# Old Trailers



## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

So after our tent mishap in the hail this weekend at Fishlake, I decided its time to start saving for a trailer. A newer nice rig is out of the question, they cost too much. But I think something under $1500 that is older and may need a little bit of work would be a good way to go. 

So a few questions-

Do you think I am nuts buying something like this? Is it a bad investment? 

Do all trailers need to be registered each year? How much does it usually cost?

Would it be worth it to wait until I can afford a newer rig?

I'm not a professional handyman, but I know my way around some tools; is it crazy to think I could perform the necessary repairs such as fixing leaks and minor electrical/plumbing issues? Would it turn into a money pit in a hurry?

What kinds of things might I be overlooking?


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

Let me add- we have a camp stove, and coolers, and really don't want or need the ice box, stove, sinks or toilets. I basically just want an overly sturdy tent with its own lighting/electrical system out of this trailer. Something that will keep us dry and secure.


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## GaryFish (Sep 7, 2007)

About four years ago, I went through what you are going through and bought a '97 pop-up. I love it. We do all our cooking outside for the most part. It has a fridge which I only use when I can plug it in. Mostly coolers though. WE love our pop-up though. I can tow it with my wife's minivan, or with my Explorer sport. You do have to register a camp trailer every year. It is like $36/year so not a big deal. The only maintenance I've had on mine was replacement of the tires, and I replaced the wheel-jack on the tongue with a bolt-on one I bought at Walmart. One of my lift cables broke but I was able to replace it with $5 worth of cable from lowes - about a two hour job, and I am no mechanic though I know how to use most tools.

The caution I give is to avoid the slippery slope. You'll get a pop-up and in a few years decide you want something with a crapper/shower - for the wife of course so then you get a hardside. Then a few more years and you're getting a hard side with a couple of slide outs. Then its a 5th wheel. Before you know it, you're driving one of those land yachts towing your jeep behind it. Its a dangerous slope my brother. Dangerous in deed.

I got mine by following the ads on KSL.com. The good ones go fast. Have cash in your pocket so you can buy it when you find the right one. I snagged mine out from under three other people who had to arrange the money. I showed up with many franklins and drove off with my trailer.


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## fixed blade XC-3 (Sep 11, 2007)

I bought an 1982 trailer it's 24' long and has been awesome. It's ugly as hell and has be beat up on by all owners including myself. It hasn't given my any problems. Everything works. Has a forced air furnace that squeals when first cranked up but goes away after about 2 minutes of running. I wouldn't be worried about old trailers. In fact mine might be for sale in after this season for around that price.


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

Thanks for the feedback...keep it coming!

One other item I just thought of- I have an '06 Nissan Titan. It's a V8, of course. What size trailer would be good? I was thinking smaller than 20 feet. I wanna be able to pull it up into the hills without a problem, so I don't want one that is too large.


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## fixed blade XC-3 (Sep 11, 2007)

You would be fine pulling a 24 footer. Those things have over 300 hp dont they? Under 20' is pretty **** small. I think a tent trailer unfolded is around 22' For what it's worth I had a tent trailer and hated it. They are a pain in the ass and don't hold anything. They take longer than a tent to set up. Uncomfortable, and when temps get down to 40, or below good luck on keeping it above 45 degrees in there. When you buy a trailer, first thing I'd recommend is going down to State Trailer Supply and Buying a solar power battery charger. Last year I ran My heater every night, Used lights, and the water pump for 2 weeks. Never once had to fire up the generator to charge my Batteries, the little solar charge kept them fully charged. They cost about $80 bucks and are worth every penny. Don't buy the one for 150 you wont need one that big. **** this could be the longest post I ever made. :lol:


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## orvis1 (Sep 7, 2007)

It is a slippery slope next thing you know you will barbie and ken camping like my family. The trailer is worth every penny as long as you use them!


