# sighting in question



## Bhilly81 (Oct 18, 2009)

i am going to spend some time working with my scopes on the 243 as well as the new 17 i just picked up so my question is where would you set the scopes at on each of those to start off?

heres the low down on the guns and scopes 

savage 17 hmr with a 3-9 bushnell scope i was thinking of starting that off around 50 yards 

and the other is a howa model 1500 with a nikon buckmaster 4.5x14 (if i remember right) i was thinking of stating that on at 100 yards 

i am just looking for thoughts and opinions on this matter as i have not adjusted scopes for a very long time so i am almost starting over on these 

thanks alot for the help and opinions


----------



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

I shoot a 95 grain 243 bullet, which i wanted to have zeroed at 200 yards. To do so, the ballistics are such that the 100 yard shot needs to be 1.3 inches high. So, I set it at 1.3" exactly at 100 yards. 
I have not been through the 17hmr too closely, but I wanted my zero to be at 100, so I set it at 100, the trajectory is quite flat and my scope is a ballistic adjustable, so I just check it at 50 and it was on.
Here are my two favorite sites on this topic to best determine where to zero based on your size of bullet, etc.
http://www.chuckhawks.com/rifle_trajectory_table.htm
http://huntingnut.com/index.php?name=PointBlankOnline


----------



## Bo0YaA (Sep 29, 2008)

I say set it to where you have the least amount of drop at longer range you will be shooting and the least amount of rise at a closer range you will be shooting. For Instance, I have my 300 win mag set to 0 at 250 yards which means at 125 yards I'm 2.4 inches high and at 300 yards I'm 2.6 inches low. These are the max highs and lows in the distances I consider 90% of my shots will be made in. This works for me because I carry a range finder with me and just know that anything 300 yards and under I hold right on it and pull the trigger.


----------



## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

To start off, if you can remove your bolt, set your gun in a rest that completely immobilizes it. Set up a target at 25 yards, adjust the rifle so you can see the target through the bore. Now without moving the rifle, adjust the crosshairs over onto the target center. Now move the target out to 50 yards and test fire a round. If done without moving the firearm, you wont believe how close to center your first round will be. Much more accurate than a boresite.

Anywho to start off I fire a round or so close, 25-50 yards depending on the gun. From there if its grouping well I move out to 100 yards.

Note, if you find yourself having to move your crosshairs more than 8-10 clicks to get on dialed in, you might want to think about moving the mount.


-DallanC


----------



## Gee LeDouche (Sep 21, 2007)

+1 dallan..


----------



## gwailow (Jan 20, 2008)

DallanC said:


> To start off, if you can remove your bolt, set your gun in a rest that completely immobilizes it. Set up a target at 25 yards, adjust the rifle so you can see the target through the bore. Now without moving the rifle, adjust the crosshairs over onto the target center. Now move the target out to 50 yards and test fire a round. If done without moving the firearm, you wont believe how close to center your first round will be. Much more accurate than a boresite.
> 
> Anywho to start off I fire a round or so close, 25-50 yards depending on the gun. From there if its grouping well I move out to 100 yards.
> 
> ...


Exactly! Shoot a few rounds at close distances (I prefer 50 yards) to get your left--right squared away, then move it to 100 and get your up and down.


----------



## BPturkeys (Sep 13, 2007)

Simply get on your computer and read up about how to sight in your rifle at "point blank range". Now. if you are shooting at a know distance all the time....i.e. target shooting...you can sight in for that exact distance. But for general hunting, the "point blank" method is the best option. There are tables and charts available that give you your "dead on" distance based upon ballistic information you input...caliber, velocity , etc.


----------



## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

BPturkeys said:


> Simply get on your computer and read up about how to sight in your rifle at "point blank range". Now. if you are shooting at a know distance all the time....i.e. target shooting...you can sight in for that exact distance. But for general hunting, the "point blank" method is the best option. There are tables and charts available that give you your "dead on" distance based upon ballistic information you input...caliber, velocity , etc.


