# What to look for when buying a diesel?



## truemule (Sep 12, 2007)

OK, I think I might have the ol' 1/2 ton sold. I know I'm getting a diesel (Probably a 98-04 dodge). My question is, what types of things do you look for on a diesel that will help me decide it is in good conition? The basics are easy (Body, interior,tires, etc..) I just want to know what all you knowledgeable diesel folk would be specifically looking for on a diesel setup. Ford vs. Chevy vs. Dodge aside, I know the pros and cons of those. I just want some guidelines to help me make a good decision/purchase.

Thanks,


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## El Matador (Dec 21, 2007)

Any diesel will eat front end parts like tasty snacks. It's kind of a regular maintenance item, but it may be the difference between a good deal or not. Replacing ball joints, wheel bearings, and steering components can cost several hundred to a thousand or more. 

Glow plugs are another item that usually last 75-100k. See if they've been replaced or if any are bad. If you start a cold engine and you get a considerable amount of white smoke, you probably have one or more bad plugs.

See if the owner knows how to drain the water out of the fuel system. A knowledgeable owner will do this on a regular basis. If they don't know how, chances are they are not so good at maintaining their vehicle.

Turbo can be looked at usually by removing some intake ducting. The turbo wheel should be clean and have sharp corners. If it's dirty or looks like it's been sanded down that's a sign of poor air filtration, and the engine could have significant wear as a result.

I would definitely agree with fatbass on the auto trans. Regular flushing will prolong it's life however. A manual trans will last, but the clutch may or may not. Kind of depends on driving habits. It would be rare for one to last 200k though, most will last around 100-150k. 

Getting one that's modded isn't a bad idea, but see how long the mods have been on. If it's been chipped or had big tires on for a long time, there's gonna be more wear on stuff. 

Make sure the hazard lights are in good working condition. It's a courtesy to Chevy drivers to turn these on when they're passing you on the hills :wink: Actually I think they're good trucks other than the auto trannies. A lot of my friends that tow have them but generally they like the manuals because they last. If you do hop it up, an auto tranny will cost you 3-4k for a good build, whereas all you need for a manual is a good clutch (600-1200 depending on if you install it yourself or not).


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## LOAH (Sep 29, 2007)

The most important aspect of getting a diesel is to make sure your exhaust is aimed out to the side and the suspension puts the pipe level with passenger cars' windows. :? 

...Because everybody loves the sweet taste of diesel in the air.  

Just messing with you. I'll probably never drive a diesel since they crap the nastiest exhaust into the air and I'd rather not contribute to that, but I guess they have their advantages.


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## El Matador (Dec 21, 2007)

The frown that appears on the face of someone who is exposed to diesel exhaust is directly proportional to the smile on the face of the person driving the diesel.


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## LOAH (Sep 29, 2007)

I figured. :lol:


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## sagebrush (Sep 8, 2007)

El Matador said:


> Glow plugs are another item that usually last 75-100k. See if they've been replaced or if any are bad. If you start a cold engine and you get a considerable amount of white smoke, you probably have one or more bad plugs.


this only applies to chev and ford..dodge uses grid heaters.

here check out this web site for more info..look under 3rd generation section

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/index.php

if you happen upon a 2007 with a manul trans and the 5.9L snag it up..also some 07's can be had for a decent price compared to buying a used one say a couple of years old.
best to look on the internet you might have to travel a bit for some, but the deals are out there.


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## truemule (Sep 12, 2007)

Thanks for all the replies and information. I have a few questions about maintenance.

1. I have been told that some diesels take an additive in the anitfreeze about once a year. Is this fact or what is the deal with this? Can I pick this up at anyu auto parts store?

2. A lubicant additive in the fuel. Is this necesary for and early 2000 truck? How aften to put it in the fuel, and what brands are recommended?

Any other maintenace ideas you have please share. 

thanks again,


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## huntingbuddy (Sep 10, 2007)

LOAH said:


> The most important aspect of getting a diesel is to make sure your exhaust is aimed out to the side and the suspension puts the pipe level with passenger cars' windows. :?
> 
> ...Because everybody loves the sweet taste of diesel in the air.
> 
> Just messing with you. I'll probably never drive a diesel since they crap the nastiest exhaust into the air and I'd rather not contribute to that, but I guess they have their advantages.