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## Bears Butt (Sep 12, 2007)

My wife and I started out like most folks: tent, pickup bed covered, tent trailer, 13 ft. camp trailer, 18 ft. camp trailer (with a bathroom) and now a coach. I don't regret anything.
Of all of them the 18 ft. was the best (I still have it). Plenty of room for two growing boys, ourselves and all the gear. Most cooking was done outside, but it's sure nice when it's raining or snowing to be able to cook inside. The more niceties it has the more you will use it.
For starters, I would suggest something around 18 ft. With Bathroom, shower, fridge, stove, sink (with pump water system) and a "non-forced air" furnace. They use a lot of battery power. There are a bunch of older trailers out there that fit this bill and for under $1,000.
Watch out for bad wheel bearings, dry rot on either end of the roof (sagging inside) and make sure you test the water system BEFORE you buy it to make sure the pipes aren't broken.
Ugly colored walls and drapes can all be changed after you own it. Just make sure it's all functional. And make sure you have the bearings packed before you head out on the first camp trip. Also, you will need a spare tire, the truck wired to accomodate the trailer wires and if the trailer has brakes, you will need to have a controller installed inside the cab of your truck.
Good Luck and happy camping.


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## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

fixed blade said:


> You would be fine pulling a 24 footer. Those things have over 300 hp dont they? Under 20' is pretty **** small. I think a tent trailer unfolded is around 22' For what it's worth I had a tent trailer and hated it. They are a pain in **** don't hold anything. They take longer than a tent to set up. Uncomfortable, and when temps get down to 40, or below good luck on keeping it above 45 degrees in there. When you buy a trailer, first thing I'd recommend is going down to State Trailer Supply and Buying a solar power battery charger. Last year I ran My heater every night, Used lights, and the water pump for 2 weeks. Never once had to fire up the generator to charge my Batteries, the little solar charge kept them fully charged. They cost about $80 bucks and are worth every penny. Don't buy the one for 150 you wont need one that big. **** this could be the longest post I ever made. :lol:


I never read more than 3 lines into any post, but I agree 100% with the first 3 lines of fixed's post. I did not like ours at all, but was nicer than the tent. The biggest pain was that on mine, Skamper, the top had to be lifted a little to even be able to open the door and get at anything. And cold as can be, furnace would not ever work as battery power was not enough to run thermocoupler and at the same time the thermostat does not actually shut off, so the fan would run non stop once below 60 degrees. Other than that, it was great. My problems were more with the specific model, not the popups in general so much. We bought it in September for 900 several years ago and sold it 18 months later on KSL when everyone is buying in March for 1,200 cash. 5 people showed up with cash within hours of listing before I had even cleaned it.


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## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

Here is one:
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad ... =149&lpid=
There were two others like this on there over the weekend where people had bought land and just wanted the trailers gone.

Can't go too wrong when you start at a cost basis of zero.


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## .45 (Sep 21, 2007)

I've been 'kind of' looking for a year now. I've sure missed some dandy's. 

Bears Butt suggested to have the bearings packed......I would like to add, the bearings should be packed every three years or so, depending on travel, weather and road conditions. I would also look at the axle and frame, some trailers I've looked at sag, due to the heavy use or people actually using them to live in or to store odds and ends, maybe their garden supplies, fertilizers, lawnmower, gas....whatever. I'd prefer to buy one that has been used periodically for eight years, than one that has been 'lived' in for eight years.

Good luck.......after the purchase you'll be looking at awnings, a big giant truck to pull the thing, generators, equalizer's, satellite TV, air conditioning.... and a bigger trailer.. :wink: 

Let us know how you do !!


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## Greenhead 2 (Sep 13, 2007)

With that trucks suspension I wouldn't buy a trailer over 18ft, don't be fooled by anti-sway systems, they definitely help but I still see plenty of 1/2 ton or less rated trucks and SUVs upside down with sheets over the bodies of those family members. I pulled my older 12ft trailer with my wifes Jeep Cherokee once, scared me to death.

I also have a 32ft 5th wheel, I love and hate this trailer. Its great for just relaxing, sitting up on a mountain in a blizzard watching satellite TV while eating microwave popcorn with 8 of your buddies arguing over who needs to go brush the snow of the dish, or pop in a little mermaid or Clifford the big red dog video, and listening to a friend sing air supply songs while taking a shower.

Now my wife will never buy anything smaller and just made me spend two weekends installing a lamenate/wood floor and "cute" bathroom fixtures! Like it has been said, its a slippery slope. Each time you up grade your wife WILL want more up grades, you should see the horse trailer they are trying to get me to buy!


