# New dog !!



## guner (Sep 25, 2007)

Well I finally have a new dog. Instead of pissing and moaning about not having one. Problem though :!: :!: Dog is a year and a half old ,pure and papered ,she looks excellent and when I put out some pheasant wings in bushes in back she slammed a point with style, the problem part is she was givin to me and the people who had her before had her in a kennel with very little/to no training so she is wild, doesnt even know sit. So my question is how should I go about training her ? same way as with a young pup ? or how do I need to modify training...... is it a lost cause with a dog that old ? Any info/help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Wally


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## Lawdog (Sep 19, 2007)

What breed of dog did you get.

I wouldn't worry about her being a year and a half old.

You said she slammed point so I assume it is some type of pointing dog. I would start some yard work/obedience on a check cord. Whoa and come/here but dont teach it to if it is a pointing breed. 
Get it to be a little obedient then put it on a few planted birds.


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## justuspr (Mar 3, 2009)

Did you happen to pick up Sami? 

I would start with the basic obedience and bonding, just like she was a new pup brought home. Keep it fun for her!


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## guner (Sep 25, 2007)

Sorry guys... she is a Britt

Ya Just I got Sami Friday night.
Were you the person who was going to swing by today tocheck her out ?

Last night after me and my kids brought her home, I saw some one with a thread on Utah Bird Dogs, and it sounded like they were going to pick her up. kinda felt bad cause I already got her.


But hey you guys say train her like any other new pup ? Not that I have really any experience, but do have a couple books.


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## justuspr (Mar 3, 2009)

Yep you beat me to her, good luck with her!


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## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

Yep, start from scratch. Assume she knows nothing. I'd forget all about the old wing and string. Just work her on real birds with a check cord at first like Lawdog suggested. The wilder the birds the better, IMO.


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## guner (Sep 25, 2007)

Thank you guys for suggestions...... I am trying them now.
but please any new suggestions/help is appreciated, so keep pouring in some advice


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## toomeymd (Sep 21, 2009)

I looked at her on KSL. She's a good looking girl! Good on you for taking a chance for her! I hope it all works out well!


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## TAK (Sep 9, 2007)

Sit is the last thing you want to train a pointing dog and the next is not to point bird parts... Real birds only....
There is a ton of info on the net to research on training... and at a over a year she is PRIME!


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## Texscala (Sep 8, 2007)

I would recommend getting her on lots of wild birds. We don't all have time or the dedication to do it but there are plenty of places to get dogs on wild birds in this state. My personal opinion is get them used to wild birds and polish little things with planted birds. I also use the check cord for polishing but found with my dog the more encounters she had with wild birds the more she whoaed herself. The check chord and planted birds were not used much in my training until the dog had been through her first year of wild birds.

You will need to get your dog to come when called so that you can let her run and find birds. To be a great asset to your team your pup needs to come when called so you are not chasing her all day and understand that when she hits bird scent she should point it. Everything else can be added on but these are the two things that a pointing dog really needs to have as a start (also being okay with gun fire).

After you get here you can start working on retrieving, backing, steadiness and all kinds of stuff. Figure out what you want out of the dog and train accordingly. Also be patient, it is not a race and there are lots of ways to get it done. Find someone you trust to help you, look at where their dogs are, and get some help.

I am still plenty new and have had lots of help both on forums and in person and I must admit I am pretty pleased at how my little French Britt has turned out. It takes a lot of time and effort but it sure is fun and rewarding when it works out.


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## vdogs (Sep 22, 2007)

Excellent post Tex! You're no longer new to birddogs!


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## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

I agree with everything you wrote, Texs, except for the check cord part. The main reason I'd keep a check cord on this dog right now is because it's a teenager, not a puppy. There hasn't been the bonding time between the dog and its handler. You did mention that the dog needs to come reliably and I agree 100%. I'd make sure that was happening before I ever removed the check cord from an unknown teen canine. Runaway dogs are not fun to deal with. The transition from check cord to e-collar only takes a few sessions for the dog to master. It's well worth the time spent.


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## TEX-O-BOB (Sep 12, 2007)

TAK said:


> Sit is the last thing you want to train a pointing dog and the next is not to point bird parts... Real birds only....
> There is a ton of info on the net to research on training... and at a over a year she is PRIME!


+1 You're not working with a dumb lab here, never teach a pointing dog to sit. Your dog at 18 months old is nothing short of fine moldable clay. She is ripe for the learning and dogs that old are mature enough to handle anything. Get on line or get with folks who have pointing dogs and learn how the right way.


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## Texscala (Sep 8, 2007)

BirdDogger said:


> I agree with everything you wrote, Texs, except for the check cord part. The main reason I'd keep a check cord on this dog right now is because it's a teenager, not a puppy. There hasn't been the bonding time between the dog and its handler. You did mention that the dog needs to come reliably and I agree 100%. I'd make sure that was happening before I ever removed the check cord from an unknown teen canine. Runaway dogs are not fun to deal with. The transition from check cord to e-collar only takes a few sessions for the dog to master. It's well worth the time spent.


Good point, I tried to have this taken care of before the dog was running big and still had to deal with a lost dog a few times. With the dog being 18 months or so a check cord and e-collar are probably a good way to get come down.


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## guner (Sep 25, 2007)

Thanks for even more information Tex, Tex and Bird... lol

So you guys think first thing I should try is with a check cord and teaching Woah/hold and then come correct ?

