# I'm looking to start waterfoul hunting, but I don't know where to start...



## rdiddy801 (Aug 13, 2013)

I grew up in Idaho and did a little duck hunting when I was a young teenager. No decoys or anything, I just walked along canal banks out in the countryside (and had very little success).

Now, many years later and living in suburban Salt Lake County, I've started to get an itch for it. I'm looking to get prepared for the fall 2015 waterfowl season. I'm mostly interested in hunting geese. Unfortunately, I know nothing and don't really have any friends that do it to get guidance from. Could one of you be so kind as to direct me to some sources on how to get started? Specifically the following:

1. What should I be looking for in a shotgun? Being a beginner I'm hoping to spend under $400. Do I need something that holds a 3 1/2 inch shell if I'm going after geese? 
2. How important are decoys? It seems to me really important for geese--less for duck.
3. What is the best way to find good areas to hunt? (I know nobody wants to give up their hot spots, but any help is still much appreciated!) For fishing you can go to the state website and see fishing reports, but I assume there's nothing like that for waterfoul...

Thanks in advance!


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## dkhntrdstn (Sep 7, 2007)

rdiddy801 said:


> 1. What should I be looking for in a shotgun? Being a beginner I'm hoping to spend under $400. Do I need something that holds a 3 1/2 inch shell if I'm going after geese? Look at the Remington 870 shot gun or the tri star for around that price. For me I like the 3 1/2 but no if you get the geese in close you will be ok with 3inch.
> 2. How important are decoys? It seems to me really important for geese--less for duck. For geese you will want decoys and then you will want to be on the x.
> 3. What is the best way to find good areas to hunt? (I know nobody wants to give up their hot spots, but any help is still much appreciated!) For fishing you can go to the state website and see fishing reports, but I assume there's nothing like that for waterfoul... Your going have to spend hours behind the wheele scouting for fields that the geese use and hope no clubs or any body has the right to hunt it already.
> thanks in advance!


Hunting geese here in Utah is not easy.If you dont have land to hunt for geese here in Utah good luck getting on any and to hunt them on are WMA that they are even tougher to hunt.Good luck this season.


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## JuniorPre 360 (Feb 22, 2012)

If you're into geese, you'll have to really chase them and probably get some permission on some private land. Most of them that I've seen stick to the private or leased fields. If you get permission, you'll need A LOT of decoys.

1. If you don't want to break the bank for a shotgun, look at a Remington 870 express, a Banelli Nova, or a Mossberg 835. They are all great guns. 

2. You need decoys. If you sit out on the dikes and just pass shoot everything, it kind of ruins the area. Jump shooting constantly isn't hunting. Learn to set up a spread, call them in, and enjoy the sport like it was meant to be enjoyed. I usually take around 100 duck decoys out to public land (big water) to even get a good ethical shot. You'll take less if you get some mud and miles on your boots and find that hidden water hole. Typically, most hunters are looking for a place to park, walk just a little, and they expect to kill a lot. You have to find a place away from all of the madness. 

3. Utah has a lot of public land to hunt. Go to the dwr's website and start looking for maps. There are a lot of WMA's you can start scouting. And when I say scout, I mean get in your truck, get some binoculars, and start looking for ducks. You'll have better luck finding out for yourself. Each WMA has their own rules and regulations. Learn them.


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## rjefre (Sep 8, 2007)

You don't need too much to get started. A dozen decoys, some waders (this may seem obvious, but there are folks who don't have them), and a willingness to get out at a WMA and try. Of coarse, as you get the bug, you will find out that waterfowling is extremely expensive and addictive...you might be better off financially if you got addicted to crack instead.
R


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## Jedidiah (Oct 10, 2014)

I feel the need to mention this every time anyone starts this subject: don't get a shotgun at Wal-Mart. If you absolutely cannot pass up the deals at Wally World, check carefully for flaws that passed through QA because the shotguns at Wal-Mart are not QA'd very well. I handled an 870 there that had sharp burrs in the action that I'm positive would have eventually caused damaged shells on loading or jamming on ejection. I got my Mossberg 500 at Scheels for only 20 bucks more than Wal-Mart and it had the ported barrel for recoil and a nicer stock along with lacking the burrs in the action. Cabela's prices on low range hunting shotguns are good also.

