# Arrows



## LaytonArcher (Jul 13, 2009)

Just curious....I am sure this topic has been covered. But I am considering new arrows for next year and would like some opinions on favorites. I have a buddy who shoots the Full Metal Jackets, another Gold Tips. I shooet Beamans currently.

Thanks in advance!

LA


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## Riverlution (Sep 23, 2008)

Yo LA, 

Forget the arrows post the pictures of elk you shot. I want to see them. Sounded like the arrows didn't matter. Any elk is a trophy in my book.

Riv


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## stablebuck (Nov 22, 2007)

Easton A/C/C Pro Hunters


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## dkhntrdstn (Sep 7, 2007)

Gold tip. the Velocity pro. love them they fly great and can take a beating.and the price is just right.


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## Poo Pie (Nov 23, 2007)

great advice dustinman! stepped up from gold tip xt's to the velocity pro's, man those things shoot flat and fast!


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## middlefork (Nov 2, 2008)

I started using P.S.E. X-weave and they seem pretty good so far.


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## Riverrat77 (Sep 7, 2007)

If you're shooting Bemans, you're good to go. If you want to step up, shoot either those ACC Pro's that Stablebuck is using or shoot FMJ's. The Axis are pretty good too and if you don't want to spend as much, check out Beman ICS Elite's or Epics. Good stuff.... Beman product is solid though, can't go wrong with any of it. If you want flat and fast, we've got Flatlines and Flatline Surgicals (.001 straightness) if you're a speed freak. I'm not a fan of em, but they just fit what some guys want from their setup. Speaking from personal experience, you'll have a hard time finding any all carbon arrow that is as durable as a FMJ with the aluminum jacket around that carbon core... they just absolutely take a beating. I'd know, I've put a few through some durability tests.  

Funny thing, had a buddy (one of our product engineers) shooting a couple FMJ 400's at an iron maiden style target at a 3D shoot in Wyoming. He had to shoot them about 4 times each into the iron to get them to finally blow up and totally mushroom out into the big metal flower look.... pretty dang stout. 8)


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## swbuckmaster (Sep 14, 2007)

Gold Tip has always treated me well. Great company great hunting arrow!!!


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## Treehugnhuntr (Sep 7, 2007)

Buy a good quality arrow within your budget and make sure your bow is tuned. In my mind there are two options, heavy or light. I prefer heavy. I shoot 70 lbs. at with a 495 grain arrow. Trajectory suffers a bit, but I'll take the trade off.


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## bullsnot (Aug 10, 2010)

I've been happy with Gold Tips up till now but is it just me or does the spline strength weaken after a while? I have some that have thousands of shots on them and they act like they bow isn't tuned anymore, like a weak spline reaction. My newer arrows fly straight. 

Maybe it's just a carbon thing, I only switched a few years ago. My bow is set at 78lbs.


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## swbuckmaster (Sep 14, 2007)

Bullsnot as long as you are not banging all 12 of your arrows in the 10 ring at 20 yards the arrows will last about forever! "Like you said you have 1,000 of shots with them." But if you are shooting them at the same dot it doesn't matter what arrow you are using it will weaken or soften up the walls. If someone tells you different you can tell them I said Bull Sheit! lol

Also all arrows have a dynamic spine. if you dont know how to tune an arrow you will never know how good of groups you can have. If you have tuned your arrows and labeled them you can tell if you have flyers. If I get a flyer I will retune the arrow. If the arrow wont retune I toss it or use it on the 2-5 yard shots so if someone caves in my arrow im not out a good one! 

Gold Tip arrows are awesome arrows! I especially like the pro hunter arrows!


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## Fowlmouth (Oct 4, 2008)

Easton Axis Full Metal Jackets............It worked great this year on my elk.........Also I am a big fan of the Muzzy broadheads.....


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## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

Gold Tip XTs for me.


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## wileywapati (Sep 9, 2007)

Always been happy with the Gold Tip Pro's


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## elk22hunter (Sep 7, 2007)

Gold Tip By FAR! I have shot the A/C/C's and they were good for hunting or shooting one arrow at each spot on the target but they nor the full metal jackets do worth a poop when you shoot a bunch of arrows into the same spot like on League night. They have the ability to dent or get a crease. I shoot Gold Tip Ultra light Pro's. I am on the complete other end of the spectrum from Treehugger, weight wise, but I imagine both will do the trick.


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## bullsnot (Aug 10, 2010)

swbuckmaster said:


> Also all arrows have a dynamic spine. if you dont know how to tune an arrow you will never know how good of groups you can have.


Do tell...I make sure I cut em to the exact same length, sqaure em off, and I wrap and fletch them maticulously but I don't do any more than that. I don't weigh em or anything.

I don't bang the 10 ring at 20 but I have missed my target a few times at longer ranges and I'm thinking that may contribute to weakening them. I have identified and labled fliers but they have just been cast aside.