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

Okay, so the plot thickens... -Ov- 

My sister in law's parents have an old trailer that they want to get rid of, and they told me I could have it if I took it off their hands. Essentially, it's mine if I want it.

It is a 1966 16 or 17 foot Shasta. It has all the amenities, but it will need some work. There has been some leakage in the ceiling around the vents, and I can tell the wood is warped and cracked. It has a broken window on the front of it. They mentioned the water system has some leak issues. Last they checked, the stove and furnace are in good working order, but I would have it inspected to be sure. They aren't 100% sure the electrical wiring is all operational. It will need a deep cleaning, as quite a bit of dust has built up. Seems to me the mattress pads may need to be replaced, and at the bare minimum they will need to be re-upholstered. The walls and floor seem to be in pretty good shape. The tires are flat, but they say they aren't too old, and should pump up and hold air. 

All of this seemed to me like it would take some time, effort and money to take care of, but after getting it for free, I don't think the deal can be beat. 

They did mention something that kind of concerned me. They mentioned it was heavy. Now don't get me wrong; I don't figure I will be driving up Parley's going 80mph, but I don't want to be going 45 the whole way. 

So here's my questions:
Would it be worth it to take this trailer, considering the money, time and effort needed to get it operational?
-AND-
Is this trailer too heavy for my Nissan Titan to haul into the mountains?

PS- I would like constructive comments on the towing issue, not just "Buy another truck" or "your truck is weak sauce". It's what I am working with, I know there are tougher trucks out there, and I don't want to take this trailer if my truck can't safely and adequately tow it. I'm just trying to stay within my truck's limitations.


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## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

I would take it as long as you can get it in working order for much less than what it would sell for once working. The tires are guaranteed to be shot, just because they were good just before they went flat has no bearing on how many holes are in there now that it has set flat for umpteen months or years, so count on new tires. Leaks should be fairly easy to fix the leak, but the damage can be a pain. Water damage usually cuts the value in half for most trailers. The window should not be too expensive, but will probably have to be custom cut by a glass shop. Plumbing leaks are fairly easy. Electrical issues, not so easy, but general knowledge will help you narrow it down. In conclusion, I would take it for sure. Not much to lose really. 
I take GH2's opinion as qualified as he books a whole lot of miles on the road, but we disagree on this one. I have an '04 F150 and two a 23' lite trailer that weighs 2,900 lbs. I would not dream of towing it w/o the equalizer hitch, but as long as I have it I feel very comfortable with it. I have used it for about four years now on several trips and never had any type of issue. The trailer has brakes on each axle and I have carbon metallic heat dissipating performance brake pads all the way around. I am very careful to keep a larger distance in front of me in case I need to stop/slow. I can say that I am comfortable with this, but I don't know how that will transfer to your setup; I would dare guess that the free one's brakes do not work if it has any at all. Oh and driving up Parley's at 45 is a very likely possibility just short of the summit, there simply is not the room to make many passes when two lanes are occupied by slow tractor trailers.


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## orvis1 (Sep 7, 2007)

I agree with huge worst case scenario you donate it to charity or sell it off cheap. Check the trailer weight against what the Nissan says your truck is capable of pulling. Just account for extra weight of propane, gear, and the water you will carry. Most trucks pull parleys at 35-45 mph at the summit even with my 1 ton diesel it is rare I can get my rig over the mountain north of 50 mph. Just make the first trip a short one and close to home in case your repairs aren't complete that or use some ******* engineering!


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

Sounds like good advice so far guys, thanks. 

My truck is rated to haul/tow 9200 lbs, so it looks like it should have plenty of capability. Obviously the trailer doesn't weigh that much, so my guess is that I'd be OK. The owners manual did recommend using an equalizer hitch for anything over 5000 lbs. 

So how do I find out how much the trailer weighs, and how much do equalizer hitches run?


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## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

Chaser said:


> Sounds like good advice so far guys, thanks.
> 
> My truck is rated to haul/tow 9200 lbs, so it looks like it should have plenty of capability. Obviously the trailer doesn't weigh that much, so my guess is that I'd be OK. The owners manual did recommend using an equalizer hitch for anything over 5000 lbs.
> 
> So how do I find out how much the trailer weighs, and how much do equalizer hitches run?


nada.com is a good source for all specs, but '66 is too old I think, try calling a dealer maybe. Hitch usually goes for about $400-$600, don't get the chain style, those are supposedly only for sway not for the actual weight distribution that is more important I think. Try KSL and you should be able to get one for around $150 or so.