Also, don't forget your duck stamp and shotgun plug, fishcops won't tear up the ticket they write you just because you didn't know.


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## adventuringadam (Jan 3, 2015)

Keep in mind that decoy movement is just as critical as the decoys themselves. Took me a year to learn the hard way watching my "beautiful" spread getting ignored. Throw a few ripples in there and everything changes. Also seems like the later into the season, smaller waters and lower deek numbers can have great success. Birds get a little wary of skybusters sitting on 6 dozen frozen still deeks lol


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## Fowlmouth (Oct 4, 2008)

rdiddy801 said:


> Could one of you be so kind as to direct me to some sources on how to get started? Specifically the following:
> 
> 1. What should I be looking for in a shotgun? Being a beginner I'm hoping to spend under $400. Do I need something that holds a 3 1/2 inch shell if I'm going after geese?No you DO NOT need 3.5" Look at the Winchester SXP in 12 or 20 gauge
> 2. How important are decoys? It seems to me really important for geese--less for duck. Depends if you are standing on idiot dike pass shooting or if you are setting up on a pothole somewhere.
> ...


________________


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## hossblur (Jun 15, 2011)

Despite growing up 2 miles from GSL, my dad didn't waterfowl hunt(until in his 50's) so at 16 I started. I got up early on the opener, hit the WMA close to home with my 870 magnum(3"), rubber hip waders, and bug spray. Didn't kill crap. Did it again the next morning, didn't kill crap, but after the morning rush, I started walking, covered a bunch of the WMA. Next weekend did the same, walked more. As I time went on I did that same routine over and over, year after year. I have walked from the causeway to Harold Crane now. Doing so I found the "secret spots" that everyone knew about, but I also would watch birds day after day. You can find out a lot by just watching.

You will find out about how many decoys you need, based on what water your hunting, when in the season etc.

I went from that 870 to a benelli nova because I "needed" a 3 1/2 12 ga. From that I "needed" a 3 1/2 semi auto, so a 11-87 super mag came and quickly went. I went with a couple more semi autos, and even a O/U. I am back to that 870. In short, I don't believe you need a 3 1/2 12 ga., my 9 year old son killed his swan with a 22 inch barreled mossberg bantam in 20. ga., and it was dead when it hit the ground. I dont even believe you need shells other than cheap winchesters or Estates, both of which kill ducks.

Like all the other hunts, the more time you spent the more your successful. We are blessed here to have all the waterfowl areas we do, and I for one enjoy hanging out "in the swamp". That would be my advice.


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## rdiddy801 (Aug 13, 2013)

Thanks for all the responses! It seems I'm going to have to get skunked a couple times this fall. I fish a lot, so I'm patient - ha ha.

So I'm confused by a couple comments on needing to hunt geese on private fields. Do they not fly into the WMAs? How come ducks fly into them but geese don't?

Also, how early is too early to start scouting waterfowl? I assume any patterns you notice in the late summer will change by opening day in October...


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## JuniorPre 360 (Feb 22, 2012)

Ducks in general prefer water more than fields. Wma's are mostly water. You could get lucky and kill a goose, but I would never hunt a wma specifically for geese. Most of the geese are smart and stick to places like private fields, golf courses, and Lagoon. If you find that farmer that will let you hunt a field, get a ton of decoys and you'll have a good goose hunt. 

As for scouting, you could at least start driving around just to get to know the areas you'll be hunting. There will be ducks there up until World War 3 begins opening morning. For now, scout the areas for potential spots. Then during the season, go back to those spots with some binoculars and see where the ducks are going. 

One more piece of advice... When you see a Utah opening morning, keep in mind all of the Duck Ginasties go and literally shoot EVERYTHING! This usually dies down in a month or so. Then you can enjoy a normal hunt for the most part.