Actually diesels are cleaner than your gasoline cars, escpcially with these new emission standards


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## meandaboy (Dec 15, 2007)

truemule said:


> Thanks for all the replies and information. I have a few questions about maintenance.
> 
> 1. I have been told that some diesels take an additive in the anitfreeze about once a year. Is this fact or what is the deal with this? Can I pick this up at anyu auto parts store?
> 
> ...


 I work in the automotive industry and the Powerstrokes are the only ones I am aware of that require a coolant additive, due to the possibility of pinholes in the cooling system and I would only use the Motorcraft additive although there are probably aftermarket products availabe.

I own a Powerstroke and add a fuel additive every tank. We have seen alot of problems due to the low sulphur fuels ie: Powerstrokes leak fuel, Cummins ruin lift and injection pumps although we have personally not seen problems with the Duramax "yet". The problem with the low sulphur fuel is the sulphur was the lubricity in the fuel. As far as the brand anything that states it is has a lubricity additive should be fine.

As far as maintenance they are expensive, somewhat less maintenance than gas as there are no tune ups. But fuel and air filters are the key to a diesel and any maintenance including oil changes plan on doubling your cost versus a gas engine.

Remember a diesel is not intended to be a grocery getter, I personally have a Chevrolet K1500 that is my daily driver and an F250 for long trips and pulling the trailer that's what they are intended for.


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## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

Having worked in auto parts several years ago I know that one additive that many came in for by name was Power Service. One additive is an antifreeze additive for the fuel since diesel has a higher freezing point than gasoline. 

My family has several diesels; most of the companies are experiencing intake issues ever since the new emmisions requirements became effective (was it in '04??). To achieve the cleaner emmissions the engine must run at a higher heat, which inherently creates some other issues. Along with the Cummins being bulletproof it has equally been said of the 7.3 powerstroke, but they have had many issues ever since they changed from the 7.3. My dad had an '03 Cummins, the only issue that he ever had was related to the front end; it had a small lift job installed by the dealer and 33" wheels, wear on the tires was not extremely even and tires wore much faster than on other trucks.


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## truemule (Sep 12, 2007)

What brand of fuel additive do you use/reccomend?


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## BRL1 (Sep 12, 2007)

For both of my GM's, a 93 and a 01, I run half of bottle per tank, all year long, of Stanadyne Blue.


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## fixed blade XC-3 (Sep 11, 2007)

El Matador said:


> Glow plugs are another item that usually last 75-100k. See if they've been replaced or if any are bad. If you start a cold engine and you get a considerable amount of white smoke, you probably have one or more bad plugs.


My **** ford blows out alot of white smoke when starting it cold. How do you test the glow plugs to see which is bad?


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## El Matador (Dec 21, 2007)

You need an ohmmeter. Each plug should have a certain resistance, but if they're bad they'll show infinite resistance. Here's a good writeup from Dieselstop
I had some that were bad, but I decided to just replace all of them while I was at it.


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## fixed blade XC-3 (Sep 11, 2007)

Do you have to pull the valve covers to find them?


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## El Matador (Dec 21, 2007)

fixed blade said:


> Do you have to pull the valve covers to find them?


To change the plugs you will have to remove the valve covers. But you can get to the connector to test them without doing so. If you find a bad one, I would at least replace all 4 on that side. They're like 8 or 9 bucks each I think.


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## mateo (Nov 12, 2007)

fixed blade, what year is your ford? If it's a pre powerstroke, white smoke is normal on a cold engine. If it's a power stroke, then disregard this, since I know very little about them.


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## fixed blade XC-3 (Sep 11, 2007)

it's a 99. Powerstroke. Shut up fatbass and .45. :mrgreen:


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## sagebrush (Sep 8, 2007)

should of had a V-8..oops I mean a cummins


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## fixed blade XC-3 (Sep 11, 2007)

Shut up sagebrush.


