Recommended equipment

[kochanut]

when it comes to rods, to each their own, but im Helios all the way.

[Fleigenbinder]

When my clients or students ask me this question, I usually ask a bit about their budget. If they are budget conscious, here is what I recommend.

Rod: You can get a decent rod for $100-$200. Either the budget versions of some of the bigger names or Something like a St Croix, Reddington or TFO.

Here is the thing about rods: You can easily spend $700-$1000 for a Fly Rod and you do not necessarily get a rod seven to ten times better. You get an incremental increase in performance for a non-incremental price. The warrenty from the manufacturer is much more important than probably anything else - make sure you check that out.

Reel: Pfluger Medalist. Around $30.00 just remenber to lock-tite all the screws before fishing.

Line: Look for the stuff on sale that is rated for your rod. Be sure to check out some of the private label lines some of those are excellent at a reduced price.

Leaders: This is the one area where you dont really want to scrimp. Buy something good!


Tippit: Purchase some 200 yard + spools of 2,4,6 and 8 lb. It is the same stuff as the 30 yard spools, last much longer and cost far less.

Flies - shop around, tie your own or make friends with someone who is a obsessive fly-tier! If you know one, please send me his email - I would like to become his/her very best friend!

Sincerely


Fenwick Fleigenbinder

[Pez Gallo]

IMHO fly rods are like golf clubs. Once you get a nice one it is how the feel in your hand and to you. There are several GREAT rod makers out there. You might guess who I am partial to...

Great comment. I feel the same, but I go a little further. There are dozens of great rodmakers out there, but each company will have certain rods that just seem to "sing out" while you use them.

To continue with the golf club analogy, your favorite 7 iron might be made by Ping, your favorite 5 iron might be a calloway, and your favorite putter might be some off brand.

[flyguy7]

I had someone ask me as a guide what I recommend for gear. check out my blog at http://www.utahproflyfishing.com to see what I came up with or here it is:

1. Fly Rod (SAGE) - Sage is the top of the line, if you don't want to spend that much, not a big deal, upgrade when you are commited. The main thing you need to know is that if you are going to be fishing the Provo River, Green River, or Weber Rivers, you should buy a 9 foot 5 weight Rod in either 2 pieces or 4 pieces (depending on if you plan on backbacking/traveling with it).

2. Reel (Orvis) - I love the Battenkill mid arbor fly reels, I use them for guiding, they are inexpensive, easy to use and an all around great product. They are $139 for the ones that fit a 5 weight line.

3. Fly Line - As long as you get the right weight to match your Rod you will be good to go. I prefer RIO and SCIENTIFIC ANGLER Fly Lines.

4. Leader - Always go with RIO -For the Weber/Provo you should buy fluoroflex "9 foot 5x leader" - I trust that they deliver quality leader. Having quality leader is a must, this is the part that can break when you get huge fish on, so choose wisely by picking RIO.

5. Tippet - RIO also makes great Tippet. I use their fluoroflex plus tippet. This is similar to buying Leader except you can buy many sizes to "piece" together a leader. I have tippet sizes 1x-6x. RIO has a cool spool system that connects multiple spools together for easy use. 1x is very thick and 6x is very thin. using 1 1/2 feet of each will create a home built Leader for you. Tippet is great to add on to the leader so you don't have to always buy new leaders.

6. Flies - I used to work at RAINY'S FLIES. They offer priemium grade flies from thailand. They are a great company and there flies can be found at most local fly shops. If you are going to be fishing the provo, buy SOW BUGS. If you are going to be fishing the Weber buy SCUDS. If you need recommendations on what to buy and from what stores shoot me an e-mail at justin@utahproflyfishing.com I would love to help.

...More to Come.

7. Fly Box

8. Vest/pack

9. Waders

10. Wading Boots

11. Tools

12. Weights

1. Rods- Sage does make a great rod but high rod selection is a matter of personal preference and what suits your casting style. Whether you chose Orvis, Sage, Winston, Scott, or Loomis, you are going to be getting a fine fly rod. Sage generally makes faster action rods so if you are someone that has a more relaxed, deliberate casting stroke, it may not be the best choice. I have always preferred Scott rods, although as others have stated my current favorite rod is the Orvis Helios. As far as bang for the buck, Echos are tough to beat. IMHO, they cast circles around the TFOs.

2. Reels- I agree about the mid arbor. Its a good solid reel, but construction wise, no different than the Plueger trion, Cabelas RLS, Redington Rise, or The Fly Shop's L2a. I have yet to see a reel more mechanically sound (simple) and bombproof than Ross.

