 
Can I safely trim the silicone hole material the extra inch? 
What about keeping the hole 4" and stretching it over the 5" pipe or cutting relief slits instead of trimming off the material? 
Is it going to be a hazard if the silicone ring touches the sides of the flue pipe or is there supposed to be a small air gap around the flue?

Thanks for the replies. (assuming there are any)


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## Mr Muleskinner

I would not anything unless you actually purchase a new 5" stove jack and have it installed properly. I was considering do the same thing as you but once I got the unit set up and blazing I decided against it and went with the 4" flue even though my stove had a 5" outlet. I bought a reducer and installed a damper and the thing works great.


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## Mtnbeer

You definitely don't want to trim the silicone. The extra material is intended to dissipate the heat before reaching the cotton canvas fibers. By trimming away the material, you greatly increase the chance of a fire (even if it is fire retardant treated). I also wouldn't try to stretch the hole to fit a five inch pipe. If the wind is blowing, it'll really move your pipe around and likely will pull apart the stovepipe sections. Try putting the hot stovepipe sections back together when the stove is blowing smoke all inside your tent. It's a nightmare waiting to happen!

I think your best bet is to take it to Kirkhams and have them replace it with a five or even a six inch gasket. It's a pretty reasonable cost and you'll be much better off in the long run.


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## KineKilla

Thanks for the replies.

I considered using a 4" pipe with a reducer but I have spent a week in a tent with an undersized flue and it was less than pleasant so I'm very reluctant to try that.










My thought was to cut little slits in the innermost ring of the black gasket to allow the 5" to slip through or remove the 1" of material entirely. Bad Idea? What about reducing the size of the flue down to 4" just below the opening rather than right at the stove? No different than reducing at the bottom?

This thing weighs a ton and is all folded up nicely in it's bag so I was hoping to avoid taking it somewhere for alteration. But if that's how it has to be...


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## Mtnbeer

I'll just say this, if you think camping with an undersized flue was bad, the other options you mention as fixes would make things worse than that. I really think you need to take it in and have Kirkhams sew a bigger gasket on. 

Besides, you should set the tent up before the season and make sure everything's good to go before hunting season starts anyways. No need to waste time during the season trying to get it all adjusted how you like it.

Another thing, don't forget to cure your stove and pipe by burning a nice hot fire if they are new (and not in the tent, unless you want it to stink).


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## KineKilla

10-4 on the curing of the new stove and pipe.

I'll call kirkhams tomorrow.


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## skeet4l

KK, as far as the wind lifting your tent and stove pipe, go to your local harware store and pick up a vent collar and cut slits in the ID so it will fit just under the tent lifting it above the normal slope. It'll keep pressure on the pipe to stove connections so the wind can't lift it up, it'll also help water to drain out and around the flu area. skeet


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## KineKilla

skeet4l said:


> KK, as far as the wind lifting your tent and stove pipe, go to your local harware store and pick up a vent collar and cut slits in the ID so it will fit just under the tent lifting it above the normal slope. It'll keep pressure on the pipe to stove connections so the wind can't lift it up, it'll also help water to drain out and around the flu area. skeet


Not a bad idea. I was contemplating driving some self tappers into each piece to keep the whole assembly together.

Kirkhams wouldn't give me a price range, but they did say they would do the work. If I go that route (which I probably will) I will have them install a 6" jack so I have some flexibility when it comes to flue size.

I noticed also that the Four Dog Stove I ordered comes with the stove pipe, but it is designed to taper from 5" to 4" at the very top. I would guess that is so exhaust gases will steadily accelerate and exit the flue better. Not real sure how making it taper 2' earlier would affect performance or safety.

I'm going to wait until I get the stove, tent and everything all set up in the yard to make any changes to anything.


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## skeet4l

The taper is so that all the sections will fit into one for storage. Mine is set up so the small end is at the top which will let creasote run down the outside of the pipe where the sections meet but it isn't a big deal unless you burn alot of coal. I also use a reducer and a dampner close to the stove, it's all about heat so I wouldn't worry about being smaller at the top because it'll just help build more heat. I also use a tile prep fiber (3x4) board under my stove.


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## Mtnbeer

My cylinder stove pipe is designed to go from 5 inches at the stove to six inches at the end. I was always told to go smaller to bigger the further you get from the stove. One of the best things I got was a solid welded elbow for my stove, since I vent out the sidewall. No more smoke leaking out of the elbow while the fire is going. Once everything is set up, smoke usually draws out like a champ.

As for creosote, as long as you use dry wood and burn a good, hot fire every couple of days, creosote build-up shouldn't be too bad.


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## KineKilla

So, we finally found the time to set everything up in the back yard yesterday and burned the paint off the stove and piping. Definitely a good thing to do outside of the tent...burning paint stinks!

This morning I went out and cleaned the stove out and placed it into the tent. The stove fits very well and once the piping was all attached I'm no longer sure I will even need a bigger stove jack opening. These pics show the gap around the pipe as it is now. If anything the gap would only get bigger as we tighten that section of the tent (because the jack would move upwards and the pipe tapers).

So, is this gap between pipe and jack sufficient or do I need a bigger hole? It seems some people's pipes actually fit snugly into their stove jack holes...information is hard to come by on this subject.

Also, I was thinking of adding another 1.5-2' of pipe to make the stack taller and clear the peak better...thoughts? It is fairly tall as it is. I have a rain cap that sits on the end as well and plan on making a spark arrester, but that's another story.

What do you all think? How much gap does your jack allow, and how much if any is actually required?


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## Mtnbeer

Your gap clearances look good to me. Small gaps to minimize air/water movement around the pipe, but just loose enough to allow the fabric to move up and down the pipe to account for wind and tightening/loosening of the fabric (canvas will slightly shrink and loosen from moisture and temperature).

Glad you decided to set it all up and burn the paint off.:mrgreen: You'll be rocking it come hunting season. As for your pipe length, I don't see a big problem with what you have. Add a rain cap and a spark arrester and you'll basically be above your ridge anyways. One suggestion if you make your own spark arrester. Add a wind screen of solid sheet metal to one side of your arrester and face it into the prevailing wind direction. During windy days, the wind can sometimes prevent smoke from leaving the pipe (forcing it all into your tent. Trust me, I learned the hard way). The sheet metal acts as a wind break and makes it easier to draw out.


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## KineKilla

Thanks for the feedback and the heads up on the cap. I see a lot of these with no cap at all, but with my luck I'd return to camp to find my stove with an inch or more of water in it.

I was thinking one more test run with the stove inside the tent may settle it once and for all. If I am going to burn the thing down I'd much rather do it where I have a garden hose handy. Now, just have to find something to put the stove on and I refuse to pay $50 for a fireproof fabric mat. I was thinking a welding blanket or something.


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