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## .45 (Sep 21, 2007)

2,200 lbs.


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

.45 said:


> 2,200 lbs.


Thanks a million! Sounds like I shouldn't have any problems.

Just gotta get it home now and take a closer look at what work it will need.


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

How does registering a newly-bought trailer work? Same as buying a car from a private seller? Go to the DMV with the title and all that jazz?


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## .45 (Sep 21, 2007)

Same....it's better to go in person anyway, so you can argue with them... :wink:


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

.45 said:


> so you can argue with them... :wink:


Uh oh! What's that supposed to mean???


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## .45 (Sep 21, 2007)

Hey........when I went down to register my pontoon's, not too many people could even figure it out.....so I called the Riverrat when he worked there and he set_ all_ of us straight !! Probably saved me 80 bucks for both !! :shock:

btw.....thanks RR77 !!


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## Greenhead 2 (Sep 13, 2007)

If this trailer is a 66 model I can't imagine it having brakes, if it does great and I'm sure some one added them. Do yourself a favor, take this trailer on a back road with your speed up to 30mph and slam on the brakes, I don't mean just get it to stop, slam on the brakes and make it stop. Then do it at 40mph. Imagine what 60 plus Mph will do.

With out brakes adding the GVW of the trailer pushing you the rear of your truck even with a sway/equalizer system will go where the trailer wants it to. 

When a trailer gets to about a 20 degree angle its all over, you have really only two options, accelerate as fast as possible and hold on during the fish tail and keep accelerating!
Second option DRIVE your vehicle into the ditch, by you taking that control instead of the trailer dictating it and you trying to stay on the road you'll increase your odds of keeping your truck upright a bunch even if the trailer flips. Third option is pray, I personally don't put much stock in that option, then again every crash or loss of control I've had, I've yelled a bunch of oh sh#*s and God was mentioned a bunch of times, so maybe that was a prayer?

Hers a story of how much force a trailer has when pushing you. My buddy has a 26ft 5th wheel he pulls this with a 2007 1ton single axle ford. He was headed to Vegas and between cedar and St George a semi truck blew a tire in front of him, he slammed the brakes to avoid the rubber coming at him and was able to miss the cap and for the first few miles he thought everything was fine.

He then kept hearing a popping noise and saw the trailer was leaning to the left. The force of the trailer pushing him broke the hitch, the hitch was rated for 25 thousand pounds he only had cloths in it! His trailer has brakes. Another buddy went and towed his trailer to St George for him so he could get a new hitch.

I can't even remember how many times I've stopped at a wreck and heard the crash victims say " the dealer said I'd be fine pulling this". Its not about pulling it and HP, its getting it to stop safely!

I've used my 4wheeler to pull my 12ft camp trailer around my yard and farm several times, just cause it can pull it does not mean you'll see me booging up to Fishlake and its only thirty miles from my house anytime soon. 

You've got the trailer and I understand you won't be buying a new truck to pull it, so be careful, don't go cheap on a hitch system, beef up the shocks on your truck and drive slow, I'd rather you hold me up at 55mph while I'm hauling 129,000 over Indian canyon, than see you and your family laid over and crying at a white sheet. 
Sorry this is so long but the deaths I've seen this summer are already over thirty.


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

So what you are saying is that you would never pull a camp trailer of any sort with anything less that a 1 or 3/4 ton truck, simply because of the braking issue?


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## Me and Annie (Mar 3, 2008)

I was in the trailer parts business for a long time. Fixing the brakes is not a real difficult process. Is the trailer single or tandem axle. If it is tandem I would guess it has brakes on just one axle probably the front. It is also probable that the brakes don't work. When you take the hubs off the axle to grease the bearings (I would suggest replacing) you will find the brakes. For about $50 per side you can replace the whole brake (four bolts on the brake flange.) It is likely you will need to rewire the lights and brakes but this is really simple. You can get on the internet and get wiring diagrams. Take the old brake unit with you and go to Hendersons on 3rd west in SLC. They will be able to get you what you need. I am talking in generalities here as there are some obsolete axle sizes out there and some axles that had the brakes welded on. Most likely you have 3500 lb axles and you won't have a problem. 