3. Fly Line- Totally untrue. Not all fly lines are the same. Take Rio for example. The selective trout lines have a longer, delicate front taper that works well for presenting dries on medium to softer action rods. Comparable to the XPS series offered by scientific anglers. The Rio Grand, on the other hand had a very short, heavy front taper that is designed for turning over big streamers, heavy nymph rigs, and big foam stones and hoppers. Better suited for fast action rods. It is actually one half line size heavier, so a 5 weight is actualy a 5.5 weight. Comparable to the GPX from Scientific anglers. Not all 5 weight lines are created equal. Take two reels: one loaded with a 5 wt Rio grand and another loaded with a Rio selective trout 5wt. They are going to feel substiantially different from one another if thrown on the same rod; even though they are the same line weight from the same company.

4. Leader- I agree 100% about Rio. They are a great company and make a great product. I do think fluorocarbon is totally unnecessary.

5. Tippet- Same as leader. Starting off your leader with 1X will work fine of you are nymphing because turnover is not an issue. If you start off a leader with 1X for dry fly fishing you are going to have big problems. First issue is the material. Good leader butt and mid sections need to be constructed of a very stiff material such as Maxima or specific butt material. Generic tippet off of the spool is far too supple to use for leader mid-sections and butts. Your leader is going to land in a tangled mess of tippet. Second problem, 1x is far too fine to use for a leader butt section. Compared to say, 6X, yea, its thick; but not NEARLY thick enough to be used for a butt section of a leader. The ideal butt section diameter for most line sizes for trout fishing is between .020" and .023". 1X has a diameter of .010".That means that if you use 1x tippet for your leader it is 50% more limp than it should be for good turnover, and at least 100% too thin so it will not effectively transfer the energy from the line into the leader.

Im not trying to come off as a jerk and shoot down and contradict your info, but if you are going to start a topic (starting and replying are two different things) trying to give beginning fly fishermen advice and knowledge, then that advice and knowledge should be 100% correct. Some of these "adjustments" I made are subjective and opinion (as in the case with fluorocarbon), but most ARE facts, NOT opinions.

[wyogoob]

Fly fishing should be fun, not complicated....although I can't wait for the banter on the next six equipment sections, especially #9 Waders.

When you boys get done with the first 12, I am going to add another one, #13 Bobbers....ah.....or what many of you call "strike indicators."


I once wrote a Patrick F. McManus-like brief about putting Prozac in fly floatant. I'll see if I can dig it out, have it ready.

[kochanut]

Fly fishing should be fun, not complicated....although I can't wait for the banter on the next six equipment sections, especially #9 Waders.

i'll bite.... why spend 700 bucks (i think thats the price) for Simms Waders? yes you get the name and reputation of Simms, but damn near the exact wader can be bought at Cabelas for 200 bucks.... besides the layout of the chest, the only differance is that mine say Cabelas on them, they are tough, lightweight, and get the job done while saving me a few hundred bucks.

when it comes to boots however i go Simms all the way.... i have the G3 with the river shed bottoms... reason, i hate felt, and even though it might not be making a HUGE differance, i like to do my part in stopping invasive speices (im not trying to start an argument here, i already know about the drain holes, gators, etc... im talking boot bottoms and nothing else). the boots are sturdy, well built, and i dont feel like i have spent time in a turkish prison after walking/wading around in them all day. now i am a bit biased, the only other pair of wading boots i have owned were 1. a pair of felt sole boots and 2. a pair of rubber sole boots bass pro shops no longer makes (shame).

[phantom]

wyogoob wrote

When you boys get done with the first 12, I am going to add another one, #13 Bobbers....ah.....or what many of you call "strike indicators."

They're only bobbers if you have live bait underneath. Otherwise, its a much more complicated and esoteric setup

[wyogoob]

Fly fishing should be fun, not complicated....although I can't wait for the banter on the next six equipment sections, especially #9 Waders.

i'll bite.... why spend 700 bucks (i think thats the price) for Simms Waders? yes you get the name and reputation of Simms, but damn near the exact wader can be bought at Cabelas for 200 bucks.... besides the layout of the chest, the only differance is that mine say Cabelas on them, they are tough, lightweight, and get the job done while saving me a few hundred bucks.
......................................................................................................quote]


$700 for a pair of waders!! That's crazy. Most of the cars I owned cost less than $700! Elitist snobs....and just because ya spend that kinda money on a pair of waders doesn't mean you'll catch big fish. Good grief

More later.

[wyogoob]

wyogoob wrote

When you boys get done with the first 12, I am going to add another one, #13 Bobbers....ah.....or what many of you call "strike indicators."

They're only bobbers if you have live bait underneath. Otherwise, its a much more complicated and esoteric setup

"esoteric setup" really?

[scientificangler]

I know I'm a little late to the party but I LOVE the Helios.