# Calling on help for the first timer.



## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

Ok so the sun is shining cuz after months and months of buying reloading equipment I finally have all the supplies to make my first round. I NEED all the help I can get. The subject is a 25-06 and I want to load it up for my 12 year old son who drew his first tag. (the only tag drawn at all in this house). Here is what I have

 IMR 4350 powder
CCI #200 large rifle primers
Sierra GameKing 90gr. HP Boat Tail
brass from store bought ammo that is all cleaned and ready to go
I was really hoping to find some 100 gr. bullets for deer but all that I can find are some pretty premium choices such as Nosler and some berger etc but I cant justify the cost even if I had the $ for what they want. So from all of the experienced loaders/hunters will this combo see sufficient results? I welcome all input and appreciate your time. Thank you

Cheddar


----------



## sagebrush (Sep 8, 2007)

first off you don't want to be using those 90 grn hp on deer. get some 120 grn bullets nosler paritions are what I have. I'm also working up some loads with the imr 4350 powder so far for me, some where around 47grs. I'm using nosler's reloading manual I still have to go back to the range to find the best charge.
I would also watch the seating depth on your loads the factory recommended depth does not work in my rifle, I was getting blown primers in my rifle.


----------



## BPturkeys (Sep 13, 2007)

The 90gr Sierra BTHP is strictly a varmint bullet and should not be used for deer! If you are looking for less recoil for your son, reduce the velocity...recoil will come down... and sight the rifle in appropriately. But by all means use a good bullet designed for light to medium game. The bullet is probably the most important part of your load, don't scrimp here.


----------



## Loke (Sep 7, 2007)

The price of a premium bullet pales in comparison to the cost of the rest of your hunt. Buy the best hunting (not target) bullet you can find and practice with it. I would start by looking at the Barnes TSX of TTSX. I have had great results with them in my 270s. Another good one is the Hornady SST. Or the Nosler AccuBond. If your shots will be within 300 yards (and they should in my humble opinion), you do not need a super high BC bullet. The Hornady interlock is an old standby that has killed a gazillion animals since it was introduced. And it is inexpensive. Notice that I did not say cheap. And they have been one of the most accurate in my experience.


----------



## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

ok so the 90gr. is clearly out. I just thought it would work considering it was from their GameKing line. So I am quite confident that the shot will be under 200 yards and most likely closer to 100 yds. As far as bullet weight would 100 gr. be fine or should I just work with a 117 or 120 and keep it the same throughout the years

Cheddar


----------



## Nambaster (Nov 15, 2007)

Loke said:


> The price of a premium bullet pales in comparison to the cost of the rest of your hunt. Buy the best hunting (not target) bullet you can find and practice with it. I would start by looking at the Barnes TSX of TTSX. I have had great results with them in my 270s. Another good one is the Hornady SST. Or the Nosler AccuBond. If your shots will be within 300 yards (and they should in my humble opinion), you do not need a super high BC bullet. The Hornady interlock is an old standby that has killed a gazillion animals since it was introduced. And it is inexpensive. Notice that I did not say cheap. And they have been one of the most accurate in my experience.


+1 for the interlocks...I have shot both the SST's and the Interlocks and while I am satisfied with both of them, the SST's do blow up a little bit more than I would like. The interlocks seem to penetrate a little better while still providing a good amount of expansion especially with such a fast shooting round the interlocks would be very good to perforate both lungs with a pass through. My experience with the SST's has been deadly but unnecessary amounts of meat gets peppered with lead. The 25-06 is a fast shooting round and while fragmentation may permit you to harvest your game with devastation with the SST's the interlock expands and holds its form better.


----------



## Cooky (Apr 25, 2011)

I've shot several deer with 100gr Hornady Interlocks out of a 25-06. They will do the job...but I think something that holds together better might be a good idea at 25-06 velocities. A couple of them came apart when I hit shoulders, bloodshot the whole shoulder and there wasn't much penetration.


----------



## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

I only have experience with one premium bullet and I mean one single round. I am not a rifle hunter most of the time but last fall took a 5x5 elk with a friends 300RUM. 60 yd shot! Elk took about 6 steps and went down hard. Bullet seemed to retain pretty well (I didn't weigh it) and was hung up on the skin other side of the elk. I was impressed that it lost all of its energy in the elk from such a powerful weapon at a distance that close.


----------



## mtnrunner260 (Feb 15, 2010)

Does hornady do the same gr SST and GMX in 25 cal?
That would be an economical way to go


----------



## waspocrew (Nov 26, 2011)

The 110 Accubond, or 100 TTSX would be my vote. Both have shot very well in my 25-06.