ORLY? You mean there is something to help you figure that out? Its prolly named something obvious too like maybe PointBlank Ballistics Software. What would really crazy is if it were free!

This is an interesting site: www.HuntingNut.com

Kindof odd how I just happened to know all of that :O•-:

-DallanC


----------



## BPturkeys (Sep 13, 2007)

DallanC said:


> BPturkeys said:
> 
> 
> > Simply get on your computer and read up about how to sight in your rifle at "point blank range". Now. if you are shooting at a know distance all the time....i.e. target shooting...you can sight in for that exact distance. But for general hunting, the "point blank" method is the best option. There are tables and charts available that give you your "dead on" distance based upon ballistic information you input...caliber, velocity , etc.
> ...


Wow, that's a nice little web sight you got there. I think I'll register up and get postin. BUT...where is the turkey hunting or at least upland game section??? and oh yeah...that software is probably a lot better than that old chart from a well worn copy of National Rifleman magazine I been using all these years.


----------



## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

BPturkeys said:


> Wow, that's a nice little web sight you got there. I think I'll register up and get postin. BUT...where is the turkey hunting or at least upland game section??? and oh yeah...that software is probably a lot better than that old chart from a well worn copy of National Rifleman magazine I been using all these years.


Thanks, the website has been in existance roughly for 11 years, give or take. Primarily shooting and reloading folk hang out there from all over the world. A bit more casual than say handloadersnest or accuratereloading, great folk.

As for turkeys, I've created and combined that forum back into small game several times. People hollar for a forum... then they never use it... so after a while I combine it back into other forums, then people want it back. Heheh it never ends.

I started up a fishing website, FishStrawberry.com ... it died because no-one wants to share their secrets. As a group they are about the tightest lipped sportsmen around.

-DallanC


----------



## Bhilly81 (Oct 18, 2009)

thanks for all the advice guys i am getting onto it tomarow its going to be great fun


----------



## Bax* (Dec 14, 2008)

There is some great advice here on different preferences for sighting in a rifle. But just because one person does it that way, you dont have to as well.

I would suggest sighting in your rifle for what you plan on doing with it. Why sight in a rifle for a 300 yard zero if you only plan on taking 150 yard shots? Every shooters tolerances are different and I would suggest sighting in your rifles for the kind of shooting you do. Once you do that, learn where your bullets hit relative to that sight in. For example: I sighted my .17 HMR in at 100 yards and learned exactly where to aim at 25, 50, 75, and 100 yards. But just because that is how I shoot doesnt mean that is how you should shoot.

Another option is target turrets on your scope. I have turrets on a couple rifles and that really helps take the guess work out of where I am shooting.


----------



## James (Oct 7, 2007)

Depends some on what you are going to be doing with the rifles. If its big game for the 243 and varmints for the .17, I would put the 243 1.5 inches high at 100 yards and the .17 right on at 100 yards. 

For most big game calibers the bullet crosses the sight path at about 60 feet (20 yards) and drops back down to line of sight at about 100 yards. ( not on the .17) My point is that a good spot for the first shot or two is 60 feet. You can get the windage on and the elevation close, so when you move the target out to 100 yards, you will at least be on the paper. If you are just fine tuning these scopes, you can put the target at 100 yards to begin with. 

I too use the trick DallanC gave you, looking down the bore. It will get you close if its a new install. 

In spite of all the math, balistic charts and computer gab etc. nothing tells the tale like trying to hit the target. I hate it when someone shows me a good group but its to the right 2 inches and low. Argggggh!!! The name of the game is to hit the target.


----------



## Bax* (Dec 14, 2008)

James said:


> In spite of all the math, balistic charts and computer gab etc. nothing tells the tale like trying to hit the target. I hate it when someone shows me a good group but its to the right 2 inches and low. Argggggh!!! The name of the game is to hit the target.


Is this one ok for my .308 James? :mrgreen:


----------



## James (Oct 7, 2007)

Nice!


----------



## longbow (Mar 31, 2009)

Wow Bax*!! Nice shooting.


----------

