# building loads for accuracy



## hyperduc (Sep 18, 2009)

I've done my fair share of reloading, but in building for accuracy I'm having a hard time believing that the way I'm going about it is the most efficient. 

After prepping brass and selecting a bullet for the job I start with various powder charges and look for the best grouping of those. After I have determined the best powder load I then begin with cartridge overall length. 

Is this the best way to go about it or is there an easier way?


----------



## mikevanwilder (Nov 11, 2008)

In my experiences that is as good away as any. Thats the fun with reloading for accuracy everything can change the outcome. But when you find the right combo its a awesome feeling knowing you created it.


----------



## Al Hansen (Sep 7, 2007)

I prep the cases. Then I "old school" smoke a bullet and seat it in the chamber so it is barely touching the lands. Then work up the loads in .25 grn. increments finding the most accurate powder charge. Sellecting a powder can get real expensive so I ask the guys I know what powders they use. If I don't know anyone then I'll get to a range a watch the guys that know what they are doing and start asking questions. So what ya shooting ???


----------



## hyperduc (Sep 18, 2009)

Al Hansen said:


> So what ya shooting ???


I just finished a new build, it's a .300-221 on Surgeon action. My choice of powders is pretty limited as I'm required to use a magnum pistol powder. I'm going to start by working up some sub sonic loads with a 220 grn scenar and then I plan on working out a few supersonic loads using a 135 grn a-max.


----------



## BPturkeys (Sep 13, 2007)

First choose a bullet weight and brand, then determine best powder by: 1) studying books, loading tables, loading manuals and articles about "favorite loads. 2) actually loading test loads with two or three of your above selected powders (use the same charge for each type of powder) and select the powder that performed best. 3) tweek your powder charge to best accuracy. Now, go back and test a few different brands of the same weight bullets, leaving the powder charge the same, choose the best performer. OK, at this point probably 98% of your accuracy work is done. From here you start the little things...the things that really make your load perfect...1) work your brass so that they are as close to identical as possible...same volume, same over all length and neck length, same weight (using the same brand case will help make this job easier), once you have a supply of nearly identical brass, then move on to things like best primer and primer seating pressure(don't overlook the importances of primmer seating pressure), seating depth of bullet, neck length and neck wall thickness. Weigh all the bullets in a batch and match as closely as possible by weight and discard bullets that don't fit within a narrow range (you can shoot them up as plinkers) Keep in mind that after you have tested and determined the best power/bullet/charge/primer/case...etc, the thing that will make for winning accuracy is CONSISTENCY! Make all your loads exactly the same. In a perfect vacuum only two identical loads in every way will put the bullet in the same hole!


----------



## hyperduc (Sep 18, 2009)

Thanks BP, 

So if I'm following you correctly: working out the powder first is the best way to go about it?

I was really hoping that there was some magic trick that could have made this a lot faster. 

I know the required overall length of my cartridge to place the bullet in the lands, but I'm not sure where the best place to start looking for the best length is. Any suggestions?


----------



## Loke (Sep 7, 2007)

.015 inches from the lands. After you get your powder charge, then tweek the length to see if it gets any better. Don't get impatient and change more than 1 thing at a time. If you do you will never know which made what difference.


The most important question is what level of accuracy do you expect and/or require? That will determine how particular you need to be.


----------



## chet (Sep 7, 2007)

use H110 (or ww296) for the lighter bullets
and
H4227 for the heavier bullets

I'm assuming this is an AR?
1in8 twist?


----------



## chet (Sep 7, 2007)

DUH!!! "surgeon action"  

read chet, read!

sorry


----------



## Loke (Sep 7, 2007)

Just out of curiosity, what is your primary use for this rifle?


----------



## hyperduc (Sep 18, 2009)

Loke said:


> Just out of curiosity, what is your primary use for this rifle?


Uh....killin stuff quietly. :lol:

It's a 16" barrel with an AAC suppressor, its built to take varmints of all sorts without bringing a lot of attention to myself or my location



Loke said:


> .015 inches from the lands. After you get your powder charge, then tweek the length to see if it gets any better. Don't get impatient and change more than 1 thing at a time. If you do you will never know which made what difference.
> 
> The most important question is what level of accuracy do you expect and/or require? That will determine how particular you need to be.


I expect 1/2 min. or better out to 300 yards. I've built loads for other guns that will do this, so anything less would really be a disappointment. Load development has always seemed to be on of those things that just takes way to long to get dialed in, I was hoping that there would be an easier way.



chet said:


> use H110 (or ww296) for the lighter bullets
> and
> H4227 for the heavier bullets
> 
> ...


1 in 8 twist, 5R Mike Rock barrel. All the accurate load data i've seen so far is suggesting H110 and V110, I got a pound of each to test with.


----------



## longbow (Mar 31, 2009)

Try this method. http://optimalchargeweight.embarqspace. ... 4529817134
It's worked really well for me. You can find good loads with a minimum of wasted bullets.


----------



## hyperduc (Sep 18, 2009)

I put a couple rounds put together this morning and went out behind the house and let a few few fly.

After sighting and fouling the barrel I placed three - three shot groups, starting at the maximum (just over 1000 fps) and working my way down to just under subsonic. Each of those groups gave me at least .75moa @ 100, but the lightest charge was by far the best with a group of about 3/8", two of the shots were overlapped with a flier that brought the group out from about .2".

I'm not even going to bother testing with the other powder, I already use it for my hand gun reloads so it won't be going to waste. Right now I'm sitting .020 off the lands, I'm going to play with OAL and see if I can get a few tighter without much more work. 

The best part of all: The action is not bedded and is sitting in a cheap take off XCR synthetic stock until my McMillan is ready. 

Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## Loke (Sep 7, 2007)

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but you're probably wasting your time and money working up a load in the temporary stock. The stock and bedding will affect your barrel harmonics, and that affects your accuracy. On the positive side, you will at least know the ballistic performance of the loads you are testing.


----------



## hyperduc (Sep 18, 2009)

Loke said:


> I don't mean to rain on your parade, but you're probably wasting your time and money working up a load in the temporary stock.


Yeah I did know they would shift with the new stock, but I was REALLY bored and I needed to chrono a few loads anyway. I will wait for the new stock before I spend too much time playing with it.


----------

