# Landing Big Fish?



## tye dye twins (Mar 8, 2011)

How do you properly land a BIG fish on the shoreline? I continually get broken off at the knot (bradley knot) at the last second with fish that weigh over 4lbs. I hear it is all about keeping the tension on the line as the fish gets the 1st taste of air. I do have a net so should I even bring it out of the water to land it? If I am alone what should I do? Any advice would be very helpful.

Oh yeah any tips on what's the best way to reel them in would be helpful too (let the bail out/drag settings?), along with advice on how to do all this stuff in a pontoon as well.


----------



## k2muskie (Oct 6, 2007)

Well let the rod do the work and look at possibly upgrading your line or even changing it.

Try to contain the excitement of knowing you have a big fish on...let the rod do the work and have patience. IMHO a net is also needed no matter what the big fish is and be willing to get wet if shore fishing to wade out and net the fish. Folks have landed TM on 4# mono and other low pound while ice/soft fish'n it's letting the rod do the work and the drag set just right. 

We use the improved cinch knot and that is what my Son had when he landed his first Tiger Muskie (no leader). Have yet to have this knot fail and I'm sure others will say the type of knots they use...biggest thing is letting the rod do the work and containing OMG I know it's a big fish excitement...including having the drag set to allow the fish to take line but not spool the reel. Don't horse the fish...rod does the work...bottom line it's all about the rod working, drag set, and playing a big fish...so FWIW my .02 recommendations.


----------



## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

NEVER let them break the surface of the water. Thats the #1 rule I taught my kid and wife. Keep'em in the water... when you see that swivel break the surface back off a little. I also no longer put the boat in neutral when we get a hookup, we troll slow so it keeps added tension on the line. I've upgraded this year to some very nice ultra-light weight poles and fantastic Caimen reels, I am extremely please with how they preform with a big fish on. They absorb alot of shock making it easier to work the fish.

For shore fishing, play the fish further from the shore until its exhausted. They tend to freak out more as they get drawn closer to shore. Play them out in deeper water, and never let them break the waters surface. When tired enough, bring in close and net.

-DallanC


----------



## tye dye twins (Mar 8, 2011)

Hmmm, I still am a little confused on what "let the rod do the work" means. I guess it is easy to show how it is done rather than write how it's done. Maybe I just need to watch some you tube videos. Thanks for the responses, keep them coming.


----------



## LOAH (Sep 29, 2007)

What they're saying is that the rod is flexible for a reason. It will absorb most of the head shakes and it takes a lot of pressure off the line. Kind of like a spring for your fish to pull against.

Letting the rod do the work means to let the fish fight the rod instead of the reel. When you've got a big one on, just hold the rod upright and let it battle around with the tension for a little bit. If it wants to run, then hopefully your drag is set so that you can pull line out with firm pressure, but not so loose that it's easy to strip out.

K2 mentioned the improved cinch knot. Good knot and very easy to tie. A lot of other people use the palomar knot and swear by it. I personally prefer the improved cinch.

Landing the big one is obviously the toughest part. When I'm on a steep shoreline and bending down to grab it just won't work, I'll let some line out and carefully walk the fish to a spot where I can grab it more easily. If it gives a last hoorah battle right at your feet, you can often point them to launch themselves onto the shore.

On a tube, I just use my apron as a net. I'll set it up so that it sags down toward the water and then I'll guide the fish into my lap. If they resist, it's bear hug time.


----------



## Fiction32 (Feb 21, 2011)

As mentioned new line, retying periodically (check a few feet of line above your lure for abrasions after every fish), and lubing your knot with a little spit before tightening. Properly tied knots, quality line, and taking time to keep your line clear of nicks and abrasions is critical (Knowing your fishing lines breaking point by feel will help immensely). Don't be afraid to put your real in reverse when fighting big fish. With practice this can give you more control and help compensate for potential drag failure. Most big fish I've seen lost are lost at the boat or just before landing. There is ALOT less stretch in your mono with only a few feet out versus yards and hooks will more easily pull free. Keep'em below water (rod tip down when they come up to the surface) during the fight. Remember once you've got their head they'll swim where you point'em. As they're coming in try and get there head to surface and keep them coming (this will give you more control). If you can keep them from turning you'll reduce horse play and decrease fish fatigue. Try and be ready to slide them into the shallows, bank, or into a net when they first get to the boat. In my opinion, stalling just before landing a fish creates the ideal time to lose it. Be ready, land them smooth and quick. Enjoy the fight and let the equipment do the work.


----------



## cfarnwide (Sep 10, 2007)

About the only thing I can add to what has already been said...

If possible, do not use a swivel. If your lure does require a swivel to eliminate line twist, use one that is small enough to pass through your rod tip guide. That will allow you to reel the fish in closer to hand instead of beaching it.


----------



## cfarnwide (Sep 10, 2007)

Fiction32 said:


> As mentioned new line, retying periodically (check a few feet of line above your lure for abrasions after every fish), and *lubing your knot with a little spit before tightening*.


Very important IMHO :!:


----------



## svmoose (Feb 28, 2008)

I would just always check your knots. There are a lot of different knots you can use with fishing line. Find the one you like the best and learn how to tie it well - and check your knot, and leader/line up from the knot a few feet after every fish, or at least often. I think what everyone else has said is very important as well. Once you get the control of a fish's head and he starts moving the way you want him to, keep him moving and don't let him get that control back. This leads to much easier netting/beaching.


----------



## LOAH (Sep 29, 2007)

I've noticed people saying to keep the fish below the surface by lowering the rod tip while fighting the fish. Personally, I find that I can keep a hook set much better when I keep a good arc in the rod, pointed up. It's especially useful when the fish decides to go airborne, I think.

