# reloading help please



## Bhilly81 (Oct 18, 2009)

So I just purchased a reloading press and I am planning on reloading a 223 270 and a 243 but I haven't done it for years and on top of that I never did much of anything but pressing and using the deburring tool is there any good thoughts and ideas on where and how to get started what I saw on you tube didn't help to much on the getting started part and I am more of a visual learner as well plus to make it harder or worse I just moved and don't have the internet yet either I am doing all this using my phone 

Thanks for any thoughts and input


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## 10yearquest (Oct 15, 2009)

Do you have a reloading manual? I know you said you were more visual but the steps are all there you just have to follow them. Break it down into small processes and take your time. good luck.


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## RBoomK (Feb 10, 2011)

+1 on the reloading manuals. I haven't looked through all of them, but the Hornady and Lyman manuals have some good info on components and safety in the first few chapters. Another great read is the Precision Shooting Reloading Guide by Dave Brennan.


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## Bhilly81 (Oct 18, 2009)

10yearquest said:


> Do you have a reloading manual? I know you said you were more visual but the steps are all there you just have to follow them. Break it down into small processes and take your time. good luck.


I have 2 reloading manuals plus everything that came with the press kit I was reading through it and it was confusing me more but I am not sure why at this time


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## Loke (Sep 7, 2007)

What parts are you confused about? Just like anything, all of the small details can be a bit overwhelming. But if you slow down, and think things through they will usually work out. Take your time, and follow the directions in the manuals. Having a friend that knows what he is diong doesn't hurt much, but listening to someone who doesn't care to follow the rules can really hurt a lot.


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## BPturkeys (Sep 13, 2007)

Loke said:


> What parts are you confused about? Just like anything, all of the small details can be a bit overwhelming. But if you slow down, and think things through they will usually work out. Take your time, and follow the directions in the manuals. Plus ONE!  Having a friend that knows what he is diong doesn't hurt much, but listening to someone who doesn't care to follow the rules can really hurt a lot.


Remember one thing...consistency in every step is the key to good reloading. Just follow the manual EXACTLY.


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## Bhilly81 (Oct 18, 2009)

I guess I am the most confused about is setting up the dies properly but I should be able to figure it out slowly but could you use the same dies for multiple rifles or would I be better off getting a die for each specific rifle?


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## RBoomK (Feb 10, 2011)

bb, When you can get back to internet access, check out this video:





After you have watched it, watch the Part II and then Part III. You have to have a specific set of dies for EACH caliber you intend to reload.


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## Bhilly81 (Oct 18, 2009)

RBoomK said:


> bb, When you can get back to internet access, check out this video:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yea I understand for each caliber but I will be working with two separate 243 as well as two separate 270 guns so I will be working with 5 different guns that's where I am wondering about the dies


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## RBoomK (Feb 10, 2011)

Each individual rifle will like it's own particular bullet, powder charge and type, primer, and seating depth. The only way to find out is by lots of experimentation with each. You will not need separate dies for each rifle.


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## Al Hansen (Sep 7, 2007)

bigboybdub said:


> RBoomK said:
> 
> 
> > bb, When you can get back to internet access, check out this video:
> ...


I shoot 3 different .204's. They all happen to like the seating depth that my one set of dies are set at. It's a real fluke to have three rifles and just use one set of dies. I would usually say a rifle will need it's own set of dies. The only way to tell is try it. They all don't like the same powder charge. Two are the same and the third rifle likes a half grain lighter. The variables are crazy but thats the fun of it.


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## mikevanwilder (Nov 11, 2008)

bigboybdub said:


> I guess I am the most confused about is setting up the dies properly but I should be able to figure it out slowly but could you use the same dies for multiple rifles or would I be better off getting a die for each specific rifle?


Each die set should have instructions with them. I know RCBS come with instructions. They will tell you just how to set the dies up. Get yourself a good caliper so you can get accurate measurements on OAL this is usually all that will change on individual rifles of the same caliber.(in regards to the dies of course) 
I don't have mulitple rifles of the same caliber but having a set of dies for each is a good idea. So if you have to change seating depth or whatever else you can just change dies and not have to set a die each time. It does take a while to set a die just right.
After that the manuals should explain everything else. Just do it step by step until you get the hang of it. Just remember to follow the manuals because it can get dangerous if you make to big a mistake.


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## BPturkeys (Sep 13, 2007)

Wow, don't you think you guys are getting a little ahead of the game here. Bigboy is an absolute novice, lets get him reloading properly and safely first before we start in on the match grade reloading stuff. Bigboy, buy one good set of dies for each caliber you want to reload. Read the loading manuals provided by one of the bullet makers and follow the instructions EXACTLY! Yes, there are some good resources like youtube out there and use them also, but first off, learn to make good, clean loads that will chamber and extract in your rifle smoothly and show no signs of too much pressure. Start with loads that are aways below max...NEVER START WITH MAX LOADS...and after you have learned to produce CONSISTENT loads, you can then move on to fine tuning your loads for the particular rifle you are using. Remember, the secret to good safe loads is consistency...be exact, be fussy, be clean and neat. Use the same pressure to seat bullets and primers, make the shell the same overall length, weigh your powder charges, etc...if every round is EXACTLY the same they will preform exactly the same, does that make sense? Always reload slow and I recommend you reload along...no kids, no TV, no distractions.