After I spend the time and get these down then do you think I should work on retrieve ? or just work with finding live birds ?


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## deadicatedweim (Dec 18, 2007)

What is the reasoning in not teaching the dog to sit? Or is it just way down on the list on things to teach the dog?


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## xxxxxxBirdDogger (Mar 7, 2008)

> So you guys think first thing I should try is with a check cord and teaching Woah/hold and then come correct ?
> After I spend the time and get these down then do you think I should work on retrieve ? or just work with finding live birds ?


No. Come is first. Your Brit will learn to hold point on birds when she realizes she can't catch them. That's why we're saying to get out and work on wild birds. Pen raised birds can often be caught by the dog. That can ruin a pointer. Don't bother with the other stuff until your dog is coming reliably every time when called and will hold point over birds. You really don't need to say a word on the wild birds. Instinct should take over.



> What is the reasoning in not teaching the dog to sit? Or is it just way down on the list on things to teach the dog?


Sometimes dogs that learn to sit will sit down when they're feeling pressured. It's a behavior you've rewarded in the past so they sometimes will sit or lie down instead of pointing the bird. You want to sit a Labrador for everything because it has to sit in a blind and watch birds flying and being shot. A pointing dog isn't doing its job by sitting.


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## cklspencer (Jun 25, 2009)

Im not a dog trainer by any means. But the first thing I taught my dog was to sit. The reason being was I wanted to teach him to come when I called. Was it the right thing to do for a GSP? I don't know. The next was come. I felt it was better to make him sit walk away then tell him to come. It aslo made it easier to teach him heel later on. The next ones were just for fun and I figured if I was going to have my dog inside and poeple would be coming over so next was lie down. Then while working on pointing and other things the off time in the house was spent teaching him shack, play dead, and roll over. When kids come over they like playing with dogs and kids like making dogs do tricks. Would I do it again? You bet. Is my dog the best GSP out there No. Do I care? no. Getting out and hunting birds is fun time for the dog. 
Now I will say that if I did it again I would work harder on live birds and work on tracking a bit more. I think the biggest mistake I made with my GSP is not hunting him enough. I let him sit for almost two years while I had a Wiem that had it all bilt in naturaly. Then when I lost her It was almost like starting over. SO my words of wisdom would be hunt your dog as much as you can.


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## Texscala (Sep 8, 2007)

Another word of advice is to get the dog out on birds right after the season ends. There are two big advantages to this.

# 1 you will not be tempted to shoot bumped birds. Take your time when the dog is on point, take a picture, talk calmly and nicely. Make the dogs favorite thing in the world to be pointing birds.

# 2 You will know where to look next season for birds.


I agree with BD, teach come first, get it down solid, you may need to look into an E collar (I would). Sit is up to you, I teach it but also understand why others do not.


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## TEX-O-BOB (Sep 12, 2007)

> After I spend the time and get these down then do you think I should work on retrieve ? or just work with finding live birds ?


If you're going to run any AKC or AF trials you won't need to worry about retrieving. :? But if you want a well rounded gundog you should defiantly work on retrieving. To me, a dog that won't retrieve is only half a dog.


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## TAK (Sep 9, 2007)

Sit is easy to teach and simple for the dog to do... I don't teach it ever but I know that there are those that do. My opinion is if you do it do it last or at least after you have your dog really steady to at least flush. 
Dogs are smart an if you have to add any type of presure to get the dog steady it MAY revert back to sitting because it knows that really well and dad is happy when it does it.

But you can teach it right out of the gate and still get to a polished dog, but dog training is trying not to teach habits that you have to go back and fix later! Whats the ped on the dog? and Picture!


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## vdogs (Sep 22, 2007)

TEX-O-BOB said:


> To me, a dog that won't retrieve is only half a dog.


I'll take this a step further..a dog that won't retrieve, is of little use to a "Hunter".


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## guner (Sep 25, 2007)

Hey guys.... I wanted to take a minute and thank you all sicerely for all the info you have :wink: and will provide. I have been a member since the old fish and game site, but besides a few little blips now and again I mostly stay out of the discussions. So it is GREATLY appreciated that when I have a problem I can fall back on the high caliber(for the most part) of members we have here. It makes me even more certain that Hunters/Fisherman are just a great group of guys in general...... anyway again THANKS for the help with info for me with my dog.

Thanks
Wally


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## guner (Sep 25, 2007)

Hey people..... further question (I know, I know  )

Anyway when you guys say to get the pup out on live birds
Now in a perfect world I know that wild or pen raised phez are best, however since I am not made of money, how big of a difference is there if I use Pigeons ?


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## TAK (Sep 9, 2007)

guner said:


> Hey people..... further question (I know, I know  )
> 
> Anyway when you guys say to get the pup out on live birds
> Now in a perfect world I know that wild or pen raised phez are best, however since I am not made of money, how big of a difference is there if I use Pigeons ?


They work just fine. The only real problem with the birds is that you have to make an unatural areana to set them, Launcher, Carded, locking the wings...etc....
I have started many of dogs out with them, cheap and easy to get your hands on. After you get the dog so far in trianing you MUST shoot a few. For some odd reason dogs get use to not having them shot and loose some interest in them. Shoot one and see the level peak again.
I talk as if you want to finish a dog out also. If it is a hunting dog and nothing more than that, shoot all of them! But I do like to hunt with a dog that is at least steady to the shot.
There is so many training ways out there and all get you a very nice dog in the end.


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