# Ford Superduty F250 V-10



## Fowlmouth (Oct 4, 2008)

I want to change spark plugs in my truck, but I am hesitant in doing so because of the aluminum heads. It's a 2 valve and not the 3, so I'm not worried about the plug breaking in half. I will get the compressor out and blow air over the plug areas before I start, I will change them when the engine is cold and I will use anti-seize on the threads and dielectric grease in the boots. Anything else I need to be concerned with? Has anyone changed them and how difficult was it? Thanks.8)


----------



## Spry Yellowdog (Sep 8, 2007)

Make sure you get enough torque on the rear plugs that are difficult to get to. There the ones I always see blow out after a plug replacement. Causing a real pain,
needing a thread insert into the head.

Spry


----------



## Rattler (Jul 13, 2014)

My dad is doing a spark plug insert repair on his F-250 right now and it is a beotch! It might be worth it to get a quote from a shop to see what they would charge.


----------



## Fowlmouth (Oct 4, 2008)

The dealer wants $400. I have never had a spark plug blow out of the head, I think they are original plugs. When I bought the truck from the original owner it had 57,000 miles, now it has 100,000. I rarely drive the truck, I only put 600 miles on it last year, and so far this year maybe 300. I do know my gas mileage has decreased over time. It still runs fantastic though. Man oh man that would suck to blow a plug knowing the coil pack and boot are going with it, not to mention the repair on the thread. This is why I am hesitant in doing the plugs myself. If the shop guaranteed their work I would go that route, but I don't believe they will.


----------



## Critter (Mar 20, 2010)

I have never replaced a spark plug on a V10 but from what I have heard you want to do it when the engine is hot. It just makes since to do it then when the heat has caused the aluminum to expand some. You might want to check on a manual for the truck and see if it says anything.


----------



## Fowlmouth (Oct 4, 2008)

Critter said:


> I have never replaced a spark plug on a V10 but from what I have heard you want to do it when the engine is hot. It just makes since to do it then when the heat has caused the aluminum to expand some. You might want to check on a manual for the truck and see if it says anything.


 With aluminum heads you definitely only want to change plugs when the engine is cold.


----------



## Spry Yellowdog (Sep 8, 2007)

I have never seen a OEM Plug blow out thats why I think its a improper torque issue. And its always on the 2 that are a bitch to get to. So take your time and torque to spec. The best way I have found to do the 3 valve plugs is to break them loose a quarter turn then soak overnight with pb blaster or similar so it softens the carbon that has the tip seized. 
Spry


----------



## Fowlmouth (Oct 4, 2008)

I hear those 3 valve plugs run around $200 for 10. Ouch! 
I'm thinking I will replace my plugs with OEM Motorcrafts. ($3 each) I changed the spark plugs on my Jeep last week, it wasn't too bad. It has the coil pack and boot just like my Ford.


----------



## Spry Yellowdog (Sep 8, 2007)

Good call on oem make sure at 3bucks each there dual platinum plugs

Spry


----------



## Huge29 (Sep 17, 2007)

Fowlmouth said:


> I hear those 3 valve plugs run around $200 for 10. Ouch!
> I'm thinking I will replace my plugs with OEM Motorcrafts. ($3 each) I changed the spark plugs on my Jeep last week, it wasn't too bad. It has the coil pack and boot just like my Ford.


 same with the 5.4, eBay has them for about $10 each. Well worth it.


----------



## brookieguy1 (Oct 14, 2008)

Wow. Sounds like one of Ford's great ideas. Lets build a V-10 engine that has aluminum heads so at 100,000 miles it's a major expense and risk to do a simple spark plug change. 
I will admit though, all vehicle brands have a similar manufacturing flaw to increase their revenue. Some sure seem blatantly pre-planned.


