# Quartering a Field with a Retriever - HELP!



## Sevencanyons (Jul 1, 2020)

I have a retriever who is about 10 months old. He has a great prey drive does a good job quartering a field. However, he just getsexcited and goes too far out ahead of me to where I’m worried that in a live situation, he’s going to flush birds out of gun range.

Does anyone have tips for how to keep a retriever within gun range while working a field? I call him back to me when he gets too far but I don’t necessarily want him to come all the way back to me - just work closer.
I’ve thought of using a long lead during quartering training but other than that I’m stumped…

Any advice?


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## twinkielk15 (Jan 17, 2011)

You're spot on. You'll either need to use a check cord or an e-collar (not without proper conditioning) to teach him proper range. I don't know any other way. I suppose there's a chance that with enough experience he might figure out that he only gets to retrieve birds that he flushes within range, but that could take a long time, if it ever happens at all.


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## johnnycake (Jul 19, 2011)

twinkielk15 said:


> You're spot on. You'll either need to use a check cord or an e-collar (not without proper conditioning) to teach him proper range. I don't know any other way. I suppose there's a chance that with enough experience he might figure out that he only gets to retrieve birds that he flushes within range, but that could take a long time, if it ever happens at all.


Agreed. 

If his recall is 100% (and I mean 100% of the time he immediately comes in to you, no matter where you are), and you don't want to e-collar condition/use an e-collar or a check cord for some reason, the only other approach I've seen work for some dogs is to have them out in front working the field and then as they hit your imaginary "that's far enough line" you call them back. Give them some water, or a scratch on the ears and send them back out. But you have to make that line be very consistent, and even then it isn't easy for the dog to put the pieces together that you don't want them farther away than that. Check cord/e-collar conditioning are much more consistent/effective. Ranging out is a privilege for the dog, and they only get to go as far as you trust them to do whatever job they are supposed to do (point, flush, whatever) when they do that job correctly and consistently.


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## taxidermist (Sep 11, 2007)

I had to deal with the issue of a young Lab chasing after the flush. I would chase the dog down, catch him and scold him. He got the idea of what was wanted from him very quickly. He was one of the smartest dogs I've had and just "got it" without to much reinforcement. Time in the field is key IMO. Not just running the field, but having live birds. 

The worst thing one can do to a dog is to scold them for "running" after coming back to you. They get the impression they are being scolded for coming back, and it can confuse them with the basics you've placed into them from the obedience training regime. 

After a few years in the field with your retriever, the both of you will become a well oiled hunting machine other hunters will be wanting to have.


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## Deacon92 (Jun 6, 2017)

Like Johnnycake said with the imaginary line thing and distance, I have found success with a single whistle sit for directionals, with the basics of a blind retrieve (I'm sure there is a fancy name for this type of scenario, but i cannot remember the name of it. 

So dogs getting too far, single whistle. They stop....Then reinforce a direction left or right (not out or further/back) and make them hunt that again till you catch up. I have also found luck with when a bird flushes single whistle sitting as well to ensure the dog doesn't chase....especially hens....

This behavior would need to be reinforced with the basic retrieve....Single whistle sit, then throw the bumper and then release on command.....then add gunfire with the retrieving the bumper.....then it translates to when your hunting, bird flushes, single whistle sit, shoot....release the dog. 

Like others have said. this starts with a long line....then longline and e collar then just e collar then live birds. rinse and repeat.


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## bthewilde (Feb 8, 2018)

Pay for a professional, it's worth every penny because you just look at it like a yearly fee to own that dog. I love my buddy's system up at Sage Spring Kennels in Idaho. He is all set up for bird doggin' and hatches his own pigeons and quail for them to learn on.


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## taxidermist (Sep 11, 2007)

I like the "rinse and repeat" vocabulary. That alone is the key in having a well trained gun dog of any breed. IMO, if you have a kennel and your dog sits in it for months, and you expect it to work a field/water great, you shouldn't have a dog. 

Professionally trained dogs are great and the way to go if you don't know what your doing. But when they come home, you still need to work with them everyday to burn that training into them.


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