As far the the brake system in your truck all the newer GM, Ford and Dodge's have a plug under the dash for the controller to plug into You just have to get the appropriate adaptor. I am not sure if this is the case with your Nissan. If you have the plug, installing a controller is simple if not I would recommend taking somewhere and having it done. You can do it but it is a pain. Let me know if I can be of help.


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## Greenhead 2 (Sep 13, 2007)

Pretty much, I usually add a leaf to the springs of a 3/4 ton truck to. I haul a lot of stuff, my truck has more miles with a trailer behind it than with out I'll bet. My last load of manure to the dump including the 14ft dump trailer and my truck was 37,230lbs, gotta love that 12 valve cummins!


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## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

GH2, I thought of you when I saw this one today. Certainly, without trailer brakes...can't have a good outcome and a Jeep....???. http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=148&sid=7269078


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

Yes, it is a tandem axel. It has one of the newer electrical hook-ups for the brakes/marker lights, so that almost makes me wonder if brakes are present. I'll check it out when I get it home. Sounds like a brake replacement and/or upgrade would be a good investment.


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## Greenhead 2 (Sep 13, 2007)

Being a tandem axel trailer it will help with the trailer walking around on its own, especially if you have a blowout.

Huge, my buddy was on the other side of the wreck, he was happy until the car that ran underneath that semi, he was about six trucks back. 
I had the joy of being caught up in the two trucks that caught on fire by Scipio. I jumped on the frontage road to get back to scipio and was smiling a big grin because I didn't have to deal with all that traffic.

Things were just peachy until I got just about to the top of the summit so I could get back on the highway when a hill, probably 17pct grade for a 1/4 mile popped up in front of me! I was a 127,820 pulling doubles and the road was extremely wash boarded. I went from seventeenth gear to low third in seconds, I dropped down to 900rpms, I couldn't drop to second gear or I would have stopped and not been able to get going again even if I would have dropped my second trailer. About 100yds from the top I started to spin out,my turbos got so hot they melted my washer fluid bottle, luckily it hopped up to the summit and I was able to breath again.


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

Well, I found out for sure that the trailer has brakes, so that's good, and it looks like my truck is already set up to plug in a controller unit. I spoke with the folks at State Trailer. One lady recommended I try towing the thing around a bit to see how it does before I go all out and install an equalizer hitch. I guess I'll have to take it really easy to assess the situation. 

A couple maintenance items I have been looking into:

How hard is it to re-pack the bearings myself? Seems I could save a grundle of money doing this, and I watched a few vids on youtube that showed how. It seemed fairly simple.

Where could I take the trailer to have the furnace and stove looked over to make sure they are in good working order? I don't wanna gas myself out if they aren't working right.


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## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

Packing bearings is pretty easy for anyone who knows how to turn a wrench. Getting seals back in straight is the only thing that takes any brain power for the most part. An equalizer hitch....certainly driving around without it will make you better appreciate it; get one for sure. For about $125 you can get one on KSL, money very well spent. http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad ... =531&lpid=
Good luck, I think it will bring you a lot of fun, just be sure and keep it maintained to avoid the issues GH2 mentions and a burned up bearing on the highway is not much fun easier.


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## Greenhead 2 (Sep 13, 2007)

Buy the equalizer!!!!! Its added safety if nothing else.

Packing the bearings is easy. I just put a glob in my hand and toss the bearing into it until the grease is coming through the other side. twist the nut snug to help push in the grease, then back it off to where the wheel has very little drag to almost no drag, slip in the cotter pin and your good.
Also replace the dust cover when your done with a cover that has a grease zerk, then every thousand miles or so give it a squirt, buy one set of extra bearings and leave them in the trailer.

Take the trailer to a trailer sales shop to have the furnace and stove checked out, a friend of mine from delta died this winter because of faulty equipment. His fridge caught fire, the carbon monoxcide killed him, it then caught fire and burned him up. Put in a GOOD detector for fire and monoxcide.