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## Bhilly81 (Oct 18, 2009)

I have a question now. I got everything setup decapped and cleaned but when I started to seat the bullets they wouldn't seat down or crimp tight and the bullet will just slide in and out of the casing a little bit and I can't seem to get them to adjust to crimp tightly. Any thoughts and suggestions please


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## RBoomK (Feb 10, 2011)

bb,
It sounds like your case neck did not get completely resized. What are you using for dies? Full length or neck size only? The bullet should not need a crimp if the neck is properly sized.


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## Loke (Sep 7, 2007)

What caliber are you loading? It sounds like the expander ball is too large for the bullet diameter that you are loading. Not enough neck tension.


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## Bhilly81 (Oct 18, 2009)

I am using the full length dies for the 243 I haven't really gotten to the 270 yet but with the 243 I am so lost at this point I have one shell that the bullet got sucked all the way in and a few others that are loose in the case as well as to short so I am not sure what to try next as I have tried to adjust it the way I read in the manual


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## chet (Sep 7, 2007)

check your dies, they should be stamped "243 win" . They may have been mispackaged.
remove the decapping rod (the stem that screws through the middle of the size die). measure the expander ball, it should be around .242" or so.... it may be too large as was mentioned above (they may have installed a 6.5mm ball at the factory).
and lastly measure your bullets, they may be misboxed as well.

I guess it's possible that you don't have the die screwed down far enough, but you should at least be sizing part of the neck. Is the die touching the shell holder? It's supposed to when full length sizing.

also, there is no need to crimp your 243 loads, run a case up to the top of the press - then screw the seating die down til it touches the case, then un-screw it one full turn. That'll ensure that the neck doesn't get crimped.

note* the main purpose of resizing a case is to reduce neck diameter so that it'll hold a new bullet firmly. Drop a bullet into a fired case and you'll understand, it literally falls right in. On a properly sized case, bullets will be held quite firmly.


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## NHS (Sep 7, 2007)

bb,

If you are willing to make the drive up to Lehi, I would be willing to show you the basics. Let me know and maybe we can set up a time. I'm no expert, but do have some experience.

NHS


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## Bhilly81 (Oct 18, 2009)

So after rereading this thread and the dies instructions I finally have it figured out the die to decap and resize needed a small adjustment. So I threaded the rod in a few more turns and it worked great I just got back from the range and I just shot my first 12 reloads without a problem 

Thanks for all the help and advice next will be the .270 then the .223


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## chet (Sep 7, 2007)

the 243 and 223 are very easy and safe to play with.
the 270 can get dangerous REAL quick. Pay extra attention while loading for it. Learn about pressure signs, and watch for them dillegently.


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## Loke (Sep 7, 2007)

chet said:


> the 243 and 223 are very easy and safe to play with.
> the 270 can get dangerous REAL quick. Pay extra attention while loading for it. Learn about pressure signs, and watch for them dillegently.


Really??? could you explain why?

If you ever have ANY signs of high pressure, you have gone too far. If you ever get the attitude that "My gun is stronger than the rifles they use for pressure testing, and I can load them hotter", or "I can read the pressure signs on a fired case better that the pressure sensors in the lab", quit shooting, and take up a safe hobby like street racing your bullet bike in the rain.


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## BPturkeys (Sep 13, 2007)

Powders come in different shapes. Round, flakes and tubes. Some of the older ammo like 270, 30-06 etc where designed to use the "bulkier" tube type powders and are quite large. How you get in trouble is by using the more compact flake or ball (round) type powders. Some of these more compact powders will not take up much space in the case and you might inadvertently over fill or double fill them creating a VERY dangerous situation. ALWAYS double check...look right down into EACH powder charged case and compare to make sure they are filled to approximately the same level. ALWAYS follow the recommend loads as prescribes by the reloading manual you are using! DuPont IMR powders are nice and bulky and produce good loads in most of the ammo you are reloading.


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## chet (Sep 7, 2007)

well loke, most manuals starting loads for 270win start at around 50, 000 cup. which happens to be close to where 223 and 243 will max out. I've had 2 different 270's that maxed out before that. And in my experience a 270 can make drastic jumps in pressures with minute changes to components. Whereas the other two have become somewhat predictable for me. I have also found that barrel length in the 270 can effect pressures more so than others. Stricktly just my humble opinion of course....

Also, I've got some older manuals that have starting loads for 270 that exceed max loads in more recent manuals. Which means it's a great idea to cross reference info from several manufactures and resources.


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