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## stablebuck (Nov 22, 2007)

I don't think I'd be confident enough to go hunting if I couldn't bang the 10 ring at 20 yards...I would re-evaluate my shooting technique if I were you...especially if you are shooting a tuned bow.


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## Riverrat77 (Sep 7, 2007)

elk22hunter said:


> Gold Tip By FAR! I have shot the A/C/C's and they were good for hunting or shooting one arrow at each spot on the target but they nor the full metal jackets do worth a poop when you shoot a bunch of arrows into the same spot like on League night. They have the ability to dent or get a crease.


I'm no expert... let me just state that first to make sure somebody doesn't try and pile that bs on me later. All I have to go off of is many hundreds (if not a lot more) of shots with FMJ's over the last couple years. I shoot them *a lot*... in fact, exclusively and I could almost positively say even at least three times a week if not more, all year long at our 3D critters out back of the plant. I've had some that have gotten creases in the jacket, I've slapped arrows together from close range out to 80 yards and noticed scrapes in the finish where points have slid along another arrow on the way to the target. It doesn't seem to affect accuracy that drastically, if its noticeable at all...

In fact, until I actually shot the vanes off a couple that had creases in the jacket, they were some of my hunting shafts for this season and I had no problem with accuracy out to 70 yards on little whitetail deer targets, let alone something like an elk. Like I said, I love em because they are durable and even with dings and dents can still be shot very accurately out of a tuned bow.

The thick carbon wall inside the jacket will keep those dings and dents from really affecting your arrow flight like you would get if you shot an empty aluminum tube with the same damages to the outside wall. Of course, if you know you're slapping arrows, make sure you flex test them to make sure the carbon isn't actually busted on the inside, but you should do that anyway with any arrow you shoot. I know Mr. Macintosh is a probably a lot closer to an expert than I will ever be... but don't let a little wear and tear scare you off of FMJ's. I love em, I've worn em out trying to shoot as often as I possibly can, and they just keep on coming back for more.

As far as ACC's go, I've got a buddy who swears by them for hunting shafts but I personally have never shot them and as long as we're making FMJ's I never will. I think they're probably a fantastic shaft as well but without having ever shot them, I can't speak for their durability or the claim that they will hold a bend if you hit something hard with them.


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## bullsnot (Aug 10, 2010)

stablebuck said:


> I don't think I'd be confident enough to go hunting if I couldn't bang the 10 ring at 20 yards...I would re-evaluate my shooting technique if I were you...especially if you are shooting a tuned bow.


I think you mis-understood the conversation. I'm saying I don't just stand at 20 yards and shoot. I think what SW was saying is that if you do nothing but shoot at 20 yards and pound the bullseye you will weaken your arrows and I was saying that I shoot from all different ranges. I wasn't referring to my accuracy.


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## stablebuck (Nov 22, 2007)

copy that...my mistake...


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## bullsnot (Aug 10, 2010)

stablebuck said:


> copy that...my mistake...


Hey no worries...so what are you guys doing to tune your arrows? I'm very interested.


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## swbuckmaster (Sep 14, 2007)

bullsnot 
I shoot "ONE" bare shaft through paper at 4-5 yards. I make that shaft bullet hole without fletchings. Once it is getting a bullet hole at 4-5 yards I will check it at 8,10,15 ect "It will shoot a bullet hole without fletchings at any distance past 4-5 yards! Most shooters incorrectly shoot through paper to close and then say paper tunning sucks and go group tune. 

Once I get one arrow to shoot a bullet hole through paper. I set that arrow aside and lable it number 1. I then pick up number 2 and shoot it through the paper. If it doesnt shoot a bullet hole "DONT GO AND DINK WITH THE REST OR NOCK POINT" just twist the nock a 1/4 turn until it will shoot a bullet hole. this is also where people get frustrated when shooting through paper. If you shoot different arrows and they have not been tuned you will chase bullet holes all day long. What you are doing is trying to get all of your arrows flexing the same way out of your bow. This will shrink up your groups. It however takes a lot of time and you need to be able to shoot consistently to have it work.

I can shoot consistently enough to shoot my number one arrow "a bare shaft" at twenty yards in the 10 ring, Then fletch up my number 2 arrow and shoot it in the same 10 ring. Then pick up my number three arrow fletch it attach a broad head and ruin the number 1 and number 2 arrow already in the 10 ring if I want. I can also shoot my fixed blade head and they will fly with my field tips out to a 100 yards! I just dont have problems like some people have shooting broadheads. 

The process I go through picking out my arrows cutting the one arrow down 1" at a time and shooting it until I find the perfect length that will fly out of my bow at factory specs, then tuning my arrows like stated above is no different then working up a load for a rifle. once you find what your bow wants to shoot you dont know what you are capable of shooting. Good luck 

one of these days i'm going to film the whole process from making my strings to super tuning the bow and arrows.


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