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## sagebrush (Sep 8, 2007)

their is still for ya fixed blade


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## Greenhead 2 (Sep 13, 2007)

As mentioned, maintenance is the key thing with diesel engines, heck any engine. Oil changes can be drawn out to around 5000-7500 miles, but cost more than gas to service. Change your fuel filters everytime and air filter every other. In my semi trucks and dodge I also run Lucas oil treatment, and fuel conditioner. In all year and makes you should run a fuel conditioner. Not because of it geling up, although that is a concern, but not so much with ultra low sulpher fuel, its almost as hot as gas. You need to add it because the have taken out so much of the oil that your fuel pump needs it. It will cause premature wear on your fuel pump rings and pistons. Low sulpher fuel also gives you less MPG. Before buying a diesel today, you really should think about why you need/want one. They cost more to buy and maintain. MPG are less than gas generally. The only PRO to them is longevity and pulling. If you plan on keeping it awhile, the motor will out last the truck. All manufactures have had tranny problems at one time. But if rebuild them and don't skimp on parts and a good shift kit, they will last as long as the motor. overdrive is the killer on automatic transmissions. But a gas motor today might be a better option unless you pull a lot of weight or plan on keeping the truck 10 plus years.


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## proutdoors (Sep 24, 2007)

> But a gas motor today might be a better option unless you pull a lot of weight or plan on keeping the truck 10 plus years.


Amen, exactly why I hope to NEVER own a diesel. The stink, make way too much noise, and cost the 'average' guy way too much upfront and in upkeep, IMHO.


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## .45 (Sep 21, 2007)

proutdoors said:


> > But a gas motor today might be a better option unless you pull a lot of weight or plan on keeping the truck 10 plus years.
> 
> 
> Amen, exactly why I hope to NEVER own a diesel. The stink, make way too much noise, and cost the 'average' guy way too much upfront and in upkeep, IMHO.


Ditto.....diesels are like big people....stink, slow, expensive, over-rated, noisy, under powered and there nothing 'upfront'...........Ha ha ha ha.... _(O)_


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## truemule (Sep 12, 2007)

Thanks for all the input guys. 

I looked at alot of trucks and decided on a 2000 7.3L powerstroke w/ turbo. Thats a right a Ford. Take your best shot chevy or dodge guys. 

Greenhead, I knew about the increased costs going into this. I am pulling any where from 5000 to 10,000 lbs during the summer months mostly, the old 1/2 ton just wasn't pulling its weight (pun intended). I don't drive my truck all that much anyway, and the diesel gets a little better mileage than the 1/2 ton anyway so the cost of gas will be neglegable. It is the rest of the maintenance cost that i will notice.

Anyway getting use to the engine is a little different. It makes noise, and being my first diesel I'm not quite used to how it is suppose to sound. So its a learning curve. I would like to get the glow plugs checked just because they haven't been changed and I would just like to make sure there still performing up to par. Anyone have a good diesel mechanic in the davis/weber county area they can reccomend?


Thaks again for the help and comments.


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## BRL1 (Sep 12, 2007)

I have really good luck dealing with Baker Diesel in Ogden, 801-731-2921.


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## Mojo1 (Sep 8, 2007)

BRL1 said:


> I have really good luck dealing with Baker Diesel in Ogden, 801-731-2921.


Can't wrong at Baker!
Those guys are top notch on diesels and nice guys to boot; They showed me a trick to getting access to change my fuel filter and didn't charge me a dime for it.


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## bigpapacow (Nov 15, 2007)

Speaking of Diesels, I have mine up for sale. 2000 Ford F250 for $13500. Here is the link:

url=http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?.............]auto trader


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## Treehugnhuntr (Sep 7, 2007)

What I look for in a Deisel is a Toyota symbol somewhere on the vehicle. Still haven't found it, but give it 6 months. :wink: :wink:


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## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

bigpapacow said:


> Speaking of Diesels, I have mine up for sale. 2000 Ford F250 for $13500. Here is the link:
> 
> auto trader


that seems reasonable based on NADA from $15.4-$18.1k on the consumer edition of NADA, usually inflated about 20% or so.

BTW-here is an easier way to post your link, so it does not make the screen really wide:
"(use a bracket here) url=http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?.............]auto trader[/url]


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