# Lift Kit-Updated



## #1DEER 1-I (Sep 10, 2007)

Wondering- can you just buy a front end lift kit for a truck or do you have to buy the entire kit in order to get it? If you have any sites with a large selection (or any selection) of lift kits please post the link here. The reason I just want the front end lift kit is because the bed of the truck is already raised up in the air 4 inches more than the front because of overload springs, just looking to even it out, I don't like the downward slope look of it.


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## Nor-tah (Dec 16, 2007)

*Re: Lift Kit*

Deadicatedweim is your guy to talk to on this one. PM him and ask what he thinks. I know they make a lift like that called a leveling kit. Many trucks come like yours with the back end "oversprung" for towing. The trucks I have seen that are leveled out look awesome.


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## legacy (Sep 30, 2007)

*Re: Lift Kit*

I guess it depends on what kind of truck you have. If your front end is a solid axle with leaf springs, all you really need is different front leaf springs. If you have a chevy with IFS, that a different story. If you have a Ford Super Duty, I'm sure you can buy individual components for the front end. I think you could find front end components for most trucks without having to get shocks and blocks or springs for the rear. Try looking through this site...

http://www.4wheelparts.com/


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## izzydog (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: Lift Kit*

It all depends on how your suspension is set up. Coil springs, leaf springs, IFS junk or other. Any hoo, you can buy components for any of these to get your rig level and most of them are pretty simple fixes. If you have the money throw on some coil over shocks and never feel another bump again (almost). If 4 Wheel parts doesn't help call Jack-it in Salt Lake, they will tell you what is best for your ride and sell you just the parts you need. Both of these places have web sites.


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## #1DEER 1-I (Sep 10, 2007)

*Re: Lift Kit*

Think *this* level kit will even it out good, and work?


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## legacy (Sep 30, 2007)

*Re: Lift Kit*

I'm sure it works. Stickers always seen to do the trick.  I didn't read into but it looks like all it does is allow more adjustment in your torsion bars. I would look at the alignment specs for sure. It will also stiffen up the ride. Have you tried tightening up your torsion bars? You can usually get some height out of doing it, but again, it throws the front end geometry off and will stiffen up the ride. Not sure I'd trust their claims about stock ride, etc...but what the heck do I know? I'd say get it and let us know if it was worth the $$$.


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## #1DEER 1-I (Sep 10, 2007)

*Re: Lift Kit*

I another *lift kit*. This one is an actual 3" body lift kit. Would I be able to only lift the front with this kit and leave the back alone with its heavy duty springs? Also what is Gap Guard, all I know is it would add on another $88.

So which would you recommend the leveling kit or the body lift kit when I am only raising the front end.


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## legacy (Sep 30, 2007)

All a body lift does is lift the body off of the frame. The Gap Guard is a cover that covers up the ugly gap between the frame and body after you install the lift. A body lift can't accomplish what you are looking to do. Keep in mind that when a body lift is installed, the gas tank, drivetrane, engine and bumpers all stay in the same place. You would have to extend your gas tank filler neck, sometimes make modifications to shift linkanges etc, drop your radiator (which is attached to the body), and raise bumpers (if you want). I personally do not like body lifts, but It can't do what you are looking to do anyway. Really the only purpose of a body lift is to allow more clearance for larger tires. A body lift does not make any modification to the suspension.


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## izzydog (Jan 18, 2008)

Legcy is right, avoid the body lift like the plague, unless you like problems like he mentioned plus noise from the bushings, sagging when the 3 inch block wears out, mud and snow and salt in places that were never intended because of the gap and many more. The only benefit is they are cheap. Do it the right way so you don't have to do it twice is my opinion.


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## chet (Sep 7, 2007)

By tightening your torsion bars, you are incresing spring rate. Which n turns stiffens your ride. You can usually get two inches without buying that cam kit.

Also keep in mind, the steeper the control arm angle, the harsher the "bump" feel transfer to the people inside. Tightening the torsion bars increases the angle of the control arms, decreases + camber, and decreases toe (on models where the tie rod connects behind steering axis). So an alignment becomes necessary.

I find it hard to beleive that overloads have raised your rear anywhere near 4"s. Add a leafs will barely give you 2".

Crawl under your truck and tighten your bars up a little at a time. Do both sides equally and keep track of the number of turns so you can return it to original. JUST REMEMBER TO DO AN ALIGNMENT WHEN YOUR'E DONE DICKIN WITH IT. I just love seein trucks wondering all over the road with bumpsteer :evil:


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## #1DEER 1-I (Sep 10, 2007)

The truck has very heavy duty springs on back and the front is at 4" above the tire while the back is 8" above the tire. The truck also has one extra leaf spring (it used to have two but I removed one) I have raised the front end with a jack and two inches makes a big difference from where its at. I have messed with the bars and tightened them already before clear to the top then took it to get it realigned and in turn they untightened it. The truck was made for extra heavy hauling and was probably custom ordered with what it has. This is an S10 and it has a good ride but dose need the front end off the ground a little more. I will also be changing the tires because it has smaller tires in front than the back which is also contributing to the slant of the truck.


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## legacy (Sep 30, 2007)

Maybe the answer is to lower the rear?????


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