----------



## 12many (Apr 14, 2008)

I had a 5.4 L triton in a F-250 that the plug did blow out, this was after I bought the truck and had a total of 50 miles on it what a lemon, Westland ford in Ogden did the hyla coil for 700$ when this happened so just a little FYI


----------



## stuckduck (Jan 31, 2008)

12many said:


> I had a 5.4 L triton in a F-250 that the plug did blow out, this was after I bought the truck and had a total of 50 miles on it what a lemon, Westland ford in Ogden did the hyla coil for 700$ when this happened so just a little FYI


700 bucks.... Wow.... An hours labor and the cost of the hyla coil and if it needs an ignition coil is what it costs in my shop. Good to see for go away from the thee valve plug design.. I can't stand Ford. Much rather work on a Chevy any day.


----------



## Fowlmouth (Oct 4, 2008)

Update.......Well after almost a year of procrastinating I decided it was time to get dirty. I pulled the COP's off, sprayed PB Blaster in the head and soaked the plugs overnight. Got up this morning and blew all the crap out of the heads with compressed air, then loosened all spark plugs with ease. Some of them were very loose and didn't take much effort with the ratchet. The passenger side was definitely more tricky with all the hoses and cables, but after a few cuss words and removing some wires and hoses I was able to get to the back plugs and get them out. I used anti-seize on all new plugs and dielectric grease on all the rubber boots, and torqued the new plugs at 15 ft lbs. It all went back together fairly smooth. My truck has a 6.5" lift and this made the job more difficult because I had to stand on a 2 foot step stool while bending over the whole time. Anyway it is done, the truck runs excellent with a noticeable difference in power and throttle response, and hopefully a gas mileage increase. The old plugs were the originals with 101,000 miles on the truck now. Total time was around 6 hours to complete. Saved $375.


----------



## wyogoob (Sep 7, 2007)

I have a F250 V10 and love it! It's only got 45k miles; new for a Ford.

I'm a metals guy, so IMHO you should install threaded metal parts in aluminum castings at the same temperature as you removed the parts.

So I'm thinkin' change plugs with a cold engine; you can't run the engine to warm it up if the plugs are out so the motor will be cold when put the plugs back in.

I have no idea what the owner's manual says about changing plugs. I didn't know ya had to change spark plugs in a Ford anymore. ;-)



uh...it's "heli-coil", not "hyla coil"

.


----------



## Fowlmouth (Oct 4, 2008)

Here's the aftermath.......


----------



## stuckduck (Jan 31, 2008)

Fowlmouth said:


> Here's the aftermath.......


That's the old design I have never had one of that type break a plug. 
I have had ALOT pull the threads and get blown out.. usually breaks the coil... not to hard of a fix with an insert. funny thing is its always the back ones that break out... must be more heat because of the cab forward design.

A pic of the 3 valve plug type.. just the beginning of the issues with that motor...


I personally have gone away from using anti-seize on plug threads... as I have had a few come back being loose. but to each there own...


----------



## stuckduck (Jan 31, 2008)

Fowlmouth said:


> My truck has a 6.5" lift and this made the job more difficult because I had to stand on a 2 foot step stool while bending over the whole time. Total time was around 6 hours to complete. Saved $375.


Next time take the front tires off and set the front end down on the ground... makes a heck of a lot easier to get access to the engine bay... labor time is around 3 hours for the job.. a few more and you will make flat rate...


----------



## Fowlmouth (Oct 4, 2008)

stuckduck said:


> Next time take the front tires off and set the front end down on the ground... makes a heck of a lot easier to get access to the engine bay... labor time is around 3 hours for the job.. a few more and you will make flat rate...


 It wasn't too bad using a step stool, but if I did this all the time I would definitely pull the wheels. Knowing what I know now I'm sure it will be quicker next time. I was debating using anti-seize on the threads, everything I read had very mixed opinions about using it. Some guys were all for using it and others said no way. I torqued the plugs to 15 lbs. and plan on checking them again. Some of the original plugs were very loose. I'm really surprised at how well the truck performs now with just a plug change.


----------



## stuckduck (Jan 31, 2008)

Do your self a favor and go buy a few Ignition Coils... keep them on hand you are at the threshold of them starting to fail...


----------