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

Well, I got the old beast home, but not after some minor drama. About a mile away from where we picked it up, I tapped the brakes as I went over a small bump. I had the trailer attached electrically to my truck, but I don't have a brake controller unit. An impulse must've made its way to the trailer brakes cuz they locked up on me! The tires were squealing so I pulled over and detached the wiring. Immediately I heard the trailer brakes release. I towed it home the rest of the way without lights (which by the way, don't work).

Here she is: WHAT A BEAUT!!! :wink:
[attachment=3:24mmvay4]Trailer Pics 001.1.JPG[/attachment:24mmvay4]
[attachment=2:24mmvay4]Trailer Pics 002.1.JPG[/attachment:24mmvay4]

It actually is in very good shape, considering how long it sat without use, and how old it is. The tires went flat the next morning. I will be buying new ones anyway.

It took a couple hours to clean up the inside, but it is now very clean. After cleaning it, I made a list of all the things that I noticed that need repair, and started on the most urgent, the leaky roof vent and damaged ceiling. I cut all the damaged wood out, removed the old vent, installed the new one, and now I just need to borrow a jigsaw and circular saw to install the new plywood on the ceiling.
[attachment=1:24mmvay4]Trailer Pics 009.1.JPG[/attachment:24mmvay4]

I found quite the surprise when I removed the vent lid for the refrigerator. There was a garbage bag and a half of straw, grass, leaves, feathers, and bird crap filling the WHOLE area from the back of the fridge up to 5 inches from the top of the vent. NASTY. Here's what fell down into the bottom of the access:
[attachment=0:24mmvay4]Trailer Pics 004.1.JPG[/attachment:24mmvay4]

So after a few small repairs to get it water/critter proof, it will be ready to stay in. In time (and before using anything gas operated) I will inspect all the LP lines and junctions, install a CO monitor, and try all the appliances out at home. I also need to check all the water lines to ensure there are no leaks.

WHAT A PROJECT!!!


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## .45 (Sep 21, 2007)

It is a lot of work....and anything for an RV / trailer is expensive. I hope you get done with it in time to use this year.... :|


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

.45 said:


> It is a lot of work....and anything for an RV / trailer is expensive. I hope you get done with it in time to use this year.... :|


That probably won't happen, but I at least need to get the new tires on it and get it registered so I can tow it down to my family's warehouse for storage over the winter. Until then, it will grace my driveway and I'll fiddle around with the small things I can fix. Next summer, its game on!

One question I forgot to ask in my previous post-

The tongue seems awfully short to me. I can't turn very sharp when I am backing it up as it gets too close to my bumper for comfort. Also, I can't drop my tailgate without it hitting the jack and propane cylinders. Is there any way the tongue could be extended without compromising it's strength? Even a foot would give me the breathing room I need.


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## Greenhead 2 (Sep 13, 2007)

If you take it to a welding shop they can extend it pretty easy, probably about 100 bucks. I wouldn't license it until you are ready to use it, why pay the fees if you won't be using it for eight months? I have a buddy that has not registered his trailer horse trailers for like 10yrs and has never been stopped.


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## Huntoholic (Sep 17, 2008)

Make sure those vents get cleaned out real good. Poor venting is one of the major causes of carbon monoxide deaths.


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## Chaser (Sep 28, 2007)

Huntoholic said:


> Make sure those vents get cleaned out real good. Poor venting is one of the major causes of carbon monoxide deaths.


Shoot- with how clogged up that fridge vent was with all the straw and grass and such, it would've caught on fire long before CO would have gotten to anyone! It was out of control. Thanks for the suggestion, Huntoholic! You can never be too safe with that stuff. One small mistake can end up a tragedy. Good lookin' out!


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## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

Greenhead 2 said:


> If you take it to a welding shop they can extend it pretty easy, probably about 100 bucks. I wouldn't license it until you are ready to use it, why pay the fees if you won't be using it for eight months? I have a buddy that has not registered his trailer horse trailers for like 10yrs and has never been stopped.


I was thinking the same thing!


Huntoholic said:


> Make sure those vents get cleaned out real good. Poor venting is one of the major causes of carbon monoxide deaths.


The best way to do so is with your 12 gauge brass or whatever the most course material you can find is and run that down the vent pipe. To remove the fridge to access the vent you have to detach the face of the fridge and disconnect the gas. 
I think you have a great project; sounds like you have it under control. I think that will work well for you; I expected it to look a lot worse. Good luck!


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