----------



## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

so on another note, does anyone know the difference/value in the Lee pacesetter die set (red box) and the collet dies (yellow box)? I apologize in advance if this is an idiotic question but cut me some slack I am new to this

Cheddar


----------



## fishreaper (Jan 2, 2014)

Are the bergers really that expensive in your area? I've always found them to be among the cheapest, at least in 6mm. And while there is more than a shred of truth to the idea that bullets are typically (depending on how many bullets it takes to build a load and how much your son practices, which may very well topple that theory head over heels. I typically go through 100-200 rounds a year minimum, and my lamp hat only costs 15 bucks) the cheapest part of your hunt,a 25-06 is relatively proven deer round and deer aren't any tougher to kill than they were a century ago (I assume, ask Goob for details). I like the idea of an SST on the expensive end, or Sierra Prohunters or GameKings on the cheap end. However, let it be said that there is probably a good reason that prohunters and gamekings are typically the only bullets sierra makes for hunters. There usually isn't a huge need for premiums with deer.

Truth be told, being the hypocrite I am, I just bought a couple boxes of Nosler e-tips for my .243 for when I move up to Utah in a few months. Some may considered a 6mm marginal for deer and my problem is that I wont get the opportunity of 4-5 whitetails and 2 mulies a year. In Utah, I can't afford to burn a tag if I can't find my deer(notwithstanding, it's only happened once on account of marksman's error) and I don't want that moral dilemma. If I can get them to group well at around 3100-3200 fps, I bet they're flat-shooting and will penetrate/expand well within my capable range.


----------



## Frisco Pete (Sep 22, 2007)

The 110-grain AccuBond would be an excellent choice.
Not all guns shoot Barnes bullets well even though they are good.
Sierra 90-gr wouldn't be too good as they are too explosive despite their GameKing moniker.
Fishrmn used a 100-gr Nosler Ballistic Tip on one antelope hunt with his 25-06 and it was too explosive at 25-06 velocities leaving a gaping surface wound on a buck and requiring a second shot where one wouldn't have been necessary if he had stuck with his proven Partition bullet load. Both of us learned something that day.

IMO with the high velocity of the 25-06 and the uncertainty of at what range deer will be encountered, I think it is best to hunt with premium bullets rather than conventional cup-and-core bullets as they perform more consistently over a wider range of terminal velocities.


----------



## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

fishreaper said:


> Are the bergers really that expensive in your area? I've always found them to be among the cheapest, at least in 6mm. And while there is more than a shred of truth to the idea that bullets are typically (depending on how many bullets it takes to build a load and how much your son practices, which may very well topple that theory head over heels. I typically go through 100-200 rounds a year minimum, and my lamp hat only costs 15 bucks) the cheapest part of your hunt,a 25-06 is relatively proven deer round and deer aren't any tougher to kill than they were a century ago (I assume, ask Goob for details). I like the idea of an SST on the expensive end, or Sierra Prohunters or GameKings on the cheap end. However, let it be said that there is probably a good reason that prohunters and gamekings are typically the only bullets sierra makes for hunters. There usually isn't a huge need for premiums with deer.
> 
> Truth be told, being the hypocrite I am, I just bought a couple boxes of Nosler e-tips for my .243 for when I move up to Utah in a few months. Some may considered a 6mm marginal for deer and my problem is that I wont get the opportunity of 4-5 whitetails and 2 mulies a year. In Utah, I can't afford to burn a tag if I can't find my deer(notwithstanding, it's only happened once on account of marksman's error) and I don't want that moral dilemma. If I can get them to group well at around 3100-3200 fps, I bet they're flat-shooting and will penetrate/expand well within my capable range.


 I heard that. 

.


----------



## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

Ok so the other thing I forgot to mention is the rifle is a savage axis. Pretty much a low end rifle but it shoots factory ammo fairly consistantly and I am not an accomplished shooter in this relm. So I hope to improve teh groups with hand loads as well as my shooting skills. Any suggestions as to where to begin.


----------



## fishreaper (Jan 2, 2014)

One of two methods. Start with finding your best grouping charge, then work headspacing. Conversely, work your headspace with a minimum load first, then focus on your charges. The latter may save you a little powder. If I remember, that is the way Berger recommends their bullets done. If you want to really nit-pick groups, you could go as far as weighing your brass and sorting the same weight classes, but I don't see it to be practical outside of competition shooting. Be sure to trim your brass to the same length each time for the sake of minimizing variables. Otherwise, exactness of your powder charges is probably another key factor especially if you're determining a charge.


Side note on brass. Since you have a lot of old commercial brass, sort out the brands. Do not mix the brand of brass. I found out the hard way, and spent a lot of money trying to fix pressure problems before I realized what I did.


----------



## Mr.CheddarNut (Jan 16, 2013)

i appreciate everybody's input. The 90 gr. are going back. I am still a little ways out from completing my first round. I still have to set up all my stuff and find some sufficient bullets. 

Cheddar


----------