The only time I tilt my rod down while in battle is if I need to guide the beast out of a snag zone such as logs, roots, and fences. It seems to work for me, most of the time. 

(FWIW - I love a good aerial display from a big brown or rainbow. Good stuff!)

Maybe you should just try things out until you figure out your preference. Not trying to say that anyone else's methods are wrong because they obviously work for them or they wouldn't recommend them.


----------



## tye dye twins (Mar 8, 2011)

I do keep my rod tip down in order to prevent an arial display. Thanks for the info guys, maybe next time I will land the monster.


----------



## k2muskie (Oct 6, 2007)

Great info and topic...WRT the rod tip...for the fish we primarily fish for we strive to keep the rod tip down and it keeps the fish from totally exploding out of the water...this was a hard habit for us to learn/break keeping the rod tip down...we've lost numerous berthas that became airborne and out comes the lure on the head shake or the fish explodes. So again for rod tip position I believe it all depends on the fish and experience of an angler including the species of the fish. Even with the rod tip down you can still guide the fish once you have control of it's head. For us and fishing for Tiger Muskies the rod tip will always be down with one exception when we are over submerged structure trees/brush. Had numerous Tigers dive into this structure and it's hell get'n them out but can be done.

See attached video link and you'll see what I mean about having the rod tip up and not having proper tackle...you will loose fish. Some of you have probably already seen this video...well worth the re-look as a learning tool on what happens with big fish when the rod tip is up or using improper tackle...boy we've learned a whole lot from those days...


----------



## Riverrat77 (Sep 7, 2007)

Tight lines seem to be the key...whether thats tip up or down. I agree with LOAH that I have good luck tip up until the fish goes airborne and then I just point my rod at the fish and reel like mad to take up slack. Only time I seem lose fish in the air is when the line gets too loose...seems thats when they toss the hook.....hate that. On knots...i use both the Palomar and the improved clinch knot and honestly it seems the Palomar although a little more basic, seems to hold against abrasion and big fish a little better but the improved clinch is what I used for years, I can tie it in the dark by feel and so its still getting used by me. Both work well, its probably just a preference thing. Landing fish...well, I usually try and leave about a rods worth of line between me and the fish...gives me room to guide the fish to the net or my hand or whatever and there is usually enough line out that last minute shakes of their head won't just bust you off.


----------



## cfarnwide (Sep 10, 2007)

tye dye twins said:


> How do you properly land a BIG fish on the shoreline? I continually get broken off at the knot (*bradley knot*)


I cant even remember the last time my knot failed... What exactly is a bradley knot? Never heard of it. Lately for me (on snags at least, hasnt happened on a fish) my terminal gear breaks before the knot.


----------



## flydaddy834 (Sep 11, 2007)

I have found that keeping the fish in the water the whole time is what works best for me. I really try not to handle the fish since 98% go back anyway. Reel in the big one walk backwards 10 feet or so lay the pole down grab your line close to the pool keeping it tight and walk up to the fish that will be at your feet in the water, bend down run the stringer through grab your pliars and presto you have secured dinner or you have successfully released a brute to live and fight another day.


----------



## tye dye twins (Mar 8, 2011)

cfarnwide said:


> tye dye twins said:
> 
> 
> > How do you properly land a BIG fish on the shoreline? I continually get broken off at the knot (*bradley knot*)
> ...


I guess it is the one where you take your line and put atleast 3 twists in the line and pass the tip of the line thru the bottom "hole" that was created and pull tight. Saw it in a fly book and that is what the sign at SW said it was called.

I use the double surgeon knot to tie leaders but I rarely take out that pole.


----------



## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

That is the improved Clinch knot. I use it often and you need at least 5 twists not 3.

http://www.netknots.com/html/improved_clinch_knot.html

-DallanC


----------



## MACMAN (Feb 14, 2011)

I believe that knot will fail if you don't lock it down by passing the tag end through the hole you created by going through the bottom twist. I prefer the uni knot- never broke a knot with that one, and can be tied by feel. The polymer knot may be the strongest due to 2 passes of line on the eyelet.


----------



## Riverrat77 (Sep 7, 2007)

DallanC said:


> That is the improved Clinch knot. I use it often and you need at least 5 twists not 3.
> 
> http://www.netknots.com/html/improved_clinch_knot.html
> 
> -DallanC


Yeah, I go way overkill with that knot and do usually 8 or 9 twists before looping the tag end back through. Makes for a little bigger top end to the knot but its pretty dang strong when I'm done. I usually don't do that moisten with spit stuff.... just because I forget or am in a hurry.


----------



## brfisherman17 (Jan 21, 2011)

Riverrat77 said:


> i use both the Palomar and the improved clinch knot and honestly it seems the Palomar although a little more basic, seems to hold against abrasion and big fish a little better


+1 If the palomar knot is tied right, the line snaps before the knot breaks.


----------



## DallanC (Jan 13, 2009)

The hooks I use are too small for the palomar, otherwise its a great knot.


-DallanC


----------



## Riverrat77 (Sep 7, 2007)

brfisherman17 said:


> Riverrat77 said:
> 
> 
> > i use both the Palomar and the improved clinch knot and honestly it seems the Palomar although a little more basic, seems to hold against abrasion and big fish a little better
> ...


I use it with my braid when I'm catfishing... I'll usually pull up the bottom before the **** line breaks. :evil: Its left me struggling several times to free a snag but its a good knot, never seems to break fish off when they get in snaggy crap.


----------



## drsx (Sep 8, 2010)

Just a side note, i've been fishing for Tiger Muskies a lot lately and just landed my first. But one thing I was told and that I used while catching mine was actually a steel leader. They've got those big sharp teeth so if they chomp down above your bait they can easily cut the line. Not really the advice you're looking for on landing the big ones, just a side note on larger predators with teeth consider using a steel leader


----------