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## dkhntrdstn (Sep 7, 2007)

rdiddy801 said:


> Thanks for all the responses! It seems I'm going to have to get skunked a couple times this fall. I fish a lot, so I'm patient - ha ha.
> 
> So I'm confused by a couple comments on needing to hunt geese on private fields. Do they not fly into the WMAs? How come ducks fly into them but geese don't? Geese do fly in to them. But with so much shooting going on they try to stay away from them until after shooting hours. the other problem is to many people SKY BUST that another reason it hard to hunt geese on them.
> 
> Also, how early is too early to start scouting waterfoul? I assume any patterns you notice in the late summer will change by opening day in October...


it never to early to scout. fins spots ducks are hanging out in and then just keep a eye on those spots.


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## Jedidiah (Oct 10, 2014)

Oh hey, another shortcut I took that maybe you shouldn't, that's patterning with your shells. Take some cardboard out to BLM land, put three shells into cardboard at 15, 30 and 45 yards each. I took a couple boxes out and that's when I decided to use the rest of my Winchester Super X's for clay or something else. My gun does better with Kent, Federal or RIO. It's a cheap Mossberg 500 though. The point for me is to have a consistent cone and to be able to visualize that cone as it extends from my barrel.


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## MuscleWhitefish (Jan 13, 2015)

rdiddy801 said:


> I grew up in Idaho and did a little duck hunting when I was a young teenager. No decoys or anything, I just walked along canal banks out in the countryside (and had very little success).
> 
> Now, many years later and living in suburban Salt Lake County, I've started to get an itch for it. I'm looking to get prepared for the fall 2015 waterfoul season. I'm mostly interested in hunting geese. Unfortunately, I know nothing and don't really have any friends that do it to get guidance from. Could one of you be so kind as to direct me to some sources on how to get started? Specifically the following:
> 
> ...


I never use 3 1/2 inchers. They are no better than a 3 incher.

Hell, a 2 3/4 can kill geese. Get your lead down and hit them in the head and you can use a 410


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## JuniorPre 360 (Feb 22, 2012)

I normally use 3.5 inchers on swan. I don't want to wound or chase one. So I take a good low shot with a high power shell to make sure they die in the decoys.


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## rjefre (Sep 8, 2007)

I agree. In past years, I shot a 12 gauge at geese, and for a while, I felt I needed a 3 1/2 shell for geese. After much experimenting, it turns out that I was wrong, and if you shoot at geese within range, a 2 3/4" shell is just fine and a 3" shell is probably overkill. I will never spend money on a 3 1/2" shell again. 
P.S. I only hunt on our public lands.
R


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## JerryH (Jun 17, 2014)

rjefre said:


> I agree. In past years, I shot a 12 gauge at geese, and for a while, I felt I needed a 3 1/2 shell for geese. After much experimenting, it turns out that I was wrong, and if you shoot at geese within range, a 2 3/4" shell is just fine and a 3" shell is probably overkill. I will never spend money on a 3 1/2" shell again.
> P.S. I only hunt on our public lands.
> R


 I also thought the 3 1/2'' shell was the way to go for geese. But over the years I have come to the realization the its not needed. And I'm tired 
of the recoil. So I cut all my 3 1/2" empty hulls down for reloading.


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## shaner (Nov 30, 2007)

@Rdiddy- If you want to be successful do what R,JerryH, and Fowlmouth tell you what to do.
P.S. It is 'waterfowl', not 'waterfoul'.

Good luck!


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## silverkitten73 (Sep 20, 2007)

Oh my gosh - is JerryH who I think it is? Cause the Jerry I know is a handy son of a gun and that cutting jig looks like his handy work


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## JerryH (Jun 17, 2014)

Big B 

Its not OSHA approved but it will zip through a hull like butter. I'm sure it would do the same to a finger. That's why their not on the market. Beats paying $20 for BPI's model?


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## shaner (Nov 30, 2007)

@Jerry- Does that tool also do double duty as a high tech duck skinner?


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## rjefre (Sep 8, 2007)

I kind liked the "foul" spelling. Sometimes that accurately describes the situation! 
R


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## dkhntrdstn (Sep 7, 2007)

you will learn as you doring the season as well.


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